Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Rich Ross
Page Views: 2,097 total · 14/month
Shared By: lucander on Feb 8, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route

13 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Start at Triangle.

Climb up 10-15', then make a heady traverse right to a stance. Continue up the face following a left-facing corner system. Stuff the vertical crack with pro and make a hard move. With gear at your feet, make another difficult move (reach) to a horizontal, then traverse right to a stance (whew). Delicately move up by stepping on the precarious block and then over to the Never Never Land bolted anchors.

Never Better Variation: After the crux move left on a wide horizontal and then straight up.  Once on the ledge move hard right to the NNL anchor.  Make sure to save some finger sized pieces for a directional for your second.  The variation features beautiful face climbing on steep rock.  Although you still need to do the lower crux with a descent runout this section of climbing is fairly well protected.  GunksApp says with the variation this is the best route on the wall and I wouldn’t disagree.

Protection Suggest change

purple c3 to 2 or 3"