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Modern Times 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dick WIlliams, Dave Craft, & Brian Carey - 1964
Page Views: 14,554
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (151)
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Gwen Schwimmer on the first pitch.
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Modern Times pulls a pretty wild roof on the second pitch -- hard to believe it's only 5.8+.

Use the High Exposure access trail to reach Modern Times. This is about a 17-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 13-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

Start 30' left of High Exposure below a slabby left-facing corner.

P1: Climb the corner and angle right to a dirt ledge. Climb up and a bit left and pass an overhang (crux) to the GT ledge. 5.7, 150'.

P2: Go 20' left and climb to the top of a huge flake. Traverse right to a notch in the roof at the top of the wall (there's a small tree growing horizontally out of the roof). Pull the roof (crux), continue up right past more overhangs, and traverse right to a belay on a small ledge. 5.8+, 100'.

Bring up your partner, then scramble to the top.


Protection 

Standard Rack.



Photos of Modern Times Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff Arliss dispensing with footwork.
Jeff Arliss dispensing with footwork.
Someone heading "out" the 2nd pitch <br />(taken from the ground...)
BETA PHOTO: Someone heading "out" the 2nd pitch
(taken from th...
In the middle of the P1 overhang.
In the middle of the P1 overhang.
Mike Amato firing the wild crux of Modern Times.  Can you believe this move is only rated 5.8+?
Mike Amato firing the wild crux of Modern Times. ...
Below the overhang on P1.
Below the overhang on P1.
1976 pulling the crux roof. Exit Stage Left and Gem's Gym cut through the roofs further left. Psychedelic (5.8 and wild) climbs near the right edge of the photo.
1976 pulling the crux roof. Exit Stage Left and Ge...
Alan Brunelle going for it! August 31st 1992.
Alan Brunelle going for it! August 31st 1992.
In the roof
In the roof
Alan Brunelle getting ready for the roof, August 31st 1992.
Alan Brunelle getting ready for the roof, August 3...
JD and I climbing Modern Times. This picture is a bit blurry, but his expression and body position above the final roof say it all!
JD and I climbing Modern Times. This picture is a ...
Just finishing the roof
Just finishing the roof
A View from the crux move of Modern Times
A View from the crux move of Modern Times
It's about to get so good!
It's about to get so good!
Comments on Modern Times Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 14, 2014
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 27, 2006

Fun face climbing on the first pitch, and classic, pumpy Gunks overhangs on the second. This route would be solid 5.9 at many other climbing areas. Two kneebar rests can be found on the second-pitch overhangs to ease the pump factor.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Regardless of its traditional grade, let's call a spade a spade. I think this route is 5.9... even in the Gunks.

By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
May 9, 2006

The roofs seemed much easier the second time. A) Because I was following this time and B) because I used the killer undercling to reach over the first/largest roof. Gaining the final ledge is the crux for me, as the flakes in front of you are super loose (like don't grab them at all) and it requires a high right foot and SCARY manteling, with huge swing potential.

By GoBotRocker
From: Spfld, Ma
Jul 4, 2006

As good as it's gonna get. It's a "reach and pullathon".

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Oct 23, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I believe it really is 5.8, but not if you try to pull the last roof too early. You really want to do a low traverse, and then mantle once you get to where the hands and feet are better.

By Mr. Malloc
Nov 17, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The most sand-bagged route in the Gunks. So many people have fallen off this route. The most exposure you can have without a license.

Try the exciting variation that I call Post-Modern times, if you dare...and you feel up to a 5.10a or 5.10b pump-fest. From the tree that sticks straight out from the cliff in the last pitch....instead of going up and right...go straight right...your hands stay at the tree level as you traverse for 20 feet. As you go, do chin-ups to place big (Yellow and Blue Camalots) in the perfect crack. As you traverse, your foot holds move farther away and then come back again. Just before you get to the grassy section, pull up through the 1-foot roof and finish on the clean face above.

Tell me how you like it.

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

follower needs to be solid or know how to prusik!

By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Sep 6, 2008

Buy the guide to the Gunks by Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn and your prayers will be answered...Modern Times is now 5.10 b/c.

By eric larson
From: aurora, co
Dec 16, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

"Modern Times is now 5.10 b/c"
damn.. that's a wee bit inflated.. compared to other solid 10s in the gunks this felt much easier.. pumpy sure, but no individual moves were that hard.. Moves on, say Feast of Fools, are harder, and I felt the route was just as pumpy.

Besides, half the fun of this route is that it goes at 5.8+.. sandbagged a bit.. sure.. but that's the best part! The + just means exciting!

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Aug 10, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I agree Eric, the sandbag is fun ~ at least AFTER you climb it. Is it really 5.10 now???

BETA>>> Gabe is right! First time around, I tried to pull the last roof early and mantle up, mainly because the small horizontals to my right did not look very good, needless to say I went for the big ride. On my second try, I stayed low and moved further right before moving up and I found it to be MUCH easier!

By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Aug 26, 2009

Wild, wild crux. Went up, in the notch (just right of the tree), couldn't get feet up; went up again, tried to use crimpers up on the slabby face, came back down; finally traversed right 10 feet or so and pushed out the huge mantle. Wild.

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Nov 20, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Feels solid 5.9 especially since you will likely be placing gear at the crux. But hey, it's the Gunks so it doesn't shock me that people say it is 5.8.

By Dave Schultz
From: Everett, Washington
May 15, 2012

This route is incredible. I will say that the first pitch is (relatively) boring, and most of the second pitch is boring, but that roof pull is out of this world. I think I will try and climb this route every time I am at the Gunks. I used a GoPro and got a great video of the roof:

.

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Aug 28, 2013

Great video, Dave. Classic Gunks, where gravity plays tricks and it's never entirely clear which way is up (or down, for that matter). Love the helmet scraping sounds (glad that's not your head---ouch!) Some viewers may want to take some Dramamine before watching (LOL)!

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jan 14, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Seriously nice video Dave - thanks for the share. Definitely gives the viewer the sensation of squirreliness one feels when climbing the route....