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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden, Ken Prestrud 1954. FFA: Art Gran, Al DeMaria, 1960.
Page Views: 1,746 total, 13/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Aug 7, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the detached blocks on their right side to a small right-facing roof. Move past the bulge on the right side and climb to the top. Beware: the pins are old and somewhat junky.

Location

Below a left-leaning ramp, left of Never Never Land and right of Cakewalk.

Rappel from the Never Never Land anchors.

Protection

Small rack since most the upper sections including the crux are protected with pins.

Photos

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Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.9
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.9
Direct start definitely makes this a more sustained climb and it's actually good thin climbing for the first 50 feet. Our leader managed to find okay gear (think small nuts). The roof is a typical Gunks grunt. Apr 7, 2014
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.9 PG13
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.9 PG13
Yeah if you do the direct variation it's 5.9 PG. I have small stuff and fiddled around for a while but it was still a little sparse. It's balancy, think Three Doves. Apr 27, 2013
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Direct start is fun climbing, but definitely very heady lead. I think an RP helped the situation....at least psychologically. Apr 26, 2013
divnamite
New York, NY
  5.8 PG13
divnamite   New York, NY
  5.8 PG13
Did the right side variation. Not sure if this is a 5.9, it's considerable easier than other 5.8s I've been on. Just make sure you move right instead of move left under the overhang. Once you get above the overhang onto the face, start traverse to the right towards Never Never Land's bolt anchor. Aug 15, 2010
paulmadry
  5.9
paulmadry  
  5.9
Ouch, my first fall on direct variation. It is pg-13. Aug 6, 2009
Chris Hillios
Newburyport, MA
Chris Hillios   Newburyport, MA
Direct Start: Climb the center of the huge triangle flake, then join route at the top. Note: gear is limited. Dicey 5.9, but makes for a nice sustained 5.9 overall. Oct 19, 2008