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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Robinson, Sandy Stewart, Grant Calder, 1976
Page Views: 2,653 total, 26/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Jul 21, 2009 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


77 Opinions

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Description

Climb the right-facing corner to the overhang. Undercling right (crux) then up the smaller right-facing corner and face past a small tree. Go left, then up through corners to the large ceiling. Turn this left and belay at the bolts a few feet higher.

Location

Find V-3, walk to the right end of the ceiling system, and go to the top of a large boulder pile that is right of that point. Dry Heaves starts at the left side of the platform.

Protection

A blue Camalot is helpful; otherwise standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Just be sure no one is coming up to climb Alley Oop while you're on this and vice-versa. They share the final roof pull at the top as well as the anchors and it can quickly turn into a mess. Oct 30, 2017
AJ W.
Montclair, NJ
  5.8
AJ W.   Montclair, NJ
  5.8
The photo of the woman on TR is spot on (on how I led it, at least). Left foot in the far right of the huge horizontal, hands matched on the pebbly undercling, and right foot in whatever divot you can press into.

Not the hardest but maybe the scariest part for me was moving my right hand out and into the next, big underling. It takes just one second but if your left hand and right foot aren't in balance with each other before you grab it and your body shifts too much, good chance you can strip.

This climb is more than the undercling though. Cool moves right after and a fun roof at the end. Jun 26, 2016
Kevin is spot on - this traverse is remarkably similar to the flake undercling at the start of Pear Buttress at Lumpy Ridge, a well known 5.9 move. Oct 5, 2015
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.9- PG13
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.9- PG13
The crux gear is pumpy to place for the grade. IMO, moving off the thin feet and undercling would make this 5.9 anywhere else (and probably IS 5.9-ish). Good climb regardless, and the roof(s) at the top are very fun. Be strong at 5.8 if you want to lead this, and understand the risk of swinging back into the corner if you fall before getting the cam placement. Sep 26, 2012
Spiro
  5.8
Spiro  
  5.8
Thought this climb was a lot of fun and did require some technique. Single rope will do it just extend your draws. Fun climb. Oct 12, 2009
Michael G  
 
A single line is fine. I did it without any serious rope drag. Also, I protected the end of the traverse with a #2, not a 3 or 4. Climbers without doubles or a #4 should not be discouraged from getting on this route. Sep 28, 2009
vanishing spy
  5.8
vanishing spy  
  5.8
A #4 or #3 is needed for the undercling if you wish to protect it. A #4 can be placed from a pretty secure spot taking some of the spice out of the move. The roofs are a lot of fun and tricky to see around and find the holds. There is a chain anchor at the top of the first pitch and you can lower off and belay the second from the ground. Double ropes are also recommended, though be careful not to catch a rope behind the flake after the crux. Aug 3, 2009