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Routes in The Apron
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A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Dan Tate, Barry Hagen, July 1965 |
| Page Views: | 19,820 total · 139/month |
| Shared By: | Kurt Withers on Mar 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Kate Lynn |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Illegal Camping
Details
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
Description
P1+2+3: The start is as for Diedre or to the right up a couple bolts. Climb the slab and then move right along the narrow ledge. Sling tree on the way by. Belay here or sling the tree and stem up onto the slab right in front of you to a tree belay on the left.
P4: Head up the slab aiming for a right facing corner past a bolt. Look for good holds above your head and have at it (crux 5.7). Ramble left up a finger crack traverse and belay at a tree.
P5: Continue up the route following the obvious line of water scoops to a little alcove and a gear belay.
P6: Surmount the slab - crux 5.7 a little freaky but super fun! Continue right along a small ripple upwards to a huge hole then you have 2 options.
P7: Ramble up the water scoops (5.easy) and either a gear belay at the overlap just below a big block or do a little simul-climbing so that you can belay from behind the big block.
P8: Ramble up the final easy slab (4th class) to the tree belay at the finish. This route is 2 moderate moves then jug haul flake fest in between. Super fun though a little run out in spots.
P4: Head up the slab aiming for a right facing corner past a bolt. Look for good holds above your head and have at it (crux 5.7). Ramble left up a finger crack traverse and belay at a tree.
P5: Continue up the route following the obvious line of water scoops to a little alcove and a gear belay.
P6: Surmount the slab - crux 5.7 a little freaky but super fun! Continue right along a small ripple upwards to a huge hole then you have 2 options.
- Option 1 Place a cam high on the flake to create a semi toprope for the second coming across the slab and belay from a tree island below.
- Option 2 continue up a corner to a huge flake and to a tree belay up and left. (If your second is confident then go for option 2 you eliminate a belay)
P7: Ramble up the water scoops (5.easy) and either a gear belay at the overlap just below a big block or do a little simul-climbing so that you can belay from behind the big block.
P8: Ramble up the final easy slab (4th class) to the tree belay at the finish. This route is 2 moderate moves then jug haul flake fest in between. Super fun though a little run out in spots.
Golden, CO
Pitch 4: aim up and left on unprotected slab for the bolt that is BEFORE the corner. The finger crack traverse left above the corner has some glacial polish that is very slick for the feet (hence the climb's name?)
Pitch 5: follow easy crack up and left to alcove
Pitch 6: climb R out of alcove and continue R and up on unprotected slab (5.7) to a 3" hole (perhaps a large tricam here? My #3 Camelot was rattling!) then R to near horizontal crack.
Great climb especially if combined with Rambles. If so, walk 100 feet left on good ledge with trees above the Rambles finish. Friction climb up the whitish part of the slab (unprotected 5.3) to arching crack that becomes the long horizontal crack. Apr 21, 2016
Also found some booty near the route or on the right side that looked relatively new. Attempted retrieval, but it was jammed in there pretty well. Jun 11, 2017
Las Vegas, NV
A few thoughts on the route/rack.
Rack: A single set of cams from green alien to #2 camalot is more than enough. Add a handful of medium stoppers (4 or so), 8 or 10 slings, and you'll be pretty happy.
Pitch 1: Probably start a bit right of Diedre, even though its a bit tougher. If you start up Diedre, a #4 camalot would be nice to protect your second if they are a newish climber- any slip between Diedre and the first set of trees would be a ground fall for the second. 5.5, 150' (only 30' of elevation gain).
Pitch 2: Pretty cruiser walking for a good ways to an obvious stand of trees that let you gain the slab above (we used the sole birch tree). Belay here, or scramble up the slab (p3 in the book). 5.4, 100' Not much gear, I put a #2 in on the weird down-walk.
Pitch 3: Stem off the birch tree and climb the short slab to the trees above, 5.5 slab, 30' no pro at all.
Pitch 4: Crux pitch- head up the easy runout slab (5.5) for 30' to a bolt and do two 5.7 moves before gaining the corner. Follow the cracks up and left to some trees. 5.7, 130'.
Pitch 5: Head up and left to the water runnel and follow this to a nice alcove above some trees. 5.4, 60'.
Pitch 6: Solo up and right on the slab (5.6) for 50' to a hole, then up and right again to the obvious flake system and finally some gear. Follow this up and right until it fades, then head up and left to some trees and belay. 5.6X, 120'
Pitch 7: Head up past two flakes to the water runnels, and then follow this to a stance and belay. 5.4 PG13, 100'
Pitch 8: Head up the flake and other features to the top. 5.4, 170'.
If you're solid on 5.9 or stronger, I'd recommend simul-climbing the first three pitches, then doing Pitch 4 by itself, then link 5&6 and 7&8 with a bit of simul-climbing.
If you're new- this might not be the best choice of a route. There is alot of soloing on this route, and much of it is traversing, making it dicey for both the leader and follower. While the hardest moves are well protected, but everything below 5.7 has spots where you are soloing.
IMHO, this route does not belong in the Squamish Top 100- I definitely wouldn't repeat it. Jul 17, 2017
Also, a great link-up is to climb straight up from the gear belay at the top of p5 of Banana Peel and join into the upper three pitches of Sparrow. Gives a more consistent 5.8 finish. Sep 7, 2017