Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rich Ross
Page Views: 1,273 total · 15/month
Shared By: lucander on Feb 8, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Start at Triangle.

Climb up 10-15', then make a heady traverse right to a stance. Continue up the face following a left-facing corner system. Stuff the vertical crack with pro and make a hard move. With gear at your feet, make another difficult move (reach) to a horizontal, then traverse right to a stance (whew). Delicately move up by stepping on the precarious block and then over to the Never Never Land bolted anchors.

Protection

purple c3 to 2 or 3"

Photos

SethG  
Great description, lucander-- this was exactly my experience leading Nevermore. Looking at your photo, I'm surprised you didn't place any gear before the 5.8 moves! I knew that the pro I placed on the Triangle would ensure that, if I fell, I would hit the Triangle blocks; but at least I wouldn't go straight to the ground. Oct 10, 2016
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b
SethG - I used to be solid or bold or young back when that picture was taken. Nowadays I drop a small piece in on the Triangle block before cutting right across that scary face. Nov 11, 2016
Bob Johnson
Philadelphia, PA
 
Bob Johnson   Philadelphia, PA
 
I set this up on TR after leading Never Never Land. I got to what I think is the crux and found it unclimbable. There is a white scar where a piece of rock has broken off recently (not sure how recently though). This scar is a few feet below the grassy horizontal jug rail that marks the end of the crux. Now, the rock is completely blank below the horizontal and doesn't seem climbable. Is that scar from a key hold that broke? If true, the name Nevermore is quite apt. Jul 8, 2018