Type: Trad, Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: K. McLane, S. Beliveau, October 2003
Page Views: 12,372 total · 65/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Jun 21, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

So, you've done Diedre, and maybe Snake too, and you want to hone your friction technique or decide if upping the grade on slab appeals to you: Over The Rainbow is the route for you!

This relatively new Apron climb manages to stay very sustained at 5.8 and 5.9, without venturing into 5.10a for more than a move or two. It's mostly bolted, but some cams are pretty much mandatory, and you'll have a piece or bolt no more than 20 feet below you, which sounds good on paper, but keeps you honest when it's for real, but isn't anywhere near as bad as some of the Apron friction horror shows.

P1: Start as for Diedre but at the horizontal break follow about three bolts to a two-bolt anchor in a concavity. (5.9)

P2: Climb left and then back right following the line of least resistance and a couple of bolts into some easier terrain to the next two-bolt anchor. (5.8+)

P3: While it will be tempting to link this with P2, reconsider. This pitch is the most sustained on the route, although maybe not the crux. Four bolts take you to a section where the dishes and edges have disappeared and you are back to pure friction, but on a slightly more amenable angle. Sticking a cam into the undercling crack on the left will feel good (the crack is a part of the route Sickle). Continue right (possible belay here) and pull the overlap at the tree. A bolt protects one more thin move to the Sickle Ledge. (5.9)

P4. Move the belay to the middle of the ledge, just below the continuation of the bolt line. Follow the bolts to an unclinging arch (a few cams, many options for size). Get above the arch and continue along the bolt line. (5.10a)

P5. Slab climbing is about subtlety and here the rock undergoes a subtle change which gives this climb some interesting variety. It's a minor change, but just as you've dialed-in the friction on the previous pitches, you have to adjust for the more textured but steeper rock here. The line is obvious given the bolts and scrubbed texture. (5.10a)

P6. A fairly short pitch of 5.6 takes you to Broad way ledge. Can definitely be linked with P5 with a 70m rope, and likely with a 60m (but not certain).

McLane calls this route 7 pitches, likely due to breaking up P3, but this doesn't seem necessary. Most parties will do it in 5 pitches (as described above plus linking the last two).

This route is named for and memorializes Guy Edwards, a local climber and character who was killed in an avalanche.

Location Suggest change

Start as for Diedre.

Protection Suggest change

Six or seven draws/slings plus a single set of cams from .5 to 3 inches.

Photos

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