All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > The Apron
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples
Avg: 2.9 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 600 ft, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Robin Barley,Judy Komori, Nick Watts, 2003|
|Page Views:||1,872 total · 39/month|
|Shared By:||geoff georges on Feb 8, 2014|
|Admins:||Kate Lynn, Nate Ball|
DescriptionMostly a slab climb, mostly harder than Over the Rainbow, mostly well bolted, most likely empty of other climbers.
There are 3 cruxes encountered, first being the first pitch 10b slab moves are slippery with some nubbins to find. The 2nd is the perplexing steep 10c slab moves on pitch 2. The 3rd is on pitch 4 with some more steep slippery slab moves 10c.That said none of it is harder then 10b slabs in Leavenworth, or 5.9 slabs in Yosemite, and much better protected.
P1: At the right end of the giant slab where Dierde, Banana Peel and Over the Rainbow are, but steep enough to warrant a few bolts, pass the tree ledge and belay at next ledge. A tree or maybe bolts for anchor.
P2: Head for depression runnel with bolts ( crux) and then straight up passing over Sparrow and either belay here or a bit further on the big ledge with trees.
P3: If you used the lower belay, move the belay up to the ledge because this pitch is like 40-50 meters. A straight up bolt line on a steep tricky slab.
P4: Starts just below a series of overlaps with vegetation, but you will stay on the slab following bolts (2nd crux) up a slippery slab with a few features to desperately find. Also a long 50 m. pitch.
P5: Mostly 5.7 slab up to Broadway ledge.