Type: Trad, Sport, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Robin Barley,Judy Komori, Nick Watts, 2003
Page Views: 3,024 total · 46/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Feb 8, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Mostly a slab climb, mostly harder than Over the Rainbow, mostly well bolted, most likely empty of other climbers.
There are 3 cruxes encountered, first being the first pitch 10b slab moves are slippery with some nubbins to find. The 2nd is the perplexing steep 10c slab moves on pitch 2. The 3rd is on pitch 4 with some more steep slippery slab moves 10c.That said none of it is harder then 10b slabs in Leavenworth, or 5.9 slabs in Yosemite, and much better protected.

P1: At the right end of the giant slab where Dierde, Banana Peel and Over the Rainbow are, but steep enough to warrant a few bolts, pass the tree ledge and belay at next ledge. A tree or maybe bolts for anchor.

P2: Head for depression runnel with bolts ( crux) and then straight up passing over Sparrow and either belay here or a bit further on the big ledge with trees.

P3: If you used the lower belay, move the belay up to the ledge because this pitch is like 40-50 meters. A straight up bolt line on a steep tricky slab.

P4: Starts just below a series of overlaps with vegetation, but you will stay on the slab following bolts (2nd crux) up a slippery slab with a few features to desperately find. Also a long 50 m. pitch.

P5: Mostly 5.7 slab up to Broadway ledge.

Location

You will find the start where the trail from the Bottom Line ( a great approach route) comes up to the tree covered ledge of the start for Diedre.

Protection

McLane calls this a sport route, I think you would be brave to not bring some gear as well. There will not be many places for gear except on the upper end of pitch 2 where it crosses Sparrow, and on the start of pitch 4. Bolted and tree anchors.

Photos