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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hans Krauss, Susanne Simon 1944
Page Views: 1,895 total · 17/month
Shared By: Artem Lebedev on Oct 6, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

P1: (5.6) Climb up the right-facing broken corner to the ledge, then climb up a crack with a small tree (V1). Continue on the easier ground above the tree, make a balancey move up a headwall (crux), and then climb up to the GT ledge. This pitch is a nice and well-protected outing, and you can traverse to the last pitches of routes between Snake and Arrow.

P2: (5.7) Climb a huge right-facing corner, pass a bush, choke off grass and a big tree. Continue up the crack (hand to fist jam at the bottom, chicken wing at the top) to the ledge with rap slings.

V1 5.8 G FA: Joe Bridges, Dick Williams, 1987
From the Snake crack move out left and climb difficult looking finger-crack through an overhanging bulge.

It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.

Location

Begins 40 ft right of Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct, half way up the slope towards Red Pillar.

Protection

Standard rack, big cams (BD #3-5) for the second pitch

Photos

Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
Agree with all prev. comments. P2 is pretty stiff for the grade; lots of crumbly lichen, moss, dirt, sod, dead branches. A bit of cleaning with your nut tool will expose some usable cracks. There is a rapp station on a tree 10 ft. left of the top. Jun 23, 2014
I thought this climb was pretty awesome. Make sure you go left at the tree and don't place anything to the right after you pass it. Felt like I was dragging a Volkswagen up with me through the crux. Also, people, keep checking those pins! I clipped one on this route only to have it pull out when I gave the draw a little tug. Nov 1, 2013
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
 
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
 
This route is easy to protect on the first pitch and has much better climbing than appears likely from the ground. I agree this would be a superb route for a new 5.6 leader. Also, its deceptively unappealing start means it's more likely to be available.

We finished on what I believe was the 3rd pitch of Steep Hiking, which the Williams guide puts at 5.6 and I'd have rated 5.7 or 5.8 (but I haven't climbed a lot whole lot of slab in the past decade so maybe it was just me.) It was the relatively lichen-free strip about 15 feet over from the dirty corner where Snake finishes. A bit runout between stellar gear placements. Sep 16, 2013
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
P1 is a lot of fun. Easy peasy climbing leads to a mellow crux, back to easy peasy. Great for a newb follower. Jun 16, 2012
doligo
  5.6 PG13
doligo  
  5.6 PG13
The headwall on P1 is a committing fingercrack move - stiff for the grade if you are short. Bring smaller stoppers to backup the old pin (I used a BD #2). I agree that P2 could be interesting, but it's dirty, grassy and the bush is about to fall off any minute. There is no pro till the the tree ledge some 50ft up (I didn't bring any big cams for this). The OW on top looked fun, but the face is covered in moss, so I backed off. Funny thing, I saw a black snake at the start of the climb as well! Jun 6, 2010
Artem Lebedev
Santa Monica, CA
 
Artem Lebedev   Santa Monica, CA
 
Although the guidebooks do not recommend the second pitch, I found it very interesting and challenging. Rare example of non-trivial crack in Gunks. Admittedly, it is wet and dirty. Oct 6, 2008