Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Terry Rollerson, Frank Bauman
Page Views: 425 total · 14/month
Shared By: Kate Lynn on May 25, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

A variation to Slab Alley situated between it and banana peel. Wandery runout slab with some bolts.

Restored in 2010-2011 by Anders Ourom: squamishclimbing.com/squami…

p1 - 5.9 (50 m): Start up the first pitch of Slab Alley and climb to the headwall/trees. Now instead of going right and up, climb the tree and the flake behind it. Be gentle with the tree! Muscle up and left onto easier terrain and trend left to a tree and then up about to the bolted anchor at the end of the second pitch of Slab Alley.

p2 - 5.8 (15 m): Traverse left along the crack to a point directly below a groove/crack with shrubs in it, about a pitch above. This is about half way from the Slab Alley belay to the tree bay on Banana Peel.

p3 - 5.8 (50 m): Follow up the cleaned streak up and left to a bolt, back right and up to a second bolt, left to below the groove and then finally up into the groove. Somewhat runout.

p4 - 5.7 (30 m): Straight up the groove/crack past trees , then when it peters out, there's a spicy 5.9 slab to a large tree ledge. Comparable to Sparrow or Snake.

p5 - 5.7 (60 m): Links back into SA. Up and a bit right from the ledge to a bolt, zig zag up a slab that eases into a small corner with a nice cedar. Continue up the corner to its end, then right into the fifth pitch of Slab Alley.

Location

Start up the apron walk off trail and head left up under the power lines up to the start of slab alley. Route starts the same and then trends up and left to wander between slab alley and banana peel

Protection

rare bolts and SR to 2"

Photos

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Be prepared to do some light gardening as Pineapple Peel receives few visitors and the cracks do fill-in will all manner of detritus.

Definitely more of an old school feel with few bolts and some options as for which direction to head. You could call this route a little spicy, but nothing too bold.

A nice climb to remind you of how Squamish climbs look without love and attention. May 31, 2018
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9 PG13
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9 PG13
Some tricky routefinding on this one, so I'll give my two cents so hopefully the next climber will be well-equipped.

p1: Slab and layback up an arch, climb the tree and pull through a few moves of steep left-leaning fingers (crux) to mantle on a walkable slab. Make sure you place a piece right after you mantle to protect your second. Walk left for fifteen feet, then slab climb up (unprotected, 5.5) to a two-bolt anchor at a tree in a fault. 5.9.

p2: Traverse left along the horizontal fault. Basically walking with a move or two off the anchor that's a little tricky. The crux of this pitch is knowing where to stop and place the anchor. If you look up as you're traversing you might catch glimpse of a bolt - this will be the second bolt of the route, and is about 20 feet to the right of the first bolt which you can't really see until you start climbing. I like Kate's advice to stop half way between the last belay and the Banana Peel tree bay. 5.7.

p3: Wandery pitch. I'm not sure if I started in the right place, but I started stemming up a tree before committing to 30 feet of unprotected slab. Starts at 5.8, but levels out after the first 15/20 feet. Clip a bolt, extend it and walk to the right to clip the next bolt. Mantle up and walk left for a good long while, aiming for the series of four or so small trees that all find themselves in a subtle groove. I went up to the left of the black streak. You do have pull a 5.6/5.7 slab move to reach a jug, which is technically quite run out but you'd be unlikely to fall past your bolt due to the angle of the wall. Choose which thin tree you want to make your anchor - though I was wondering if, with a 70m rope, you could go all the way to the big treed ledge linking p3 with p4. 5.8.

p4: Short pitch to the ledge. Up a crack to a 5.9 unprotected slab section. I've seen it compared to Snake, but this is definitely friendlier. You get maybe a 15 foot runout, and while the fall wouldn't be great (trees, your belayer) it's not dangerous. 5.9.

p5: I went up to join Slab Alley. Climb up to the bolt and keep slabbing until you mantle up and can walk right. Keep walking right until you enter the Elephant Steps pitch, which is really fun. You won't make it to the bolted anchor, but you can set a comfy gear belay (0.75/#1 Camalots) in a crack 40 feet below it. The next pitch is a rope-stretcher with a 70m, so place the anchor higher in the crack if you can. 5.7.

p6: Climb straight up the groove, clip the bolt, slab climb on good friction to a belay anchor. If you have a 60m, belay here. If you have a 70m, clip the anchor and keep padding all the way to Broadway Ledge. I think a more chill variation traverses left into Banana Peel, but this pitch has some invigorating spacing between bolts and is quite pleasant as a straight shot. Belay off a tree. 5.7.

Not a bad route, but honestly the pitches I thought were most fun were the Slab Alley pitches. Sep 3, 2018