All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > The Apron
Avg: 2.7 from 114 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||J. Baldwin, J. Sinclair, P. Neilson, 1961|
|Page Views:||5,000 total · 42/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Spindloe on Jun 21, 2008|
|Admins:||Kate Lynn, Nate Ball|
DescriptionTo get from Broadway Ledge (where most of the lower Apron climb like Diedre finish) to the Squamish Buttress, The Ultimate Everything, or the Echelon Wall, the shortest and easiest option is this route.
The wildly thin flake is very interesting and makes the easy climbing into a bit of a unique experience. While McLane's guidebook calls it two pitches, it's easily done in one with a 70m rope and probably a 60m (although being wrong in this case would be a shame since the crux is the very first move which makes simul-climbing unappealing).
The very first move off of Broadway Ledge is the crux and requires some faith that the flake is good, but it's not hard.
LocationStart a the right side of Broadway Ledge just before it starts to head downwards. The wall is smooth and concave, but a flake provides and undercling that is sufficient to reach the top side of the same flake.
The end of this route leaves you on a trail that heads into the forest towards the Buttress and the Ultimate Everything. It's a fifteen minute hike, so untie and coil the rope before proceeding.