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Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Terry Rollerson, Frank Bauman
Page Views: 389 total · 14/month
Shared By: Kate Lynn on May 25, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

A variation to Slab Alley situated between it and banana peel. Wandery runout slab with some bolts.

Restored in 2010-2011 by Anders Ourom: squamishclimbing.com/squami…

p1 - 5.9 (50 m): Start up the first pitch of Slab Alley and climb to the headwall/trees. Now instead of going right and up, climb the tree and the flake behind it. Be gentle with the tree! Muscle up and left onto easier terrain and trend left to a tree and then up about to the bolted anchor at the end of the second pitch of Slab Alley.

p2 - 5.8 (15 m): Traverse left along the crack to a point directly below a groove/crack with shrubs in it, about a pitch above. This is about half way from the Slab Alley belay to the tree bay on Banana Peel.

p3 - 5.8 (50 m): Follow up the cleaned streak up and left to a bolt, back right and up to a second bolt, left to below the groove and then finally up into the groove. Somewhat runout.

p4 - 5.7 (30 m): Straight up the groove/crack past trees , then when it peters out, there's a spicy 5.9 slab to a large tree ledge. Comparable to Sparrow or Snake.

p5 - 5.7 (60 m): Links back into SA. Up and a bit right from the ledge to a bolt, zig zag up a slab that eases into a small corner with a nice cedar. Continue up the corner to its end, then right into the fifth pitch of Slab Alley.

Location

Start up the apron walk off trail and head left up under the power lines up to the start of slab alley. Route starts the same and then trends up and left to wander between slab alley and banana peel

Protection

rare bolts and SR to 2"

Photos

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Be prepared to do some light gardening as Pineapple Peel receives few visitors and the cracks do fill-in will all manner of detritus.

Definitely more of an old school feel with few bolts and some options as for which direction to head. You could call this route a little spicy, but nothing too bold.

A nice climb to remind you of how Squamish climbs look without love and attention. May 31, 2018
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9 PG13
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9 PG13
Some tricky routefinding on this one, so I'll give my two cents so hopefully the next climber will be well-equipped.

p1: Slab and layback up an arch, climb the tree and pull through a few moves of steep left-leaning fingers (crux) to mantle on a walkable slab. Make sure you place a piece right after you mantle to protect your second. Walk left for fifteen feet, then slab climb up (unprotected, 5.5) to a two-bolt anchor at a tree in a fault. 5.9.

p2: Traverse left along the horizontal fault. Basically walking with a move or two off the anchor that's a little tricky. The crux of this pitch is knowing where to stop and place the anchor. If you look up as you're traversing you might catch glimpse of a bolt - this will be the second bolt of the route, and is about 20 feet to the right of the first bolt which you can't really see until you start climbing. I like Kate's advice to stop half way between the last belay and the Banana Peel tree bay. 5.7.

p3: Wandery pitch. I'm not sure if I started in the right place, but I started stemming up a tree before committing to 30 feet of unprotected slab. Starts at 5.8, but levels out after the first 15/20 feet. Clip a bolt, extend it and walk to the right to clip the next bolt. Mantle up and walk left for a good long while, aiming for the series of four or so small trees that all find themselves in a subtle groove. I went up to the left of the black streak. You do have pull a 5.6/5.7 slab move to reach a jug, which is technically quite run out but you'd be unlikely to fall past your bolt due to the angle of the wall. Choose which thin tree you want to make your anchor - though I was wondering if, with a 70m rope, you could go all the way to the big treed ledge linking p3 with p4. 5.8.

p4: Short pitch to the ledge. Up a crack to a 5.9 unprotected slab section. I've seen it compared to Snake, but this is definitely friendlier. You get maybe a 15 foot runout, and while the fall wouldn't be great (trees, your belayer) it's not dangerous. 5.9.

p5: I went up to join Slab Alley. Climb up to the bolt and keep slabbing until you mantle up and can walk right. Keep walking right until you enter the Elephant Steps pitch, which is really fun. You won't make it to the bolted anchor, but you can set a comfy gear belay (0.75/#1 Camalots) in a crack 40 feet below it. The next pitch is a rope-stretcher with a 70m, so place the anchor higher in the crack if you can. 5.7.

p6: Climb straight up the groove, clip the bolt, slab climb on good friction to a belay anchor. If you have a 60m, belay here. If you have a 70m, clip the anchor and keep padding all the way to Broadway Ledge. I think a more chill variation traverses left into Banana Peel, but this pitch has some invigorating spacing between bolts and is quite pleasant as a straight shot. Belay off a tree. 5.7.

Not a bad route, but honestly the pitches I thought were most fun were the Slab Alley pitches. Sep 3, 2018

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