Avg: 2.3 from 21 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 7 pitches|
|FA:||Terry Rollerson, George Loset, 1970|
|Page Views:||1,204 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||geoff georges on Feb 7, 2014|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
P1. Start same as Diedre and Rainbow, where you pass the horizontal crack Over the Rainbow goes straight up the greasy slab, Sparrow goes a bit more to the right and follows the path of least resistance up ramp like right traverse heading for a lonely bolt, clip and head for a small tree about level with the bolted belay of Rainbow on a faint horizontal dyke.
P2. About 40-50' above belay head left toward small trees( if you go up slab it is a run-out 10b variation) cross several overlaps angle back right toward big tree island and left facing corner.
P3. Either go straight up using water pockets, or descend corner( original route) maybe 20' till you can go up obvious crack which peters out to a tricky slippery slab move up to big tree covered ledge.
P4. It can be confusing here which bolted line to follow. If you took the original route below it is the first line of bolts you come to going up the ledge to your left, but maybe hard to spot bolts. The 2nd bolt line is the Delicious Dimples ( 10c) with more newer bolts. If you go all the way to your left you will hit the Over the Rainbow bolts.
P5. Wander up slab passing 2 bolts in like 100', going back and forth following path of least resistance till you see some crescent cracks but belay below on bolt and gear.
P6. Traverse left till you come to a good crack on right facing corner passing the Dimples route, if you find yourself going up a steep slab you may be on Dimples( 10c). Go up this crack, as it peters out go out onto slab on the left, go up slab till you can belay on bolts below a left facing corner. McLane calls this pitch 10a, Bourdon calls it 5.8, I guess I would say it is 5.9.
P7. Follow corner up and go right out onto white slab , comes out near base of Boomstick crack.