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Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Terry Rollerson, George Loset, 1970
Page Views: 336 total · 6/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Feb 7, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Edit]

If you have done Over the Rainbow this older classic slab route is worth a try. You are guessing correctly that since it was done in 1970 it is sparsely bolted.

P1. Start same as Diedre and Rainbow, where you pass the horizontal crack Over the Rainbow goes straight up the greasy slab, Sparrow goes a bit more to the right and follows the path of least resistance up ramp like right traverse heading for a lonely bolt, clip and head for a small tree about level with the bolted belay of Rainbow on a faint horizontal dyke.

P2. About 40-50' above belay head left toward small trees( if you go up slab it is a run-out 10b variation) cross several overlaps angle back right toward big tree island and left facing corner.

P3. Either go straight up using water pockets, or descend corner( original route) maybe 20' till you can go up obvious crack which peters out to a tricky slippery slab move up to big tree covered ledge.

P4. It can be confusing here which bolted line to follow. If you took the original route below it is the first line of bolts you come to going up the ledge to your left, but maybe hard to spot bolts. The 2nd bolt line is the Delicious Dimples ( 10c) with more newer bolts. If you go all the way to your left you will hit the Over the Rainbow bolts.

P5. Wander up slab passing 2 bolts in like 100', going back and forth following path of least resistance till you see some crescent cracks but belay below on bolt and gear.

P6. Traverse left till you come to a good crack on right facing corner passing the Dimples route, if you find yourself going up a steep slab you may be on Dimples( 10c). Go up this crack, as it peters out go out onto slab on the left, go up slab till you can belay on bolts below a left facing corner. McLane calls this pitch 10a, Bourdon calls it 5.8, I guess I would say it is 5.9.

P7. Follow corner up and go right out onto white slab , comes out near base of Boomstick crack.

Location [Edit]

Large tree ledge where Diedre starts.A good approach that will get you warmed up for slabs would be the Bottom Line, 5.8 , 3 pitch starting right of the apron connector trail.

Protection [Edit]

standard rack to 2".Lots of slings even for bolts to help with wandering nature of the route.

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