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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Art Gran and Eric Stern (1959)
Page Views: 2,442 total, 21/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 17, 2008 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


67 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun route that climbs the face between Middle Earth and Wisecrack.

P1 - Begin on the far right side of the ledge (or climb from the bottom of the slope up the fun, clean white face at 5.9ish, R/X) and move up and right to the first small overhang (old pin? - Lowe Balls helpful). Surmount it at the bolt on the right side, then step left (crux after clipping bolt, replaced in 2015) and continue up to the left side of a second small overlap/overhang. Continue up the path of least resistance to a ledge. Either set up a belay on one of the small tree ledges, or put in a couple of good pieces for a directional and traverse right to the Wisecrack belay/rappel tree.

P2 - (Note this is not P2 as described in the guidebook, it's P2 for Middle Earth) Climb the low-angle face directly up from the Middle Earth belay tree to the GT ledge and an aging pine. Be careful here - the pine is almost dead and not a good anchor.

P3 - There are three pitches of climbing from the GT ledge. From left to right, the biggest right-facing corner that starts ~25' left is Wisecrack (5.6+). The next right-facing corner, almost directly above the olde rap tree, is Bombs Away Dream Baby (5.8); it is the steepest of the three. Another 15' right is a third right-facing corner; this is Middle Earth (5.6).

From the top, rappel from trees (3x60m). It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.

Location

Same as for Wisecrack.

Protection

G for normal route, R for direct start. Standard Gunks rack + Lowe Balls and screamer if the old fixed pin is still there under the first overhang.

Photos

Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.8
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.8
The direct start really makes this one pretty full value, although it changes the grade to about 5.9 R, maybe X? A fall from pulling up onto the ledge would almost definitely result in a 30-40 foot ground fall. Pull the roof direct (instead of skirting around left) to add a fun 5.9 move. The gear is good and it straightens the line. With both direct variations this one is quite a classic! But 5.9 R for sure. Nov 1, 2015
chewtoynj
NJ
 
chewtoynj   NJ
 
I climbed it today. It's a fun climb, and the brand new bolt was much appreciated. Aug 10, 2015
Manky bolt on Wonderland has been replaced with a new shiny one by the Gunks Climbers' Coaltion with support from the Mohonk Preserve, the Access Fund and the ASCA.
Jul 9, 2015
Eddie2170
Orange County, NY
Eddie2170   Orange County, NY
Fun crux, definitely a 1 move wonder, but I enjoyed the route. One of the cracks ate my #5 bd nut trying to protect my 2nd if anyone wants to have a go at it.

The bolt is manky as hell and I definitely didnt trust it, but other than that I enjoyed the route as a warmup for Never Never Land Jul 4, 2013
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
  5.8- PG13
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
  5.8- PG13
Definitely worth doing the first pitch on a crowded day. Agree with other comments on the bolt and pin, which effectively make this a potentially dangerous route. I put a small micronut a couple feet below and to the left of the pin. Apr 28, 2013
Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
Eric G.   Saratoga Springs, NY
The bolt is gross. So rusty it's bright orange. Apr 22, 2013
Arch Richardson
  5.8 PG13
Arch Richardson  
  5.8 PG13
Pin is not that great, and bolt hanger is thin and covered with a blob of epoxy. I wouldn't fall on either. You can back up the pin with a cluster of rp's, but you have to trust the bolt. Aug 28, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.8-
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.8-
I agree with the minus, it has one maybe two 5.8 moves. Very good moves though. The rest was a little uninteresting. The second and third pitches are basically the top pitches of Middle Earth, and match the lower grade of that climb better (although the roof at the start of the last pitch is arguably 5.6 or harder). Oct 9, 2011
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
 
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
 
I do the direct start variation, which does have small pro. You can get some placements with 00 and 0 cams next to each other in a horizontal just before the crux. However, they're below your feet when you are doing the crux move so make sure your belayer is paying attention and doesn't have a bunch of slack in the rope. Jun 23, 2010
divnamite
New York, NY
  5.8- PG13
divnamite   New York, NY
  5.8- PG13
Fun fun route. Bolt protects the interesting crux, everything else is just fun and enjoyable. Nov 27, 2009