Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Mcarthy & Hans Kraus
Page Views: 4,794 total · 37/month
Shared By: Spiro Spiro on Aug 25, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

119 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details


Start on some easy ground and climb a section of wide crack. Trend left, with some face moves, towards a shallow ledge on top of a large block. From there, trend back right towards a vertical crack and right-facing corner. More fun moves following the corner, and up and leftward to the chains. Very fun climb for the 5.7 leader. Don't be fooled by the name!

Roger Benton describes the pitches above:
Pitch 2: From small ledge left of the chains, head up and diagonal right, aiming towards the top of a good-size pine tree at the horizon. Basically find the obvious "clean" path through the lichen. It's easy climbing, but watch for loose/creaky flakes. Williams' guide says 80ft but I thought it was more like 50. There is a tree with slings and rings but the tat is ancient and crusty ... don't use it. If you've gone this far, the bolts over Arrow are close enough. 5.3 at best, but clean, enjoyable climbing.

Pitch 3: More easy but yet dirtier climbing, about 30-40 ft to the top. Lots of dirty, grassy ledges; be careful not to drop junk down on your partner. 5.2. It's tempting to link these two pitches, but that would have the rope running over dirty pebbly ledges, dropping junk all over everything. We walked climbers' right through waist-high grass to rappel from the bolts above Arrow.


It is left of Never Never Land and starts on a ledge about 10 feet up. I climbed the face to get to the ledge. Look for the large right-facing flakes and corner high up.


Standard rack. One 60m comes just short of reaching the ground (the route used to start from the tree that used to be on the ledge) from the first set of anchors - be careful.


Heather S
Dallas, TX
Heather S   Dallas, TX
Fun route, a good mix of stuff! Nov 23, 2009

The face climbing in the first third of the route can stay seepy late into the spring, and after a rain. It's fairly obvious from the ground. Jun 4, 2010
Did not find the pin, a bit run out in the middle but great variety climb, quite even for the grade. Sep 26, 2010
Goran Lynch
Oakland, CA
Goran Lynch   Oakland, CA
I led Cakewalk sometime earlier this summer and chuckled at the cool piton (it was driven vertically downward behind a flake), but as of 9/26/10 the pin is no longer there. It didn't seem to be particularly trustworthy and there is decent gear around.

Cakewalk is my favorite .7 at the gunks (at least, that I've done): sustained, varied, and interesting throughout! Sep 27, 2010
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
It's an okay climb if you're in the area. Seems to stay wet long after surrounding climbs have dried. Runout on the face climbing. small master cams are helpful. Oct 23, 2011
pitch one was a fun lead. we did the final easy pitches to the top because i wanted my partner to see the top of the cliff. Here's my description of them:

(text moved) We walked climbers' right through waist high grass to rappel from the bolts above Arrow, and were rewarded with the sweet, insidious itch of chiggers the next night. Awesome.

Thanks, Roger, I moved your description of the upper pitches to the route description! JSH Jul 8, 2012
Fort Collins, CO
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
There are a bunch of trees that make it hard to spot the start. Look for a distinctive, large dead tree. Aug 23, 2013
This is an exciting lead that takes some really fun and creative gear. Would be a classic if not for the big scary loose rock around the upper flakes and ledges. The upper pitches looked really dirty to me. You can lower after P1 with a 70m.

The boulder problem up to the starting ledge is a nice way to start this. Fun V0+/V1 I think.

Route-finding beta
It's easy to go up the wrong route and get yourself in trouble (~9-10 land) so when at the ledge above the tree, avoid the thin seam above the tree and go about 10 feet left to another vertical seam that won't really take gear. Now go up aiming towards a small right facing corner. The rest is obvious.

Gear beta
Doubles in 2-3" cams. Nov 3, 2015
A spicy lead for sure because of 5.5R section down low. As soon as you get above little chimney, start moving left on ledge and up a little (look for a horizontal for a small finicky cam placement) and continue more left where you end up with the tree branches behind you and a little past the big right-facing corner above. Some thin moves go up to a small flake where you can get a small cam (I placed two) behind from the top. Extend these fully and then go back right to above where you started. Start breathing again, now the fun begins, head up for sustained 5.6/7 varied thin/pumpy/layback G (with thought) climbing to the chains. *** in my book. I have posted a beta picture that shows where I placed gear down low. Bring lots of slings. Nov 1, 2016
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+ R
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+ R
A great 5.7 for the 5.10 leader... I found myself very run out on the middle section until you get the great horizontal Dec 27, 2016
Brooklyn, NY
bridge   Brooklyn, NY
3 ft. wide death block perched precariously in the early stages of the overhanging corner. Super spooky -- touched it very gently and the entire block wobbled.

Agree with Jon's comment about the middle runout. Sep 17, 2017