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The Main Cliff Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 2,241 ft |
| GPS: | 44.39, -72.85 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 24,436 total · 263/month |
| Shared By: | Kris Fiore on Sep 26, 2011 |
| Admins: | Luc-514, Kris Fiore |
Access Issue: 2019 Falcon Closure:
Details
2019 Closure area is as follows:
The Solstice Slab is OPEN to climbing. The Marrow Wall and Moose Bones Area are both closed. The Tradisfaction Wall is OPEN.
This year's nesting site is directly on the route Hex in a Haystack.
The Solstice Slab is OPEN to climbing. The Marrow Wall and Moose Bones Area are both closed. The Tradisfaction Wall is OPEN.
This year's nesting site is directly on the route Hex in a Haystack.
Description
The Main Cliff is the premier attraction at Bone Mountain. It is a large, unbroken cliff band that houses several high-quality mixed routes. Historically, the routes ascended only the left end and stayed to the corners, cracks, and weaknesses. In recent years, however, the faces and harder trad lines are starting to fill out as well.
Currently, there are about 50 routes on the Main Cliff ... shocking (well, not really considering the approach to the cliff itself), as the cliff runs for over a 1/4 of a mile, wrapping around the large buttress looming over Interstate 89.
Routes on the main cliff are guarded by a somewhat complex maze of talus. The further right you go, the easier the forested talus is. The right end of the main cliff has no talus. There is still a lot of untapped rock to be found although dedication, perseverance, and patience are obligatory for route development here. Great lines include:
Eye in the Sky (5.10b)
Family Picnic (5.7)
Fuck Rumney (5.11a),
Compound Fracture (5.10a)
Flippin' the Bird (5.9)
Schistorectomy (5.10b)
Lost in the Forest (5.8+)
The Schistine Chapel (5.11c)
50 Sent (5.9)
Dust-In Bones (5.9)
The Biter (5.10d)
Don't Doubt the Dojo (5.10b)
Xiphoid Process (5.11b)
(Chris Duca on Sep 26, 2011)
Updated April 2016
Currently, there are about 50 routes on the Main Cliff ... shocking (well, not really considering the approach to the cliff itself), as the cliff runs for over a 1/4 of a mile, wrapping around the large buttress looming over Interstate 89.
Routes on the main cliff are guarded by a somewhat complex maze of talus. The further right you go, the easier the forested talus is. The right end of the main cliff has no talus. There is still a lot of untapped rock to be found although dedication, perseverance, and patience are obligatory for route development here. Great lines include:
Eye in the Sky (5.10b)
Family Picnic (5.7)
Fuck Rumney (5.11a),
Compound Fracture (5.10a)
Flippin' the Bird (5.9)
Schistorectomy (5.10b)
Lost in the Forest (5.8+)
The Schistine Chapel (5.11c)
50 Sent (5.9)
Dust-In Bones (5.9)
The Biter (5.10d)
Don't Doubt the Dojo (5.10b)
Xiphoid Process (5.11b)
(Chris Duca on Sep 26, 2011)
Updated April 2016
Areas from left to right
Left End - The old adventure routes of the 90s.
Middle Cliff Routes - Mix of old and new routes. Some hard stuff.
Radius Wall - 3 long, enjoyable mixed sport lines.
Solstice Slab - Excellent beginner trad climbing.
Marrow Wall - Easy wandering trad lines.
Moose Bones - Two roof cracks, a 5.9 gear route, and a hard bolted line.
Tradisfaction Wall - New routes. Excellent trad 5.9 to mid 5.11 and two 5.12s
Middle Cliff Routes - Mix of old and new routes. Some hard stuff.
Radius Wall - 3 long, enjoyable mixed sport lines.
Solstice Slab - Excellent beginner trad climbing.
Marrow Wall - Easy wandering trad lines.
Moose Bones - Two roof cracks, a 5.9 gear route, and a hard bolted line.
Tradisfaction Wall - New routes. Excellent trad 5.9 to mid 5.11 and two 5.12s
Getting There
Comprehensive directions can be found on the Bone Mountain main page and directions to each wall can be found via the pages for those walls.
Peregrine Falcon Closure
With more climbers visiting Bone Mountain the state has taken a closer look at the Peregrine Falcon nesting. This is actually a benefit for climbers as the entire cliff used to close but we now have partial closures in effect.
The last few years nesting sites have been on the buttress to the right of Solstice Slab as well as atop the Moose Bones routes. Expect from Solstice Slab to Moose Bones to be closed. Anything left of Solstice Slab or right of Moose Bones seems to give the raptors enough room to be happy but as always use good judgement.
The last few years nesting sites have been on the buttress to the right of Solstice Slab as well as atop the Moose Bones routes. Expect from Solstice Slab to Moose Bones to be closed. Anything left of Solstice Slab or right of Moose Bones seems to give the raptors enough room to be happy but as always use good judgement.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Main Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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