Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 700 ft (212 m), 10 pitches|
|FA:||Numerous, FFA Marc Bourdon, Jay Audenart, 2001|
|Page Views:||1,795 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Drewsky on Aug 5, 2015|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. These closures will be updates as more assessments are completed.
Grand Wall Closure Area
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack), the Undertow bouldering area and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Bouldering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Western Dihedrals Closure Area
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Closure map to be posted shortly.
Slhanay Closure Area
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
This route is a stellar way to climb a ton of hard friction slab without frazzling your nerves with mind-frying runouts. It's not always a sport climb and there are certainly places where a fall would be undesirable, but it's better protected than many of the other Apron slabs: no three bolt .10c pitches here. Most of the pitches are 5.11 and your feet and toes will remember the continuous nature of the climbing for at least a few days afterwards. The .12d is completely optional as it's a short, steep boulder problem you can easily pull through.
P1 (.11b): Right off the bat, 'warm up' on a very thin mossy slab that climbs out of the forest above a downed tree. You can start from under/behind the tree but the slab is pretty dirty lower down. I started from a ledge a little higher. As the select book states, it is a rather cruel warmup.
P2 (.10b): Much easier and shorter slab. Belay amongst trees on the ledge.
P3 (.10d): Climb the well-protected slab directly above. 50m long, this pitch feels harder than some of the later .11a pitches. Very sustained. Ends just below Snake.
P4 (.11a): Cross Snake and angle right. Slightly thinner at one point but much shorter than the previous pitch.
P5 (.11d): The business. Move right, then up until you encounter a steepening, thin section. Turn on the magic footwork switch, weld your feet to some miniscule features and hope for the best. Doesn't ease up much until you're clipping the anchor.
P6 (.11a): The guide says .11b; feels more like .10c-.11a at most, maybe because it's much, much easier than the previous pitch.
P7 (.11a): Feet hurting yet? Another thin, low-angle slab leads up to a belay below a steeper section of slab.
P8 (.11b or c?): The guide bills this as another non-descript .11a but I found it to be a major 'sting in the tail'. A bleak bulge of 5.11 glacier glass in the middle of the pitch with a little too much sun on it felt much, much harder than all but the crux slab pitch. Perhaps this is instead the '.11b with a bulge' described as P6 or perhaps my feet were just tired by this point.
P9 (.12d or .9 A0): Glassy and beautiful glacier polish leads to the short, steep headwall. Checking out the moves briefly seemed to put the section at about V6 or so. Bolts are right in your face, so go for it! Dirt on the slab above made the subsequent easier climbing a bit scarier.
P10 (.10a): I think I may have combined this with P9 but I can't recall. In any case, the climbing remains easier but becomes more and more dirty. If I'd had a brush, 10 minutes would have been enough to create an improved path through the thickening murk.