Type: Trad, 7 pitches
FA: Gourdie Smaill, Steve Sutton, Paul Piro, Dean Hart, Ed Spat
Page Views: 2,667 total · 44/month
Shared By: John Groh on Aug 15, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Scary and runout (but amazing) friction slab. Definitely type 2.5 fun.

P1: Same as pitch 1 of Diedre. Climb the easy, low-angle slab up and left to a bolt anchor. Easily linked with pitch 2, as long as you're not stuck behind another party. 5.7ish.

P2: Super short. Climb left and slightly up to another set of bolts. 5.6ish.

P3: The scary pitch. Climb sustained 5.9 friction slab with no pro to the next set of bolts roughly 50 feet up. You wouldn't want to fall on this one.

P4: Move up and slightly left to pull the small roof/bulge and continue up for another few feet. Eventually start traversing up and right to the next bolt anchor. Route finding can be tricky on this one - don't go too high. There are bolts, but they're pretty spaced out - maybe 3 or 4 for the whole pitch. 5.10b.

P5: Short. Move left from the anchor and up. Pretty much the same as pitch 4 - bolted but runout friction slab. The pitch ends at another bolt anchor. 5.10c.

P6: The first well-protected pitch of the route. Enjoyable but slightly off-balance arete climbing to another bolt anchor. 5.9.

P7: Climb super low-angle friction slab, moving left and meeting up with the finish of Diedre in the right-facing corner. Belay from a tree and walk off.

Location

Shares the start of Diedre.

Protection

You can get a few placements on pitches 1-2. Pitch 3 has no pro. You can get a cam under the roof/bulge on pitch 4, and there are a few sparce bolts as well. Pitch 5 has a few sparce bolts. Pitch 6 is well-bolted. Pitch 7 has some placements in the Diedre corner.

Photos