Avg: 2.7 from 178 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Dan Tate, Barry Hagen, July 1965|
|Page Views:||36,081 total · 223/month|
|Shared By:||Kurt Withers on Mar 21, 2007|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
To protect Peregrine Falcons the climbing
routes within areas circled in red are closed.
Closed routes include:
Long Time No See (pitches 8 and 9 and the top of pitch 7).
Finish Long Time No See in the trees above the rappel route. Rappel after climbing North Apron
routes if possible, but if you do decide to walk to Broadway Ledge to descend, do so quickly and use
caution. Broadway Ledge can also be accessed via Desert Dyke (#37 in photo).
Use caution in areas adjacent to the closure, and if you encounter a falcon keep your distance. If
birds appear agitated, leave the area as soon as possible.
The closure will be lifted when the juveniles leave the area, which should occur by the end of July.
Please report falcon sightings to BC Parks
Reports from climbers allow us to base closures on observations and behaviours rather than closing blanket areas. Reports from climbers like you are essential for ensuring falcons are protected without unnecessarily limiting climbing opportunities.
More Info/Photos Here: drive.google.com/file/d/1I-…
P4: Head up the slab aiming for a right facing corner past a bolt. Look for good holds above your head and have at it (crux 5.7). Ramble left up a finger crack traverse and belay at a tree.
P5: Continue up the route following the obvious line of water scoops to a little alcove and a gear belay.
P6: Surmount the slab - crux 5.7 a little freaky but super fun! Continue right along a small ripple upwards to a huge hole then you have 2 options.
- Option 1 Place a cam high on the flake to create a semi toprope for the second coming across the slab and belay from a tree island below.
- Option 2 continue up a corner to a huge flake and to a tree belay up and left. (If your second is confident then go for option 2 you eliminate a belay)
P7: Ramble up the water scoops (5.easy) and either a gear belay at the overlap just below a big block or do a little simul-climbing so that you can belay from behind the big block.
P8: Ramble up the final easy slab (4th class) to the tree belay at the finish. This route is 2 moderate moves then jug haul flake fest in between. Super fun though a little run out in spots.