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Unfinished Symphony
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 56
votes
Routes in Central Apron
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Born Again T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Read Between the Lines T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unfinished Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.68738, -123.14652 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 8,311 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Scott W on Mar 17, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This is one of the better routes in Squamish, it follows up a two 5.9/10a pitches, then back to back 10d layback pitches with a mix of bolts and gear(small tech very useful). Then a 5.11b slab, very well bolted throughout the crux, then the bolts turn a little homemade and well spaced for the last 30 feet, though significantly easier than the crux. Classic!!!
Location
This is the prominent corner to the left of Diedre.
Approach via the trail that cuts uphill into the woods where the bathroom in the Apron lot is. Follow the trail for a minute until it forks and skirts left along the base of the cliff. Follow the trail through the woods for a minute until you reach the cliff again at an eye-catching low angle crack (see P1 of Read Between the Lines) to the left of a low-5th class V-groove. Walk up the V-groove and this will deposit you at the base of Snake. Scramble up and then climber’s left 5-10m of low 5th class to a large ledge where you'll belay for P1. Alternatively, climb the before mentioned “eye catching” crack next to the V-groove to gain this same belay ledge.
Photos
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