Type: Trad, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dan Tate, Barry Hagen, July 1965
Page Views: 19,820 total · 139/month
Shared By: Kurt Withers on Mar 21, 2007 with updates from Marielle Breneman
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


147 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

P1+2+3: The start is as for Diedre or to the right up a couple bolts. Climb the slab and then move right along the narrow ledge. Sling tree on the way by. Belay here or sling the tree and stem up onto the slab right in front of you to a tree belay on the left.

P4: Head up the slab aiming for a right facing corner past a bolt. Look for good holds above your head and have at it (crux 5.7). Ramble left up a finger crack traverse and belay at a tree.

P5: Continue up the route following the obvious line of water scoops to a little alcove and a gear belay.

P6: Surmount the slab - crux 5.7 a little freaky but super fun! Continue right along a small ripple upwards to a huge hole then you have 2 options.

  • Option 1 Place a cam high on the flake to create a semi toprope for the second coming across the slab and belay from a tree island below.
  • Option 2 continue up a corner to a huge flake and to a tree belay up and left. (If your second is confident then go for option 2 you eliminate a belay)

P7: Ramble up the water scoops (5.easy) and either a gear belay at the overlap just below a big block or do a little simul-climbing so that you can belay from behind the big block.

P8: Ramble up the final easy slab (4th class) to the tree belay at the finish. This route is 2 moderate moves then jug haul flake fest in between. Super fun though a little run out in spots.

Protection

Standard rack to 2", extra long slings
For the unprotected third pitch, I found it best to stem off the birch tree. You could stem off the other trees, but the slab is a bit harder there. Aug 28, 2015
DanS
  5.7 PG13
DanS  
  5.7 PG13
Crazy fun route! I'd say definitely more than 'just a bit' runout, you could be looking at some pretty heroic falls in certain spots (pitch 4, while on easy slab, is very runout to the one and only bolt on the whole route). Don't bring anything bigger than a BD #2, and utilize runners for the longer pitches (4 and 6 i believe). Get on it! Mar 31, 2016
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Some clarification because if there is not fresh chalk on the climb the easiest way could be a bit confusing to find:
Pitch 4: aim up and left on unprotected slab for the bolt that is BEFORE the corner. The finger crack traverse left above the corner has some glacial polish that is very slick for the feet (hence the climb's name?)
Pitch 5: follow easy crack up and left to alcove
Pitch 6: climb R out of alcove and continue R and up on unprotected slab (5.7) to a 3" hole (perhaps a large tricam here? My #3 Camelot was rattling!) then R to near horizontal crack.
Great climb especially if combined with Rambles. If so, walk 100 feet left on good ledge with trees above the Rambles finish. Friction climb up the whitish part of the slab (unprotected 5.3) to arching crack that becomes the long horizontal crack. Apr 21, 2016
David Runneals
  5.6 PG13
David Runneals  
  5.6 PG13
A great climb that was relatively easy. I would have to say it was on the edge between a 5.6 & 5.7. The first part on the slab was really interesting with no hand holds. First time I've ever had to really trust my shoes. This did boost my confidence when bouldering and climbing now in my gym on slab walls.

Also found some booty near the route or on the right side that looked relatively new. Attempted retrieval, but it was jammed in there pretty well. Jun 11, 2017
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.6 R
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.6 R
This is a decent climb that is probably not really a good idea for beginning trad leaders- while the hardest couple of moves are well protected, there is a fair amount of substantial run-outs on 5.5/5.6 terrain.

A few thoughts on the route/rack.

Rack: A single set of cams from green alien to #2 camalot is more than enough. Add a handful of medium stoppers (4 or so), 8 or 10 slings, and you'll be pretty happy.

Pitch 1: Probably start a bit right of Diedre, even though its a bit tougher. If you start up Diedre, a #4 camalot would be nice to protect your second if they are a newish climber- any slip between Diedre and the first set of trees would be a ground fall for the second. 5.5, 150' (only 30' of elevation gain).

Pitch 2: Pretty cruiser walking for a good ways to an obvious stand of trees that let you gain the slab above (we used the sole birch tree). Belay here, or scramble up the slab (p3 in the book). 5.4, 100' Not much gear, I put a #2 in on the weird down-walk.

Pitch 3: Stem off the birch tree and climb the short slab to the trees above, 5.5 slab, 30' no pro at all.

Pitch 4: Crux pitch- head up the easy runout slab (5.5) for 30' to a bolt and do two 5.7 moves before gaining the corner. Follow the cracks up and left to some trees. 5.7, 130'.

Pitch 5: Head up and left to the water runnel and follow this to a nice alcove above some trees. 5.4, 60'.

Pitch 6: Solo up and right on the slab (5.6) for 50' to a hole, then up and right again to the obvious flake system and finally some gear. Follow this up and right until it fades, then head up and left to some trees and belay. 5.6X, 120'

Pitch 7: Head up past two flakes to the water runnels, and then follow this to a stance and belay. 5.4 PG13, 100'

Pitch 8: Head up the flake and other features to the top. 5.4, 170'.

If you're solid on 5.9 or stronger, I'd recommend simul-climbing the first three pitches, then doing Pitch 4 by itself, then link 5&6 and 7&8 with a bit of simul-climbing.

If you're new- this might not be the best choice of a route. There is alot of soloing on this route, and much of it is traversing, making it dicey for both the leader and follower. While the hardest moves are well protected, but everything below 5.7 has spots where you are soloing.

IMHO, this route does not belong in the Squamish Top 100- I definitely wouldn't repeat it. Jul 17, 2017
Dru B.
  5.7
Dru B.  
  5.7
It's relatively easy to climb a variant, basically unprotected p2 which slab climbs up to the higher fault, instead of continuing to traverse the lower fault to the birch tree. This avoids the easiest shuffling on route. From tree belay, walk right 20 feet to join into p3 above the stem-off-the-birch tree move.

Also, a great link-up is to climb straight up from the gear belay at the top of p5 of Banana Peel and join into the upper three pitches of Sparrow. Gives a more consistent 5.8 finish. Sep 7, 2017
joules eaton  
 
Lots of fun. The crux for me was the traverse near the the top of P4---not slipping on glacial polish while reaching for the next good hand. The runout on P6 is maybe 30 feet and has good friction. I was psyched out heading into it based on the other comments but it wasn't too bad. Aug 15, 2018