Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Mcarthy & Hans Kraus
Page Views: 5,379 total · 37/month
Shared By: Spiro Spiro on Aug 25, 2008
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Start on some easy ground and climb a section of wide crack. Trend left, with some face moves, towards a shallow ledge on top of a large block. From there, trend back right towards a vertical crack and right-facing corner. More fun moves following the corner, and up and leftward to the chains. Very fun climb for the 5.7 leader. Don't be fooled by the name!

Roger Benton describes the pitches above:
Pitch 2: From small ledge left of the chains, head up and diagonal right, aiming towards the top of a good-size pine tree at the horizon. Basically find the obvious "clean" path through the lichen. It's easy climbing, but watch for loose/creaky flakes. Williams' guide says 80ft but I thought it was more like 50. There is a tree with slings and rings but the tat is ancient and crusty ... don't use it. If you've gone this far, the bolts over Arrow are close enough. 5.3 at best, but clean, enjoyable climbing.

Pitch 3: More easy but yet dirtier climbing, about 30-40 ft to the top. Lots of dirty, grassy ledges; be careful not to drop junk down on your partner. 5.2. It's tempting to link these two pitches, but that would have the rope running over dirty pebbly ledges, dropping junk all over everything. We walked climbers' right through waist-high grass to rappel from the bolts above Arrow.

Location

It is left of Never Never Land and starts on a ledge about 10 feet up. I climbed the face to get to the ledge. Look for the large right-facing flakes and corner high up.

Protection

Standard rack. One 60m comes just short of reaching the ground (the route used to start from the tree that used to be on the ledge) from the first set of anchors - be careful.

Photos