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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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City Streets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Never Say Never T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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On Any Monday T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X |
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Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smegma Garden and Pigeon T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wild Horses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Hans Krauss, Susanne Simon 1944 |
| Page Views: | 2,590 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Artem Lebedev on Oct 6, 2008 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
P1: (5.6) Climb up the right-facing broken corner to the ledge, then climb up a crack with a small tree (V1). Continue on the easier ground above the tree, make a balancey move up a headwall (crux), and then climb up to the GT ledge. This pitch is a nice and well-protected outing, and you can traverse to the last pitches of routes between Snake and Arrow.
P2: (5.7) Climb a huge right-facing corner, pass a bush, choke off grass and a big tree. Continue up the crack (hand to fist jam at the bottom, chicken wing at the top) to the ledge with rap slings.
V1 5.8 G FA: Joe Bridges, Dick Williams, 1987
From the Snake crack move out left and climb difficult looking finger-crack through an overhanging bulge.
It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.
P2: (5.7) Climb a huge right-facing corner, pass a bush, choke off grass and a big tree. Continue up the crack (hand to fist jam at the bottom, chicken wing at the top) to the ledge with rap slings.
V1 5.8 G FA: Joe Bridges, Dick Williams, 1987
From the Snake crack move out left and climb difficult looking finger-crack through an overhanging bulge.
It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.
Location
Begins 40 ft right of Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct, half way up the slope towards Red Pillar.
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