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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Mcarthy & Hans Kraus
Page Views: 4,405 total, 39/month
Shared By: Spiro on Aug 25, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Start on some easy ground and climb a section of wide crack. Trend left, with some face moves, towards a shallow ledge on top of a large block. From there, trend back right towards a vertical crack and right-facing corner. More fun moves following the corner, and up and leftward to the chains. Very fun climb for the 5.7 leader. Don't be fooled by the name!

Roger Benton describes the pitches above:
Pitch 2: From small ledge left of the chains, head up and diagonal right, aiming towards the top of a good-size pine tree at the horizon. Basically find the obvious "clean" path through the lichen. It's easy climbing, but watch for loose/creaky flakes. Williams' guide says 80ft but I thought it was more like 50. There is a tree with slings and rings but the tat is ancient and crusty ... don't use it. If you've gone this far, the bolts over Arrow are close enough. 5.3 at best, but clean, enjoyable climbing.

Pitch 3: More easy but yet dirtier climbing, about 30-40 ft to the top. Lots of dirty, grassy ledges; be careful not to drop junk down on your partner. 5.2. It's tempting to link these two pitches, but that would have the rope running over dirty pebbly ledges, dropping junk all over everything. We walked climbers' right through waist-high grass to rappel from the bolts above Arrow.

Location

It is left of Never Never Land and starts on a ledge about 10 feet up. I climbed the face to get to the ledge. Look for the large right-facing flakes and corner high up.

Protection

Standard rack. One 60m comes just short of reaching the ground (the route used to start from the tree that used to be on the ledge) from the first set of anchors - be careful.

Photos

bridge
Brooklyn, NY
 
bridge   Brooklyn, NY
 
3 ft. wide death block perched precariously in the early stages of the overhanging corner. Super spooky -- touched it very gently and the entire block wobbled.

Agree with Jon's comment about the middle runout. Sep 17, 2017
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+ R
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+ R
A great 5.7 for the 5.10 leader... I found myself very run out on the middle section until you get the great horizontal Dec 27, 2016
JimC25
 
JimC25  
 
A spicy lead for sure because of 5.5R section down low. As soon as you get above little chimney, start moving left on ledge and up a little (look for a horizontal for a small finicky cam placement) and continue more left where you end up with the tree branches behind you and a little past the big right-facing corner above. Some thin moves go up to a small flake where you can get a small cam (I placed two) behind from the top. Extend these fully and then go back right to above where you started. Start breathing again, now the fun begins, head up for sustained 5.6/7 varied thin/pumpy/layback G (with thought) climbing to the chains. *** in my book. I have posted a beta picture that shows where I placed gear down low. Bring lots of slings. Nov 1, 2016
Systematic  
 
This is an exciting lead that takes some really fun and creative gear. Would be a classic if not for the big scary loose rock around the upper flakes and ledges. The upper pitches looked really dirty to me. You can lower after P1 with a 70m.

The boulder problem up to the starting ledge is a nice way to start this. Fun V0+/V1 I think.

Route-finding beta
It's easy to go up the wrong route and get yourself in trouble (~9-10 land) so when at the ledge above the tree, avoid the thin seam above the tree and go about 10 feet left to another vertical seam that won't really take gear. Now go up aiming towards a small right facing corner. The rest is obvious.

Gear beta
Doubles in 2-3" cams. Nov 3, 2015
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
There are a bunch of trees that make it hard to spot the start. Look for a distinctive, large dead tree. Aug 23, 2013
rogerbenton  
 
pitch one was a fun lead. we did the final easy pitches to the top because i wanted my partner to see the top of the cliff. Here's my description of them:

(text moved) We walked climbers' right through waist high grass to rappel from the bolts above Arrow, and were rewarded with the sweet, insidious itch of chiggers the next night. Awesome.

Thanks, Roger, I moved your description of the upper pitches to the route description! JSH Jul 8, 2012
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
 
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
 
It's an okay climb if you're in the area. Seems to stay wet long after surrounding climbs have dried. Runout on the face climbing. small master cams are helpful. Oct 23, 2011
Goran Lynch
Oakland, CA
Goran Lynch   Oakland, CA
I led Cakewalk sometime earlier this summer and chuckled at the cool piton (it was driven vertically downward behind a flake), but as of 9/26/10 the pin is no longer there. It didn't seem to be particularly trustworthy and there is decent gear around.

Cakewalk is my favorite .7 at the gunks (at least, that I've done): sustained, varied, and interesting throughout! Sep 27, 2010
Olivier
 
Olivier  
 
Did not find the pin, a bit run out in the middle but great variety climb, quite even for the grade. Sep 26, 2010
JSH

JSH    
The face climbing in the first third of the route can stay seepy late into the spring, and after a rain. It's fairly obvious from the ground. Jun 4, 2010
Heather Selitrennikoff   East Coast
Fun route, a good mix of stuff! Nov 23, 2009