Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: P1-P3: Kris Wild, Fern Webb (2017); p4 + p5: Robin Barley & Carl Austrum (1977); last section of P5: Kris Wild (2019)
Page Views: 805 total · 471/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on May 6, 2019
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Fun new route up the Apron, a mixture of previously hidden/undiscovered cracks and sections of Anxiety State.

P1: Start just off the granite ramp up to Snake, following the fingers-to-hands splitter to a treed ledge and bolted anchors on an arete. 45m, 5.7. This ledge is where the first anchor typically is for Snake if you rope-up for the initial scramble before the corner crack.

P2: Continue up this splitter crack system through easy climbing to a narrowing finger crack. The crack eventually evaporates, clip a bolt and slab your way to a bolted belay. 45m, 5.8.

P3: Short section climbing up features in a broken crack, traversing right into Anxiety State. 10m, 5.5.

P4: Very fun lieback up a right-facing corner crack that starts wide and narrows to fingers. Very casual, but if 5.8 is your limit you may want a #4 for the beginning (this is definitely not necessary though.) 5.7, 40m. (I recommend linking p3+p4 if you're not placing much gear).

Many people rappel from here, making it a fun and chill 5.8 outing.

P5: While the climbing feels casual until this point, it definitely begins to feel a little more wild if you continue. This pitch is classic Apron slammed-shut corner climbing on slabby feet, with 5 bolts to make you feel more comfy. Climb a right-facing corner system, clip a bolt, continue left up a low-angle face with good holds past 2 bolts, then mantle into another right-facing corner system. The challenges of thin fingers and slabby feet continue as you climb right up an arch past 2 more bolts, then downclimb a few moves to a hidden set of chains. 30m, 10-.

Rappel from here, making sure to rappel past the last belay station to a rap station on the face. Three more raps get you to the ground. You can rap with a 60m, but there are some rope-stretching raps so be sure to tie knots.

Squamish Climbing Magazine Article

Gripped Article

Location

Take the trail through the forest from the Apron parking lot as for Snake, but when you leave the forest to scramble up that ramp, just stop and start climbing the appealing splitter instead.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos