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Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, Sport, 800 ft, 6 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,925 total, 33/month
Shared By: Scott W on Mar 17, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of the better routes in Squamish, it follows up a two 5.9/10a pitches, then back to back 10d layback pitches with a mix of bolts and gear(small tech very useful). Then a 5.11b slab, very well bolted throughout the crux, then the bolts turn a little homemade and well spaced for the last 30 feet, though significantly easier than the crux. Classic!!!

Location

This is the next corner left of Dedre, it can by found via the same approach, but stopping 100 feet shy of the Dedre starting slab. Follow a ramp up and left to the first pitch 5.7.

Protection

Rack of cams up to 1", double up on small stuff up to a yellow alien.
Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.11a
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.11a
50m rope will not reach from the tree after the 10a pitch to the bolted anchors. Jul 7, 2016
Tim Bonnell
  5.11b
Tim Bonnell  
  5.11b
I think this route is the best line on the Apron. The gear is small but very good and the replacement bolts make this a safe outing. I recommend getting an early start since you want to get through the crux (at the top) before the sun comes out. Aug 9, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11b
FA: first three pitches: Jim Baldwin, Hamish Mutch, 1962. To Broadway ledge: Fred Beckey, Jim Sinclair, 1967. FFA: Peter Croft, Tami Knight, 1979 Feb 12, 2015
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I confirm, the last slab pitch is retro bolted, very safe now and way less of head game than it was previously. A little sad as it takes the excitement down a lot=( Jun 22, 2011
The crux pitch has been retro-bolted; formerly it featured bad bolts on 5.10-ish terrain, it is now safe. There are, however, some difficult clips in the very thin crux section. The 10d layback pitches require a lot of small gear to protect adequately; there are some bolts on both pitches, but gear is needed in between. An alternate start links up the first two pitches of "Dirty White Boys" to join the route at the third pitch. Note that if you do the first 5.7 pitch of Snake, it is more than 60 meters so belay after the section of ledge scrambling. Awesome route with beautiful climbing. Aug 21, 2008