Avg: 2.8 from 99 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||K. McLane, S. Beliveau, October 2003|
|Page Views:||10,068 total · 62/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Spindloe on Jun 21, 2008|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. These closures will be updates as more assessments are completed.
Grand Wall Closure Area
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack), the Undertow bouldering area and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Bouldering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Western Dihedrals Closure Area
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Closure map to be posted shortly.
Slhanay Closure Area
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
This relatively new Apron climb manages to stay very sustained at 5.8 and 5.9, without venturing into 5.10a for more than a move or two. It's mostly bolted, but some cams are pretty much mandatory, and you'll have a piece or bolt no more than 20 feet below you, which sounds good on paper, but keeps you honest when it's for real, but isn't anywhere near as bad as some of the Apron friction horror shows.
P1: Start as for Diedre but at the horizontal break follow about three bolts to a two-bolt anchor in a concavity. (5.9)
P2: Climb left and then back right following the line of least resistance and a couple of bolts into some easier terrain to the next two-bolt anchor. (5.8+)
P3: While it will be tempting to link this with P2, reconsider. This pitch is the most sustained on the route, although maybe not the crux. Four bolts take you to a section where the dishes and edges have disappeared and you are back to pure friction, but on a slightly more amenable angle. Sticking a cam into the undercling crack on the left will feel good (the crack is a part of the route Sickle). Continue right (possible belay here) and pull the overlap at the tree. A bolt protects one more thin move to the Sickle Ledge. (5.9)
P4. Move the belay to the middle of the ledge, just below the continuation of the bolt line. Follow the bolts to an unclinging arch (a few cams, many options for size). Get above the arch and continue along the bolt line. (5.10a)
P5. Slab climbing is about subtlety and here the rock undergoes a subtle change which gives this climb some interesting variety. It's a minor change, but just as you've dialed-in the friction on the previous pitches, you have to adjust for the more textured but steeper rock here. The line is obvious given the bolts and scrubbed texture. (5.10a)
P6. A fairly short pitch of 5.6 takes you to Broad way ledge. Can definitely be linked with P5 with a 70m rope, and likely with a 60m (but not certain).
McLane calls this route 7 pitches, likely due to breaking up P3, but this doesn't seem necessary. Most parties will do it in 5 pitches (as described above plus linking the last two).
This route is named for and memorializes Guy Edwards, a local climber and character who was killed in an avalanche.