Type: Trad, 7 pitches
FA: Gourdie Smaill, Steve Sutton, Paul Piro, Dean Hart, Ed Spat
Page Views: 2,261 total · 43/month
Shared By: John Groh on Aug 15, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


Scary and runout (but amazing) friction slab. Definitely type 2.5 fun.

P1: Same as pitch 1 of Diedre. Climb the easy, low-angle slab up and left to a bolt anchor. Easily linked with pitch 2, as long as you're not stuck behind another party. 5.7ish.

P2: Super short. Climb left and slightly up to another set of bolts. 5.6ish.

P3: The scary pitch. Climb sustained 5.9 friction slab with no pro to the next set of bolts roughly 50 feet up. You wouldn't want to fall on this one.

P4: Move up and slightly left to pull the small roof/bulge and continue up for another few feet. Eventually start traversing up and right to the next bolt anchor. Route finding can be tricky on this one - don't go too high. There are bolts, but they're pretty spaced out - maybe 3 or 4 for the whole pitch. 5.10b.

P5: Short. Move left from the anchor and up. Pretty much the same as pitch 4 - bolted but runout friction slab. The pitch ends at another bolt anchor. 5.10c.

P6: The first well-protected pitch of the route. Enjoyable but slightly off-balance arete climbing to another bolt anchor. 5.9.

P7: Climb super low-angle friction slab, moving left and meeting up with the finish of Diedre in the right-facing corner. Belay from a tree and walk off.


Shares the start of Diedre.


You can get a few placements on pitches 1-2. Pitch 3 has no pro. You can get a cam under the roof/bulge on pitch 4, and there are a few sparce bolts as well. Pitch 5 has a few sparce bolts. Pitch 6 is well-bolted. Pitch 7 has some placements in the Diedre corner.


Stone Ridge, NY
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
You better have a solid follower for pitch 4 - there's some legit slabbing without pro on the traverse to anchor. Would be a bad fall. Jun 13, 2016
Did this route on May.26.2017. The third pitch (5.9 run out) was pretty dirt, I had to clean my holds with the brush as I go up, might have been the first ascent of the season.
Just a few notes, the 5.9 pitch has a bolt, probably 6-7 meters up, still very runout to the anchor, especially the last traverse move; definitely don't wanna fall on this pitch.
Pitch 4 and 5 have 3 bolts eash, pitch 6 has 5 bolts. May 27, 2017
Alexander K
The road
Alexander K   The road
Finally a route that a North Carolinian can be proud of! A few clarifications on the MP beta for those who want to stay on route:

3rd 5.9 pitch: you can either go straight up into the dirtiness and clip a bolt (two if you include the rusted through 1/4 incher) then traverse up and right to the anchor or I suppose you can follow the guidebook beta and climb cleaner but unprotected rock to the right (another "off route" bolt near the top too).

4th 5.10b Pitch (3 bolts): Easiest (at least for me) to get into roof from the right side. My partner placed a marginal piece in the flakes before the roof, fell, ripped it and took a huge fall onto the belay (60 footer?). This was the scariest part of the route for us, maybe because it was a little wet. #1-#2 camalots in roof.

5th 5.10c Pitch (3 bolts): Don't go up and left after you clip the 3rd bolt as described above (though there is an anchor on the face here for a different route that's not in the selected climbs guidebook) instead go up and right to an anchor around the arete, you can't see it until you are on top of it. This was the only point where I got us off route.

6th 5.9 pitch: Not as well protected as described above. Climb the arete clipping bolts to protect the harder moves. One BD 0.3-0.4 was nice to help protect some moves on the arete.

7th pitch: Have your impatient euro partner solo past the party of 3 on Diedre, deal with the ensuing cluster. Jun 14, 2017
To clarify: The 5.9 pitch (1st unique pitch of WL off the Deidre anchor) DOES NOT have a bolt. Yes, you can wander off-route to clip a bolt on the Passing Lane or head way over to climber's right, but this pitch on White Lightning proper is not protected. This pitch is also longer than 50ft by a fair ways - likely a 20m-25m pitch.

The most committing moves of the climb come on the 10b pitch as you leave the belay and head straight up to the horizontal break. Though not overly difficult, a fall here would be less than ideal and may result in directly striking your belayer in the process. Past the horizontal break, the climb is actually reasonably well protected unless you link the 10b and 10c pitches by climbing straight up and not heading climber's right to the anchor.

This is an excellent climb on good rock, that is perhaps not so fearsome as some may believe. If you find climbs like "One Scoop..." to be easy, give this a go. It's rewarding and a nice intro into the more committing slab routes in Squamish. May 30, 2018
Joshua Thompson
Seattle, WA
  5.10c R
Joshua Thompson   Seattle, WA
  5.10c R
Pitch 3 is the worst for me. You can go straight up from the anchor and climb the lichen covered path to a single bolt then traverse right onto the clean rock then straight up, or just climb the clean rock with ZERO pro to the anchor... I don't know how high it is but easily feels like 80ft! This last time, I started up from the top of the first pitch because of the crowds. There's a bolt straight up, just beneath a bulge... not sure what it's for, then there's one on top of the bulge. I clipped the lower bolt then went around left of the bulge, then up, skipping the second pitch anchor. Not sure that I'd recommend it, but it worked out for me. The 10b pitch is fun, just don't fall on the traverse... and stay low! The10c pitch is short and sweet. The first time I did this climb, I went right past the anchor above the 10c pitch which is hidden on the other side of the arete and ended up belaying off of a single bolt! Go all the way to the arete and look over, there are two hangers there. The arete pitch is well bolted and definitely awkward feeling climbing. A large flake has recently been broke off where I think you used to be able to plug some gear. Enjoy :) Sep 4, 2018