Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J. Baldwin, J. Sinclair, P. Neilson, 1961
Page Views: 6,365 total · 49/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Jun 21, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

148 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


To get from Broadway Ledge (where most of the lower Apron climb like Diedre finish) to the Squamish Buttress, The Ultimate Everything, or the Echelon Wall, the shortest and easiest option is this route.

The wildly thin flake is very interesting and makes the easy climbing into a bit of a unique experience. While McLane's guidebook calls it two pitches, it's easily done in one with a 70m rope and probably a 60m (although being wrong in this case would be a shame since the crux is the very first move which makes simul-climbing unappealing).

The very first move off of Broadway Ledge is the crux and requires some faith that the flake is good, but it's not hard.


Start a the right side of Broadway Ledge just before it starts to head downwards. The wall is smooth and concave, but a flake provides and undercling that is sufficient to reach the top side of the same flake.

The end of this route leaves you on a trail that heads into the forest towards the Buttress and the Ultimate Everything. It's a fifteen minute hike, so untie and coil the rope before proceeding.


A few cams up to 3 inches are plenty, but they are more for the comfort of the second so they don't swing rather than the leader since the flake is so thin it would be very disconcerting to fall onto them, although it would probably be fine.


Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
I thought this was just a pitch you had to endure to get to Buttress, Ultimate Everything, etc, but it's amazingly fun. Beautiful sustained wide hand crack. Bomber hand jams the whole way. Jul 11, 2011
Mark van Eijk
Mark van Eijk  
In any other setting this would be a fun outing in it's own right, as it stands it can still put a smile on you face as part of a larger day. The first move is indeed the crux and is best attempted as far as possible to the right along the flake (can be hard to see this from below). I know of a few cases where followers end up having trouble because they don't have enough slack to get to the right and have trouble communicating with their partners (it's a long way and can get windy). Don't worry too much about placing a lot of pro on the initial thin flake. The climbing doesn't get harder again until the pro gets more secure. Sep 12, 2011
Jonny 5
Squamish BC
Jonny 5   Squamish BC
Highly recommend. Very unique feature. First move is def. crux. Dec 14, 2013
Lina Baker  
Very fun, but very strange! Keep your footing or you might find yourself with pretty scratched up and bloody ankles :) A nice, fun way to get to the ledge for the traverse over to Ultimate Everything. Aug 26, 2014
Ed kelly  
This is a surprisingly fun bit of climbing, very easy but interesting and unique. I do not recommend linking the pitches. We did, and although we had plenty of rope with a 70 there was no way we could hear or see each other. There was then a ton of rope drag due mostly to the rope running inside the flake. With extremely hard tugs we were able to do our basic commands through the rope, but it was really tough to give a decent belay without pulling my follower off the traverse. Break it in two and watch your partner come up to you. If like me your partner is a new leader looking for easy pitches this would be a good spot for them to lead through. The second pitch is short, easy, and has giant trees at the top. Sep 29, 2014
Jaime M
Jaime M  
We did this as one pitch with a 60m rope - it would probably be better to break it up though given the rope drag. Most of the climbing was very easy but I think I would call the first move a 5.7. Jul 5, 2015
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
Remarkably, it is possible to get lost on this by continuing left along a skinny crack after the intended (larger) crack turns upward. Aug 28, 2016
Great pitch is way move fun to smear with your feet and hand over hand the flake. We did it as one pitch but lots of drag, will do it in 2 next time Jun 13, 2017
Kyle Wall  
No problems with drag here. Don't sew it up & make sure to extend everything; linking is the way to do it. Jun 19, 2018