Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden, Ken Prestrud 1954. FFA: Art Gran, Al DeMaria, 1960.
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Shared By: Mike fenice on Aug 7, 2006
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You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details


Climb the detached blocks on their right side to a small right-facing roof. Move past the bulge on the right side and climb to the top. Beware: the pins are old and somewhat junky.


Below a left-leaning ramp, left of Never Never Land and right of Cakewalk.

Rappel from the Never Never Land anchors.


Small rack since most the upper sections including the crux are protected with pins.


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Chris Hillios
Newburyport, MA
Chris Hillios   Newburyport, MA
Direct Start: Climb the center of the huge triangle flake, then join route at the top. Note: gear is limited. Dicey 5.9, but makes for a nice sustained 5.9 overall. Oct 19, 2008
Ouch, my first fall on direct variation. It is pg-13. Aug 6, 2009
New York, NY
  5.8 PG13
divnamite   New York, NY
  5.8 PG13
Did the right side variation. Not sure if this is a 5.9, it's considerable easier than other 5.8s I've been on. Just make sure you move right instead of move left under the overhang. Once you get above the overhang onto the face, start traverse to the right towards Never Never Land's bolt anchor. Aug 15, 2010
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Direct start is fun climbing, but definitely very heady lead. I think an RP helped the situation....at least psychologically. Apr 26, 2013
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.9 PG13
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.9 PG13
Yeah if you do the direct variation it's 5.9 PG. I have small stuff and fiddled around for a while but it was still a little sparse. It's balancy, think Three Doves. Apr 27, 2013
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
Direct start definitely makes this a more sustained climb and it's actually good thin climbing for the first 50 feet. Our leader managed to find okay gear (think small nuts). The roof is a typical Gunks grunt. Apr 7, 2014