Type: Trad, Sport, 800 ft, 6 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,545 total · 34/month
Shared By: Scott W on Mar 17, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This is one of the better routes in Squamish, it follows up a two 5.9/10a pitches, then back to back 10d layback pitches with a mix of bolts and gear(small tech very useful). Then a 5.11b slab, very well bolted throughout the crux, then the bolts turn a little homemade and well spaced for the last 30 feet, though significantly easier than the crux. Classic!!!

Location

This is the next corner left of Dedre, it can by found via the same approach, but stopping 100 feet shy of the Dedre starting slab. Follow a ramp up and left to the first pitch 5.7.

Protection

Rack of cams up to 1", double up on small stuff up to a yellow alien.
The crux pitch has been retro-bolted; formerly it featured bad bolts on 5.10-ish terrain, it is now safe. There are, however, some difficult clips in the very thin crux section. The 10d layback pitches require a lot of small gear to protect adequately; there are some bolts on both pitches, but gear is needed in between. An alternate start links up the first two pitches of "Dirty White Boys" to join the route at the third pitch. Note that if you do the first 5.7 pitch of Snake, it is more than 60 meters so belay after the section of ledge scrambling. Awesome route with beautiful climbing. Aug 21, 2008
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11b
I confirm, the last slab pitch is retro bolted, very safe now and way less of head game than it was previously. A little sad as it takes the excitement down a lot=( Jun 22, 2011
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11b
FA: first three pitches: Jim Baldwin, Hamish Mutch, 1962. To Broadway ledge: Fred Beckey, Jim Sinclair, 1967. FFA: Peter Croft, Tami Knight, 1979 Feb 12, 2015
Tim Bonnell
  5.11b
Tim Bonnell  
  5.11b
I think this route is the best line on the Apron. The gear is small but very good and the replacement bolts make this a safe outing. I recommend getting an early start since you want to get through the crux (at the top) before the sun comes out. Aug 9, 2015
Where's Walden
  5.11a
Where's Walden  
  5.11a
50m rope will not reach from the tree after the 10a pitch to the bolted anchors. Jul 7, 2016