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Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dave Jones, Don Serl 1986
Page Views: 540 total, 19/month
Shared By: Tim Bonnell on Aug 8, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

This is an inspiring line directly up the right edge of the Central Apron. Prepare for great slab climbing, with the easier sections being somewhat runout.

P1 (10c): From the Snake start go out right and wander up the right hand side of the slab. 40m, 4 bolts
P2 (10a): Move right and plug a .75 camalot into the corner and pull out onto the slab. Put your head down and keep your faith in friction. 35m, 3 bolts + cam.
P3 (10b): More slab climbing straight up...not over-bolted. 30m, 3 bolts
P4 (11a): The slab steepens and the climbing turns more to 'front-pointing' than smearing. Veer slightly left then back right to a scoop with two bolts, one old one new. The bolts are more closely spaced on this pitch. 30m, 7bolts.
P5 (10d): More of the same (this pitch can be linked with P4 if you feel like you need the challenge). 12m, 2 bolts.
P6 (11b): Move up to the small seam and tickle in some small gear if you can find it - I didn't. Pull a mantle on decent holds and clip a 'thank-god' bolt. The crux is moving left and up on tiny crystals. 25m, 4 bolts.
P7 (5.9): The final pitch feels like a cake-walk after the first 6, but it still has some real climbing. 32m, 3 bolts.

I debated whether to call this PG13 or R but went with the former. If anyone else who has climbed it feels otherwise I can change.

Location

Scramble up the trail as per Snake but where that route starts, take the right hand side of the slab.
Descend as per any other Apron route

Protection

Take about 8-10 draws and a .75 camalot for the start of P2. In theory, a #5 RP will protect the start of the crux pitch but I couldn't find the slot. It's a tricky place to try fishing in gear as you are a bit run-out and not at a great stance....probably better to just pull the move (maybe 10a/b) and clip the bolt.

Photos

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Tim Bonnell  
 
Climbed this route again today and it is certainly one to remember. This time the pitch difficulty blurred together a little, I thought the 1st 3 pitches all felt about mid 5.10. There are definitely a few runouts (up to 10m) on the first 3 pitches, and the harder pitches aren't exactly sport-bolted. I've updated the description with a bolt count and pitch lengths. I'm not sure what makes a climb R as opposed to PG-13 but at least now you can do the math a make an educated decision. Sep 23, 2015
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
The pitch I remember as the scariest was the second one you describe where you pull out of the crack and out right onto the slab. But then, of course, it was my lead. I just remember moving right, padding up the slab a ways, looking down into the trees and thinking well, I guess I'm soloing here for a bit.

Then again, if you're up there for the .11 slab the .10 on that pitch isn't too bad. It's only runout if you fall, so just don't fall! What a fun route. Love the head games. Aug 13, 2015