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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Joe Bridges and Dick Saum, 1976
Page Views: 1,963 total, 17/month
Shared By: T Roper on Jun 23, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

A good if short route; steep, and safe as long as the block holding in the old pin doesn't fail. A fun route to do in the area.

Start on the face; climb up to a ledge, then move left and back right aiming for the notch where the roof meets the left-facing corner above. Pull the roof (crux), then up the face and around the corner to an anchor.

Location

20' right of V-3.

Protection

Gunks rack, maybe some RPs or small stoppers. Fixed pin(s) for the crux.

Bolted anchor (2016).

Photos

Wes John-Alder
Brooklyn, New York
Wes John-Alder   Brooklyn, New York
The crux is protected by two pitons now. The piton on the right appears to be a newer (with some rust) knife blade. It felt rock solid. The pin on the left wobbled a bit when pulled. Jul 4, 2017
There were no slings on the tree atop this route when I climbed it 11/06/2016. Instead, I was greeted with shiny new bolts and rusty old chains! Nov 8, 2016
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b
Like many rotues at the Gunks, it's a beta-intensive one-move route. Also, the tree holding all the slings is looking pretty bad lately. Jan 10, 2012
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.10
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.10
As is the case with many Gunks routes, it is easier if tall. This is harder than nearby Datmantle and Dismantle which are both similar one-move 5.10s. So 5.10 is about right. Nov 10, 2011
David Stowe
5.10-
David Stowe  
5.10-
There is no way this is 10+ and has always been rated 10-. It is certainly harder if you are short. This is one of the fastest easiest 5.10 ticks in the Gunks. A total one move wonder. Fun and quick. Jul 28, 2008
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Dick and Todd have me, Joe Bridges and Dick Saum for the FA in 76. That's what I've always thought, but I really don't remember putting a pin in. I only placed a few pins in my life, and most of those quickly fell out (the Star Action pins stayed in for a long time). Perhaps the pin was added later, or, if the pin was already there, perhaps we did not do the FA. Jul 19, 2008
monk
 
monk  
 
My guidebook (Swain) has this as 10-. It felt harder than 10-, so I won't quibble with the 10+ rating given here (did a hold break?).

(Warning: gear beta follows).

The crux is protected by a piton - which always makes be nervous. I found a marginal nut placement a couple feet to the right of the pin. I also set a ballnutz in opposition to this nut a couple feet below and to the left. That gave me the confidence to pull through the crux.

The pin looks good, and you pull the crux with the pin at your stomach. I just know I wouldn't commit to the crux without backing up the pin. Jul 18, 2008