All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Apron

Edge of Anxiety

Name: Edge of Anxiety
Rating: 2.3

5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in The Apron

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Born Again T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bottom Line, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Crystal Burst S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mickey Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Read Between the Lines T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Slab Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	South Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	St. Bernard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	St. Vitus' Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	That Dog Don't Hunt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Unfinished Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

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Type:	Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 9 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Robin Barley, plus the existing FAs
Page Views:	2,103 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Peter Spindloe on Jul 13, 2008
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED SEPT 20th 2021 Details

Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. Existing closures will remain in effect through the winter, as changing temperatures and weather events may trigger more debris to fall in areas where rock falls have occurred recently.

NORTH WALL CLOSURE
A new rock fall occurred Sept. 20th on the Zodiac Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: all routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Angels Crest on the Lower Zodiac Wall.

Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…

DARK SIDE BOULDERING CLOSURE
The debris field from the Sept. 20th rock fall reached the Dark Side bouldering area, and this area is now closed.

GRAND WALL CLOSURE
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack) and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.

Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…

GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
All Bouldering areas between but not including Cacademon Boulder and Titanic North have also been closed. This area includes: Gilligan’s Island, Mantel Madness, Undertow, Lipsmack, Superfly, Octagon, Black Dyke, Viper, Thighmaster, and Survivor.

Boudlering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…

WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…

SLHANAY CLOSURE
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.

Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Access Issue: BANANA PEEL ROCKFALL DANGER Details

The flake on the last pitch of Banana Peel started to crack sometime before August 24th, 2022 and is now completely detached. This flake currently supports a big triangular block and both represent big danger if they come off.

These are Kris Wild's comments after doing a preliminary inspection of the area and highlighting the new crack/flake with some chalk:

"We need to recommend that no one get on the top two pitches of Banana Peel. It would be very hard for a 5.7 climber to not touch this thing safely at all while climbing the pitch.

The big triangular block sitting on top of it is definitely suspended by this flake, and would slide on its own if the flake broke free."

Kris put up a temporary sign in the parking lot, but clearly more signage is needed.

Preliminary recommendations by Anders Ourom:

1. Don't go anywhere near the last pitch of Banana Peel. If you do, don't touch anything. (Better yet, don't climb anything from Diedre to Slab Alley, or if you really must, get the hell off the first pitches as soon as you can.)
2. If you insist on climbing Banana Peel anyway, avoid the last two pitches and branch off to the last two pitches of Sparrow or Slab Alley instead. Both somewhat harder.
3. Be very aware that if the flake and block fall, the rocks, and debris from secondary falls, could end up anywhere on the Apron to the right of Diedre. The Apron is cone-shaped, and the geometry and angle is such that rocks could go anywhere there. Lower pitches seem more threatened.

Granitic rock weighs 2,600 - 2,800 kilos/cubic metres, and I'd guess that the volume there is several cubic metres.

Description

This is a link up of Unfinished Symphony, Anxiety State and Diamondback. The only new climbing on this route is the traverse left from Unfinished Symphony. This traverse is found by climbing to the first bolt on the second 10d pitch of that route, clipping it and then downclimbing until you can cross the vertical wall that divides the tiers of slab. Depending on where you start moving left, it may be very difficult without employing some tension from the rope. The rest of the traverse is probably 5.9+ and finishes with the bolt you clipped about 20 feet horizontally to your right! Despite that, it might be wise to have the weaker climber in the party, if it's an issue, lead the traverse since seconding it leaves you even more exposed at the moment you unclip the bolt (you can, however, place some cams below the bolt to protect your downclimb).