Type: Trad, 380 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Baldwin, Ken Baker, 1961
Page Views: 966 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Sep 3, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

If Boomstick Crack is crowded, or you're trying to pass a party, this is a good option to get from Broadway Ledge up to Squamish Buttress.

P1. Start just right on Boomstick. Place a ~1 in cam in the undercling, reach really high, and crank a fun move right off the ledge. Easier if you're tall. Face climb up and right past a bolt to the obvious tree and crack. Climb crack past a few anchor stations (this is a popular rappel route). Finish where the crack peters out near and belay at the last large tree. Almost 200 feet long.

P2. Face climb straight up, then a little left, past a bolt at 5.8. Easier climbing all the way up the forest and a huge ledge. Belay from a tree. About 180 feet.

Location

Broadway Ledge, on the right side, where the trees peter out. Just right of Boomstick, the obvious huge flake that goes sharply left and up.

Protection

A couple bolts, a few pieces of gear, but not much needed. Mostly trivial climbing.

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