5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.6 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|Page Views:||1,908 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||lucander on Feb 8, 2012 · Updates|
|Admins:||Morgan Patterson, RJ B|
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Start at Triangle.
Climb up 10-15', then make a heady traverse right to a stance. Continue up the face following a left-facing corner system. Stuff the vertical crack with pro and make a hard move. With gear at your feet, make another difficult move (reach) to a horizontal, then traverse right to a stance (whew). Delicately move up by stepping on the precarious block and then over to the Never Never Land bolted anchors.
Never Better Variation: After the crux move left on a wide horizontal and then straight up. Once on the ledge move hard right to the NNL anchor. Make sure to save some finger sized pieces for a directional for your second. The variation features beautiful face climbing on steep rock. Although you still need to do the lower crux with a descent runout this section of climbing is fairly well protected. GunksApp says with the variation this is the best route on the wall and I wouldn’t disagree.