Avg: 3.7 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 7 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Dave Jones, Don Serl 1986|
|Page Views:||1,760 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||Tim Bonnell on Aug 8, 2015|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
P1 (10c): From the Snake start go out right and wander up the right hand side of the slab. 40m, 4 bolts
P2 (10a): Move right and plug a .75 camalot into the corner and pull out onto the slab. Put your head down and keep your faith in friction. 35m, 3 bolts + cam.
P3 (10b): More slab climbing straight up...not over-bolted. 30m, 3 bolts
P4 (11a): The slab steepens and the climbing turns more to 'front-pointing' than smearing. Veer slightly left then back right to a scoop with two bolts, one old one new. The bolts are more closely spaced on this pitch. 30m, 7bolts.
P5 (10d): More of the same (this pitch can be linked with P4 if you feel like you need the challenge). 12m, 2 bolts.
P6 (11b): Move up to the small seam and tickle in some small gear if you can find it - I didn't. Pull a mantle on decent holds and clip a 'thank-god' bolt. The crux is moving left and up on tiny crystals. 25m, 4 bolts.
P7 (5.9): The final pitch feels like a cake-walk after the first 6, but it still has some real climbing. 32m, 3 bolts.
I debated whether to call this PG13 or R but went with the former. If anyone else who has climbed it feels otherwise I can change.
Descend as per any other Apron route