Avg: 2.8 from 182 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||J. Baldwin, J. Sinclair, P. Neilson, 1961|
|Page Views:||8,521 total · 58/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Spindloe on Jun 21, 2008|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
The wildly thin flake is very interesting and makes the easy climbing into a bit of a unique experience. While McLane's guidebook calls it two pitches, it's easily done in one with a 70m rope and probably a 60m (although being wrong in this case would be a shame since the crux is the very first move which makes simul-climbing unappealing).
The very first move off of Broadway Ledge is the crux and requires some faith that the flake is good, but it's not hard.
The end of this route leaves you on a trail that heads into the forest towards the Buttress and the Ultimate Everything. It's a fifteen minute hike, so untie and coil the rope before proceeding.