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Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dan Tate, Barry Hagen, July 1965
Page Views: 13,964 total · 105/month
Shared By: Kurt Withers on Mar 21, 2007 with updates
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route

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P1+2+3: The start is as for Diedre or to the right up a couple bolts. Climb the slab and then move right along the narrow ledge. Sling tree on the way by. Belay here or sling the tree and stem up onto the slab right in front of you to a tree belay on the left.

P4: Head up the slab aiming for a right facing corner past a bolt. Look for good holds above your head and have at it (crux 5.7). Ramble left up a finger crack traverse and belay at a tree.

P5: Continue up the route following the obvious line of water scoops to a little alcove and a gear belay.

P6: Surmount the slab - crux 5.7 a little freaky but super fun! Continue right along a small ripple upwards to a huge hole then you have 2 options.

  • Option 1 Place a cam high on the flake to create a semi toprope for the second coming across the slab and belay from a tree island below.
  • Option 2 continue up a corner to a huge flake and to a tree belay up and left. (If your second is confident then go for option 2 you eliminate a belay)

P7: Ramble up the water scoops (5.easy) and either a gear belay at the overlap just below a big block or do a little simul-climbing so that you can belay from behind the big block.

P8: Ramble up the final easy slab (4th class) to the tree belay at the finish. This route is 2 moderate moves then jug haul flake fest in between. Super fun though a little run out in spots.


Standard rack to 2", extra long slings
It's relatively easy to climb a variant, basically unprotected p2 which slab climbs up to the higher fault, instead of continuing to traverse the lower fault to the birch tree. This avoids the easiest shuffling on route. From tree belay, walk right 20 feet to join into p3 above the stem-off-the-birch tree move.

Also, a great link-up is to climb straight up from the gear belay at the top of p5 of Banana Peel and join into the upper three pitches of Sparrow. Gives a more consistent 5.8 finish. Sep 7, 2017
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.6 R
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.6 R
This is a decent climb that is probably not really a good idea for beginning trad leaders- while the hardest couple of moves are well protected, there is a fair amount of substantial run-outs on 5.5/5.6 terrain.

A few thoughts on the route/rack.

Rack: A single set of cams from green alien to #2 camalot is more than enough. Add a handful of medium stoppers (4 or so), 8 or 10 slings, and you'll be pretty happy.

Pitch 1: Probably start a bit right of Diedre, even though its a bit tougher. If you start up Diedre, a #4 camalot would be nice to protect your second if they are a newish climber- any slip between Diedre and the first set of trees would be a ground fall for the second. 5.5, 150' (only 30' of elevation gain).

Pitch 2: Pretty cruiser walking for a good ways to an obvious stand of trees that let you gain the slab above (we used the sole birch tree). Belay here, or scramble up the slab (p3 in the book). 5.4, 100' Not much gear, I put a #2 in on the weird down-walk.

Pitch 3: Stem off the birch tree and climb the short slab to the trees above, 5.5 slab, 30' no pro at all.

Pitch 4: Crux pitch- head up the easy runout slab (5.5) for 30' to a bolt and do two 5.7 moves before gaining the corner. Follow the cracks up and left to some trees. 5.7, 130'.

Pitch 5: Head up and left to the water runnel and follow this to a nice alcove above some trees. 5.4, 60'.

Pitch 6: Solo up and right on the slab (5.6) for 50' to a hole, then up and right again to the obvious flake system and finally some gear. Follow this up and right until it fades, then head up and left to some trees and belay. 5.6X, 120'

Pitch 7: Head up past two flakes to the water runnels, and then follow this to a stance and belay. 5.4 PG13, 100'

Pitch 8: Head up the flake and other features to the top. 5.4, 170'.

If you're solid on 5.9 or stronger, I'd recommend simul-climbing the first three pitches, then doing Pitch 4 by itself, then link 5&6 and 7&8 with a bit of simul-climbing.

If you're new- this might not be the best choice of a route. There is alot of soloing on this route, and much of it is traversing, making it dicey for both the leader and follower. While the hardest moves are well protected, but everything below 5.7 has spots where you are soloing.

IMHO, this route does not belong in the Squamish Top 100- I definitely wouldn't repeat it. Jul 17, 2017
David Runneals
  5.6 PG13
David Runneals  
  5.6 PG13
A great climb that was relatively easy. I would have to say it was on the edge between a 5.6 & 5.7. The first part on the slab was really interesting with no hand holds. First time I've ever had to really trust my shoes. This did boost my confidence when bouldering and climbing now in my gym on slab walls.

Also found some booty near the route or on the right side that looked relatively new. Attempted retrieval, but it was jammed in there pretty well. Jun 11, 2017
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Some clarification because if there is not fresh chalk on the climb the easiest way could be a bit confusing to find:
Pitch 4: aim up and left on unprotected slab for the bolt that is BEFORE the corner. The finger crack traverse left above the corner has some glacial polish that is very slick for the feet (hence the climb's name?)
Pitch 5: follow easy crack up and left to alcove
Pitch 6: climb R out of alcove and continue R and up on unprotected slab (5.7) to a 3" hole (perhaps a large tricam here? My #3 Camelot was rattling!) then R to near horizontal crack.
Great climb especially if combined with Rambles. If so, walk 100 feet left on good ledge with trees above the Rambles finish. Friction climb up the whitish part of the slab (unprotected 5.3) to arching crack that becomes the long horizontal crack. Apr 21, 2016
  5.7 PG13
  5.7 PG13
Crazy fun route! I'd say definitely more than 'just a bit' runout, you could be looking at some pretty heroic falls in certain spots (pitch 4, while on easy slab, is very runout to the one and only bolt on the whole route). Don't bring anything bigger than a BD #2, and utilize runners for the longer pitches (4 and 6 i believe). Get on it! Mar 31, 2016
For the unprotected third pitch, I found it best to stem off the birch tree. You could stem off the other trees, but the slab is a bit harder there. Aug 28, 2015

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