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Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob Woodsworth, Ashlyn Armour Brown 1962
Page Views: 1,266 total, 16/month
Shared By: Dan Petty on Jul 30, 2011 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

p1 (5.7) - Climb the first pitch of Diedre to the bolted anchor (slab and jugs).

p2 (5.7) - From the anchor move up and right towards the large tree into a slab corner that arches to the right (slab and irregular finger crack) and build a gear belay near the tree growing out of the crack.

p3 (5.9) - Pull over the small roof around a small tree growing in the crack and move up and right before traversing back left along a crack towards a large boulder on the ledge above. DO NOT go as far as the bolt on over the rainbow. As the crack disappears tricky slab moves lead up to the ledge (crux) for a tree belay.

p4-5 (5.7) - Walk as far left and up on the ledge as possible and climb the right-facing corner in two pitches (gear anchor) to a horizontal crack under a small roof and traverse to the right.

Location

Start at Diedre and move right at first pitch anchors, staying left of the bolted slab line, Over the Rainbow.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 2".

Photos

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Kate Lynn
Vancouver, BC
 
Kate Lynn   Vancouver, BC  
 
Pitch 2 & 3 can be linked with 70m, however this leads to significant rope drag on the crux moves. Sep 23, 2016
No need to wait in line on Diedre - it is fairly easy to move over to Sickle after P1 of Over The Rainbow. Aug 28, 2016
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
After P3 (the short 5.9 pitch), move left on the ledge and clamber up the dirt clods and loose rocks (careful!). Don't build an anchor on one of the trees (I did)---keep going up through the bushes to where the dihedral begins, and there is a bolted anchor around eye level (not equipped for rap).

From the bolted anchor to the finish ledge is two full 60m pitches. If you build an anchor too low (on the trees instead of the bolts) and are using a 60m rope, you may have to do a third mini pitch or simul a bit to get up to the ledge.

Also, agreed that it's dirty, but the 5.7 arch pitch is pretty cool. Aug 12, 2016
Ashort
Las Vegas, NV
Ashort   Las Vegas, NV
The arching corner is fun, but that's about it. A lot of dirty climbing for one good pitch. May 5, 2015