All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Apron > Central Apron

Born Again

Name: Born Again
Rating: 3.6

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Central Apron

L › R R › L A › Z

	Born Again T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Read Between the Lines T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Unfinished Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade II
FA:	p1,2, 4&5 partial, 7, and FCFA Kris Wild, Fraser Young, Phil Bonham, May 2020 p3, 4&5 partial, 6, Gordon Smaill & Squamish Hardcore, 1971 (Bloodlust)
Page Views:	6,604 total · 126/month
Shared By:	KrisW on May 19, 2020
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

130 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 Details

For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…

The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.

––––––––––

TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE

Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.

Posted April 17, 2023

––––––––––

Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.

NORTH WALL CLOSURE

The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.

Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

Updated June 30, 2023

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

This route combines sections of older, under-appreciated climbs with new pitches to create the best protected 5.10 on the Apron. Begin 20m right of Snake at the low-point of the approach trail heading towards Diedre.

5.8, 35m Ascend the slab past several bolts and discontinuous crack features to a ledge on the right.
5.9, 30m Thin moves with close bolts leads to easy rambling and a station 10m above the large ledge. The old station out left on the ledge is the top of P1 of Dream On.
5.9, 45m Step right into the thin corner and follow it all the way to the top. A few face moves to the left take you to the anchor. Many nut and small cam placements.
10b, 25m Past an old chain station at the top of the corner, and horizontally out right across the slab. You will be crossing Dancing in the Light at your 4th bolt. Continue right to the base of a crack system. (Bloodlust Direct comes straight up to this station from below)
10a, 30m Up intermittent cracks until forced to step right around the arete into flakes on the sidewall of the Diedre corner. Up these for several metres, then back left past two bolts into the next crack system. You may need to give climbers on Diedre space when in the close section. Belay at the large ledge with a cedar tree. (Stepping left at the end of the initial crack to old bolts is the crux of Bloodlust, 5.11b)
5.9, 35m The splitter hands-to-fingers corner, and face crack above. Begin on the right behind the tree.
5.9, 50m Step right into a scoop, and follow the blunt arete to a station just below a ramp leading to Broadway ledge

Descent: Probably wise to keep the rope on to get up onto Broadway, then down right to the top of Diedre. 40m 4th class. Standard Apron descent to the South.

Location

Approach via the regular Apron approach trail for the Central Apron routes. 30m after climbing the V-groove past the start of Snake, the route begins at the low-point of the trail, before it goes up to Diedre, Banana Peel, etc.