Avg: 3.4 from 56 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||P1-P3: Kris Wild, Fern Webb (2017); p4 + p5: Robin Barley & Carl Austrum (1977); last section of P5: Kris Wild (2019)|
|Page Views:||5,302 total · 182/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Roberts on May 6, 2019|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. These closures will be updates as more assessments are completed.
Grand Wall Closure Area
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack), the Undertow bouldering area and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Bouldering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Western Dihedrals Closure Area
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Closure map to be posted shortly.
Slhanay Closure Area
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
P1: Start just off the granite ramp up to Snake, following the fingers-to-hands splitter to a treed ledge and bolted anchors on an arete. 45m, 5.7. This ledge is where the first anchor typically is for Snake if you rope-up for the initial scramble before the corner crack.
P2: Continue up this splitter crack system through easy climbing to a narrowing finger crack. The crack eventually evaporates, clip a bolt and slab your way to a bolted belay. 45m, 5.8.
P3: Short section climbing up features in a broken crack, traversing right into Anxiety State. 10m, 5.5.
P4: Very fun lieback up a right-facing corner crack that starts wide and narrows to fingers. Very casual, but if 5.8 is your limit you may want a #4 for the beginning (this is definitely not necessary though.) 5.7, 40m. (I recommend linking p3+p4 if you're not placing much gear).
Many people rappel from here, making it a fun and chill 5.8 outing.
P5: While the climbing feels casual until this point, it definitely begins to feel a little more wild if you continue. This pitch is classic Apron slammed-shut corner climbing on slabby feet, with 5 bolts to make you feel more comfy. Climb a right-facing corner system, clip a bolt, continue left up a low-angle face with good holds past 2 bolts, then mantle into another right-facing corner system. The challenges of thin fingers and slabby feet continue as you climb right up an arch past 2 more bolts, then downclimb a few moves to a hidden set of chains. 30m, 10-.
Rappel from here, making sure to rappel past the last belay station to a rap station on the face. Three more raps get you to the ground. You can rap with a 60m, but there are some rope-stretching raps so be sure to tie knots.
Squamish Climbing Magazine Article