Avg: 3.3 from 224 votes
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||R. Willmott and P. Botta, 1962|
|Page Views:||21,779 total · 140/month|
|Shared By:||John Bradford on Nov 19, 2007|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
Pitch 1: (5.7) Up the obvious corner off the ledge to a bolted anchor
Pitch 2: (5.9) Continue to move left, I followed a finger crack to the next belay, called "the stage"
Pitch 3 (5.9) Up the corner to next ledge.
Pitch 4 (5.9) This for me was the crux pitch. Up and to the right, traversing around a small tree and pulling the corner to the next bolted belay. The feet are thin!
and the hands not so good.
Pitch 5 (5.7) Continue up the corner, then across the face to a loose gully. Belay here, then scramble up to Memorial ledge
From memorial ledge, it is possible to walk off to the left, following small ledges and trees (Broadway) to better ground. A grade 3 option would be to climb Memorial Crack, then continue up the Squamish Buttress, finishing on top of the Chief.