All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > The Apron
Dancing in the Light
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
Routes in The Apron
|A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Dave Jones, Don Serl 1986|
|Page Views:||540 total, 19/month|
|Shared By:||Tim Bonnell on Aug 8, 2015|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Kate Lynn|
DescriptionThis is an inspiring line directly up the right edge of the Central Apron. Prepare for great slab climbing, with the easier sections being somewhat runout.
P1 (10c): From the Snake start go out right and wander up the right hand side of the slab. 40m, 4 bolts
P2 (10a): Move right and plug a .75 camalot into the corner and pull out onto the slab. Put your head down and keep your faith in friction. 35m, 3 bolts + cam.
P3 (10b): More slab climbing straight up...not over-bolted. 30m, 3 bolts
P4 (11a): The slab steepens and the climbing turns more to 'front-pointing' than smearing. Veer slightly left then back right to a scoop with two bolts, one old one new. The bolts are more closely spaced on this pitch. 30m, 7bolts.
P5 (10d): More of the same (this pitch can be linked with P4 if you feel like you need the challenge). 12m, 2 bolts.
P6 (11b): Move up to the small seam and tickle in some small gear if you can find it - I didn't. Pull a mantle on decent holds and clip a 'thank-god' bolt. The crux is moving left and up on tiny crystals. 25m, 4 bolts.
P7 (5.9): The final pitch feels like a cake-walk after the first 6, but it still has some real climbing. 32m, 3 bolts.
I debated whether to call this PG13 or R but went with the former. If anyone else who has climbed it feels otherwise I can change.
LocationScramble up the trail as per Snake but where that route starts, take the right hand side of the slab.
Descend as per any other Apron route
ProtectionTake about 8-10 draws and a .75 camalot for the start of P2. In theory, a #5 RP will protect the start of the crux pitch but I couldn't find the slot. It's a tricky place to try fishing in gear as you are a bit run-out and not at a great stance....probably better to just pull the move (maybe 10a/b) and clip the bolt.
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