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Edge of Anxiety
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Central Apron
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Born Again T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Read Between the Lines T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unfinished Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 9 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 49.68738, -123.14652 |
| FA: | Robin Barley, plus the existing FAs |
| Page Views: | 2,473 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Jul 13, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This is a link up of Unfinished Symphony, Anxiety State and Diamondback. The only new climbing on this route is the traverse left from Unfinished Symphony. This traverse is found by climbing to the first bolt on the second 10d pitch of that route, clipping it and then downclimbing until you can cross the vertical wall that divides the tiers of slab. Depending on where you start moving left, it may be very difficult without employing some tension from the rope. The rest of the traverse is probably 5.9+ and finishes with the bolt you clipped about 20 feet horizontally to your right! Despite that, it might be wise to have the weaker climber in the party, if it's an issue, lead the traverse since seconding it leaves you even more exposed at the moment you unclip the bolt (you can, however, place some cams below the bolt to protect your downclimb).
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