Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J. Baldwin, J. Sinclair, P. Neilson, 1961
Page Views: 8,521 total · 58/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Jun 21, 2008
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 - Guidelines Details
Access Issue: 2020 Falcon Closures Lifted Details

Description

To get from Broadway Ledge (where most of the lower Apron climb like Diedre finish) to the Squamish Buttress, The Ultimate Everything, or the Echelon Wall, the shortest and easiest option is this route.

The wildly thin flake is very interesting and makes the easy climbing into a bit of a unique experience. While McLane's guidebook calls it two pitches, it's easily done in one with a 70m rope and probably a 60m (although being wrong in this case would be a shame since the crux is the very first move which makes simul-climbing unappealing).

The very first move off of Broadway Ledge is the crux and requires some faith that the flake is good, but it's not hard.

Location

Start a the right side of Broadway Ledge just before it starts to head downwards. The wall is smooth and concave, but a flake provides and undercling that is sufficient to reach the top side of the same flake.

The end of this route leaves you on a trail that heads into the forest towards the Buttress and the Ultimate Everything. It's a fifteen minute hike, so untie and coil the rope before proceeding.

Protection

A few cams up to 3 inches are plenty, but they are more for the comfort of the second so they don't swing rather than the leader since the flake is so thin it would be very disconcerting to fall onto them, although it would probably be fine.

Photos