Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Jim Baldwin, Tony Cousins 1961
Page Views: 1,558 total, 30/month
Shared By: Aaron Nash on Sep 4, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Begin from below the trail that leads up to the start of Diedre and others, or begin as per the 5.6 traverse to Banana Peel, but keep going until you see the two bolt anchor.

From here, climb up to where the slab bulges, clip three bolts and find the next anchor to the right. (5.9)

From this belay, climb left, clipping a bolt, towards a deep water runnel. Follow up the runnel until you reach a tree to belay at.

From the tree belay, continue up more slab and runnels, clipping a few bolts along the way to a bolted anchor.

Last pitch; run it straight to the trees below Boomstick Crack. A few bolts for protection.

Descent: Walk off via the Broadway Ledge descent trail, or continue climbing on routes on the upper apron to the buttress.

Location

Climbers right of Banana Peel.

Protection

No more than 6 bolts per pitch. Take some bigger gear (3,4) for the traverse over on the first pitch if you're uncomfortable.

Photos

As Serge notes below, the route description is inaccurate. Slab Alley has an independent start, and finish - so allowing one to avoid herds elsewhere. See the description in Squamish Select (2012 - page 157) for details. It would also not be accurate to use the word "sport" (as in "sport climbing") in relation to this climb.

Also, on the fourth pitch, the traverse above the elephant steps, one can either go up the 'steps' once reached, or continue up and left for a few more metres to a moderate crack that leads up and right, to the top of the 'steps'. Jan 8, 2017
A fast route - most of the climbing is 5- with protection spaced 20-30 meters, a lot of it is walking.

The start described on this page (traverse right from Diedre) appears to be blocked by a tree.

The original start (described in Bourdon - via 3 wooden powerline poles) really is clean, and those first 2 pitches are arguably the most interesting climbing on the route.

P1 (original start) has one 5.8 move - getting to the bolt. The bolt appears better placed for protecting the 2nd than the leader, though the leader has some protection from a previous piece.

P2 (original start) has a 5.9 slab move protected by a bolt at knee level.

The rest is mostly walking / waiting for your belayer to subdue the rope.

A 2" cam (or larger) is useful for protecting P1. P2 can easily use doubles in finger-sized cams. Somewhere on one of the last 4 pitches I placed a medium cam. No pitch had more than 5 bolts IIRC. Aug 7, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
I think it's worth noting that the original start is way over to the right and way below the Dierde ledge. It fell out of favor for being overgrown but has been cleaned and has 2 good pitches of climbing getting up to the horizontal crack of Banana Peel.If you skip these you are missing 2 of the best pitches other then the elephant steps which is a cool feature.
Some very interesting reading here: squamishclimbing.com/squami… Feb 8, 2014