Sparrow
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.68635, -123.1474 |
| FA: | Terry Rollerson, George Loset, 1970 |
| Page Views: | 2,548 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Feb 7, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
If you have done Over the Rainbow this older classic slab route is worth a try. You are guessing correctly that since it was done in 1970 it is sparsely bolted.
P1. Start same as Diedre and Rainbow, where you pass the horizontal crack Over the Rainbow goes straight up the greasy slab, Sparrow goes a bit more to the right and follows the path of least resistance up ramp like right traverse heading for a lonely bolt, clip and head for a small tree about level with the bolted belay of Rainbow on a faint horizontal dyke.
P2. About 40-50' above belay head left toward small trees( if you go up slab it is a run-out 10b variation) cross several overlaps angle back right toward big tree island and left facing corner.
P3. Either go straight up using water pockets, or descend corner( original route) maybe 20' till you can go up obvious crack which peters out to a tricky slippery slab move up to big tree covered ledge.
P4. It can be confusing here which bolted line to follow. If you took the original route below it is the first line of bolts you come to going up the ledge to your left, but maybe hard to spot bolts. The 2nd bolt line is the Delicious Dimples ( 10c) with more newer bolts. If you go all the way to your left you will hit the Over the Rainbow bolts.
P5. Wander up slab passing 2 bolts in like 100', going back and forth following path of least resistance till you see some crescent cracks but belay below on bolt and gear.
P6. Traverse left till you come to a good crack on right facing corner passing the Dimples route, if you find yourself going up a steep slab you may be on Dimples( 10c). Go up this crack, as it peters out go out onto slab on the left, go up slab till you can belay on bolts below a left facing corner. McLane calls this pitch 10a, Bourdon calls it 5.8, I guess I would say it is 5.9.
P7. Follow corner up and go right out onto white slab , comes out near base of Boomstick crack.



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