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Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 7 pitches
FA: Gourdie Smaill, Steve Sutton, Paul Piro, Dean Hart, Ed Spat
Page Views: 1,692 total, 42/month
Shared By: John Groh on Aug 15, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Scary and runout (but amazing) friction slab. Definitely type 2.5 fun.

P1: Same as pitch 1 of Diedre. Climb the easy, low-angle slab up and left to a bolt anchor. Easily linked with pitch 2, as long as you're not stuck behind another party. 5.7ish.

P2: Super short. Climb left and slightly up to another set of bolts. 5.6ish.

P3: The scary pitch. Climb sustained 5.9 friction slab with no pro to the next set of bolts roughly 50 feet up. You wouldn't want to fall on this one.

P4: Move up and slightly left to pull the small roof/bulge and continue up for another few feet. Eventually start traversing up and right to the next bolt anchor. Route finding can be tricky on this one - don't go too high. There are bolts, but they're pretty spaced out - maybe 3 or 4 for the whole pitch. 5.10b.

P5: Short. Move left from the anchor and up. Pretty much the same as pitch 4 - bolted but runout friction slab. The pitch ends at another bolt anchor. 5.10c.

P6: The first well-protected pitch of the route. Enjoyable but slightly off-balance arete climbing to another bolt anchor. 5.9.

P7: Climb super low-angle friction slab, moving left and meeting up with the finish of Diedre in the right-facing corner. Belay from a tree and walk off.

Location

Shares the start of Diedre.

Protection

You can get a few placements on pitches 1-2. Pitch 3 has no pro. You can get a cam under the roof/bulge on pitch 4, and there are a few sparce bolts as well. Pitch 5 has a few sparce bolts. Pitch 6 is well-bolted. Pitch 7 has some placements in the Diedre corner.

Photos

Alexander K
The road
 
Alexander K   The road
 
Finally a route that a North Carolinian can be proud of! A few clarifications on the MP beta for those who want to stay on route:

3rd 5.9 pitch: you can either go straight up into the dirtiness and clip a bolt (two if you include the rusted through 1/4 incher) then traverse up and right to the anchor or I suppose you can follow the guidebook beta and climb cleaner but unprotected rock to the right (another "off route" bolt near the top too).

4th 5.10b Pitch (3 bolts): Easiest (at least for me) to get into roof from the right side. My partner placed a marginal piece in the flakes before the roof, fell, ripped it and took a huge fall onto the belay (60 footer?). This was the scariest part of the route for us, maybe because it was a little wet. #1-#2 camalots in roof.

5th 5.10c Pitch (3 bolts): Don't go up and left after you clip the 3rd bolt as described above (though there is an anchor on the face here for a different route that's not in the selected climbs guidebook) instead go up and right to an anchor around the arete, you can't see it until you are on top of it. This was the only point where I got us off route.

6th 5.9 pitch: Not as well protected as described above. Climb the arete clipping bolts to protect the harder moves. One BD 0.3-0.4 was nice to help protect some moves on the arete.

7th pitch: Have your impatient euro partner solo past the party of 3 on Diedre, deal with the ensuing cluster. Jun 14, 2017
Khash
 
Khash  
 
Did this route on May.26.2017. The third pitch (5.9 run out) was pretty dirt, I had to clean my holds with the brush as I go up, might have been the first ascent of the season.
Just a few notes, the 5.9 pitch has a bolt, probably 6-7 meters up, still very runout to the anchor, especially the last traverse move; definitely don't wanna fall on this pitch.
Pitch 4 and 5 have 3 bolts eash, pitch 6 has 5 bolts. May 27, 2017
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
 
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
 
You better have a solid follower for pitch 4 - there's some legit slabbing without pro on the traverse to anchor. Would be a bad fall. Jun 13, 2016