Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Robinson, Sandy Stewart, Grant Calder, 1976
Page Views: 2,872 total · 24/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Jul 21, 2009 with updates from Ben Hoste
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details

Description

Climb the right-facing corner to the overhang. Undercling right (crux) then up the smaller right-facing corner and face past a small tree. Go left, then up through corners to the large ceiling. Turn this left and belay at the bolts a few feet higher.

Location

Find V-3, walk to the right end of the ceiling system, and go to the top of a large boulder pile that is right of that point. Dry Heaves starts at the left side of the platform.

Protection

A blue Camalot is helpful; otherwise standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos

vanishing spy
  5.8
vanishing spy  
  5.8
A #4 or #3 is needed for the undercling if you wish to protect it. A #4 can be placed from a pretty secure spot taking some of the spice out of the move. The roofs are a lot of fun and tricky to see around and find the holds. There is a chain anchor at the top of the first pitch and you can lower off and belay the second from the ground. Double ropes are also recommended, though be careful not to catch a rope behind the flake after the crux. Aug 3, 2009
Michael G  
 
A single line is fine. I did it without any serious rope drag. Also, I protected the end of the traverse with a #2, not a 3 or 4. Climbers without doubles or a #4 should not be discouraged from getting on this route. Sep 28, 2009
Spiro Spiro
  5.8
Spiro Spiro  
  5.8
Thought this climb was a lot of fun and did require some technique. Single rope will do it just extend your draws. Fun climb. Oct 12, 2009
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9- PG13
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9- PG13
The crux gear is pumpy to place for the grade. IMO, moving off the thin feet and undercling would make this 5.9 anywhere else (and probably IS 5.9-ish). Good climb regardless, and the roof(s) at the top are very fun. Be strong at 5.8 if you want to lead this, and understand the risk of swinging back into the corner if you fall before getting the cam placement. Sep 26, 2012
Kevin is spot on - this traverse is remarkably similar to the flake undercling at the start of Pear Buttress at Lumpy Ridge, a well known 5.9 move. Oct 5, 2015
AJ W.
PA
  5.8
AJ W.   PA
  5.8
The photo of the woman on TR is spot on (on how I led it, at least). Left foot in the far right of the huge horizontal, hands matched on the pebbly undercling, and right foot in whatever divot you can press into.

Not the hardest but maybe the scariest part for me was moving my right hand out and into the next, big underling. It takes just one second but if your left hand and right foot aren't in balance with each other before you grab it and your body shifts too much, good chance you can strip.

This climb is more than the undercling though. Cool moves right after and a fun roof at the end. Jun 26, 2016
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Just be sure no one is coming up to climb Alley Oop while you're on this and vice-versa. They share the final roof pull at the top as well as the anchors and it can quickly turn into a mess. Oct 30, 2017