Avg: 3.2 from 43 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Robin Barley,Judy Komori, Nick Watts, 2003|
|Page Views:||4,359 total · 53/month|
|Shared By:||geoff georges on Feb 8, 2014|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
There are 3 cruxes encountered, first being the first pitch 10b slab moves are slippery with some nubbins to find. The 2nd is the perplexing steep 10c slab moves on pitch 2. The 3rd is on pitch 4 with some more steep slippery slab moves 10c.That said none of it is harder then 10b slabs in Leavenworth, or 5.9 slabs in Yosemite, and much better protected.
P1: At the right end of the giant slab where Dierde, Banana Peel and Over the Rainbow are, but steep enough to warrant a few bolts, pass the tree ledge and belay at next ledge. A tree or maybe bolts for anchor.
P2: Head for depression runnel with bolts ( crux) and then straight up passing over Sparrow and either belay here or a bit further on the big ledge with trees.
P3: If you used the lower belay, move the belay up to the ledge because this pitch is like 40-50 meters. A straight up bolt line on a steep tricky slab.
P4: Starts just below a series of overlaps with vegetation, but you will stay on the slab following bolts (2nd crux) up a slippery slab with a few features to desperately find. Also a long 50 m. pitch.
P5: Mostly 5.7 slab up to Broadway ledge.