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Read Between the Lines
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 142
votes
Routes in Central Apron
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Born Again T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Read Between the Lines T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unfinished Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.68738, -123.14652 |
| FA: | P1-P3: Kris Wild, Fern Webb (2017); p4 + p5: Robin Barley & Carl Austrum (1977); last section of P5: Kris Wild (2019) |
| Page Views: | 9,478 total · 117/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Roberts on May 6, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Fun new route up the Apron, a mixture of previously hidden/undiscovered cracks and sections of Anxiety State.
P1: Start just off the granite ramp up to Snake, following the fingers-to-hands splitter to a treed ledge. Since the bolted anchors are no longer there (due to a tree falling over where the bolted anchor was), belay off of a tree. 45m, 5.7. This ledge is where the first anchor typically is for Snake if you rope-up for the initial scramble before the corner crack.
P2: Continue up this splitter crack system through easy climbing to a narrowing finger crack. The crack eventually evaporates, clip a bolt and slab your way to a bolted belay. 45m, 5.8.
P3: Short section climbing up features in a broken crack, traversing right into Anxiety State. 10m, 5.5.
P4: Very fun lieback up a right-facing corner crack that starts wide and narrows to fingers. Very casual, but if 5.8 is your limit you may want a #4 for the beginning (this is definitely not necessary though.) 5.7, 40m. (I recommend linking p3+p4 if you're not placing much gear).
Many people rappel from here, making it a fun and chill 5.8 outing.
P5: While the climbing feels casual until this point, it definitely begins to feel a little more wild if you continue. This pitch is classic Apron slammed-shut corner climbing on slabby feet, with 5 bolts to make you feel more comfy. Climb a right-facing corner system past a bolt, continue up and left on a low-angle face with good holds past 2 more bolts, and then mantle onto an overlap and a second right-facing corner system. The challenges of thin fingers and slabby feet continue as you climb up an arch past 2 more bolts. Continue up and right until the thin corner terminates, and look for the chain anchors to the right - somewhat hidden.
30m, 10-.
Rappel from here, making sure to rappel past the last belay station to a rap station on the face. Three more raps get you to the ground. You can rap with a 60m, but there are some rope-stretching raps so be sure to tie knots.
Photos
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