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Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 7 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,991 total, 16/month
Shared By: Giza on Nov 29, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

This route on the apron is a link-up of the best pitches of two routes: Unfinished Symphony and Dream On. 3 pitches of 5.10 slab lead up to a 5.10b traverse and then a 2 pitch shallow corner (10d) finishing with a 5.11b slab crux pitch. The route is runout in places but generally well protected. Like a number of other routes on the apron, there are a few rusty quarter-inch bolts that add some spice to the route.

Gear

A handful of cams up to # 2 Camalot and 8 draws. Double up on small cams (blue to yellow Aliens) and nuts for shallow pin scars in the 10d corners.

Photos

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Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
Pretty spicy. A little runout, only a pin and a bolt on the 10a pitch. The 10d corner system was really cool. Great route. Aug 7, 2010
mattm
TX
 
mattm   TX
 
I did this when there were old bolts. Latest report I've heard is that these have all be replaced with new stainless gear. Still runout though! Nov 22, 2008