Avg: 3.4 from 45 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||P1-P3: Kris Wild, Fern Webb (2017); p4 + p5: Robin Barley & Carl Austrum (1977); last section of P5: Kris Wild (2019)|
|Page Views:||3,562 total · 211/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Roberts on May 6, 2019|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
P1: Start just off the granite ramp up to Snake, following the fingers-to-hands splitter to a treed ledge and bolted anchors on an arete. 45m, 5.7. This ledge is where the first anchor typically is for Snake if you rope-up for the initial scramble before the corner crack.
P2: Continue up this splitter crack system through easy climbing to a narrowing finger crack. The crack eventually evaporates, clip a bolt and slab your way to a bolted belay. 45m, 5.8.
P3: Short section climbing up features in a broken crack, traversing right into Anxiety State. 10m, 5.5.
P4: Very fun lieback up a right-facing corner crack that starts wide and narrows to fingers. Very casual, but if 5.8 is your limit you may want a #4 for the beginning (this is definitely not necessary though.) 5.7, 40m. (I recommend linking p3+p4 if you're not placing much gear).
Many people rappel from here, making it a fun and chill 5.8 outing.
P5: While the climbing feels casual until this point, it definitely begins to feel a little more wild if you continue. This pitch is classic Apron slammed-shut corner climbing on slabby feet, with 5 bolts to make you feel more comfy. Climb a right-facing corner system, clip a bolt, continue left up a low-angle face with good holds past 2 bolts, then mantle into another right-facing corner system. The challenges of thin fingers and slabby feet continue as you climb right up an arch past 2 more bolts, then downclimb a few moves to a hidden set of chains. 30m, 10-.
Rappel from here, making sure to rappel past the last belay station to a rap station on the face. Three more raps get you to the ground. You can rap with a 60m, but there are some rope-stretching raps so be sure to tie knots.
Squamish Climbing Magazine Article