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Dances with Pigs
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.4 from 10
votes
Routes in The Apron
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A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Born Again T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cha-Cha Crack, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Crystal Burst S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mickey Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Read Between the Lines T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Slab Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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St. Bernard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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St. Vitus' Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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That Dog Don't Hunt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Under her Apron T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unfinished Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Mitch Thorton, Nola Stewart |
| Page Views: | 2,509 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | cerickson on Oct 14, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED SEPT 20th 2021
Details
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. Existing closures will remain in effect through the winter, as changing temperatures and weather events may trigger more debris to fall in areas where rock falls have occurred recently.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
A new rock fall occurred Sept. 20th on the Zodiac Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: all routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Angels Crest on the Lower Zodiac Wall.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
DARK SIDE BOULDERING CLOSURE
The debris field from the Sept. 20th rock fall reached the Dark Side bouldering area, and this area is now closed.
GRAND WALL CLOSURE
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack) and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
All Bouldering areas between but not including Cacademon Boulder and Titanic North have also been closed. This area includes: Gilligan’s Island, Mantel Madness, Undertow, Lipsmack, Superfly, Octagon, Black Dyke, Viper, Thighmaster, and Survivor.
Boudlering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
SLHANAY CLOSURE
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
A new rock fall occurred Sept. 20th on the Zodiac Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: all routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Angels Crest on the Lower Zodiac Wall.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
DARK SIDE BOULDERING CLOSURE
The debris field from the Sept. 20th rock fall reached the Dark Side bouldering area, and this area is now closed.
GRAND WALL CLOSURE
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack) and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
All Bouldering areas between but not including Cacademon Boulder and Titanic North have also been closed. This area includes: Gilligan’s Island, Mantel Madness, Undertow, Lipsmack, Superfly, Octagon, Black Dyke, Viper, Thighmaster, and Survivor.
Boudlering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
SLHANAY CLOSURE
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Long run-out route to the right of A Question of Balance. The first pitch, while not too hard, has few bolts. The second pitch is cruxy but better protected. The third pitch is 5.4 slab (aka walking) to a tree anchor.
Photos
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