All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Chief > Apron

Banana Peel

Name: Banana Peel
Rating: 2.7

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13

Routes in The Apron

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Born Again T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bottom Line, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Crystal Burst S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mickey Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Read Between the Lines T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Slab Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	St. Bernard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

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Type:	Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 8 pitches, Grade II
FA:	Dan Tate, Barry Hagen, July 1965
Page Views:	43,860 total · 253/month
Shared By:	Kurt Withers on Mar 21, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Camping and COVID-19 - Guidelines Details

Please go to the Squamish Access Society website for up-to-date access information. Also join their Facebook page, or follow them on Instagram, and please consider joining or donating to support the climbing you love in Squamish.

COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.

Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.

CAMPING

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping.

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Access Issue: 2020 Falcon Closures Lifted Details

Falcon Closures on the upper Apron have been lifted. Use caution in the vicinity of Memorial Crack and areas in and around the Apron. If you encounter a falcon, keep your distance. If the birds appear agitated, leave the area as soon as possible.

Description

P1+2+3: The start is as for Diedre or to the right up a couple bolts. Climb the slab and then move right along the narrow ledge. Sling tree on the way by. Belay here or sling the tree and stem up onto the slab right in front of you to a tree belay on the left.

P4: Head up the slab aiming for a right facing corner past a bolt. Look for good holds above your head and have at it (crux 5.7). Ramble left up a finger crack traverse and belay at a tree.

P5: Continue up the route following the obvious line of water scoops to a little alcove and a gear belay.

P6: Surmount the slab - crux 5.7 a little freaky but super fun! Continue right along a small ripple upwards to a huge hole then you have 2 options.

Option 1 Place a cam high on the flake to create a semi toprope for the second coming across the slab and belay from a tree island below.
Option 2 continue up a corner to a huge flake and to a tree belay up and left. (If your second is confident then go for option 2 you eliminate a belay)

P7: Ramble up the water scoops (5.easy) and either a gear belay at the overlap just below a big block or do a little simul-climbing so that you can belay from behind the big block.

P8: Ramble up the final easy slab (4th class) to the tree belay at the finish. This route is 2 moderate moves then jug haul flake fest in between. Super fun though a little run out in spots.