Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: Art Gran and Eric Stern (1959)
Page Views: 3,751 total · 19/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 17, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is a fun route that climbs the face between Middle Earth and Wisecrack.

P1 - Begin on the far right side of the ledge (or climb from the bottom of the slope up the fun, clean white face at 5.9ish, R/X) and move up and right to the first small overhang (old pin? - Lowe Balls helpful). Surmount it at the bolt on the right side, then step left (crux after clipping bolt, replaced in 2015) and continue up to the left side of a second small overlap/overhang. Continue up the path of least resistance to a ledge. Either set up a belay on one of the small tree ledges, or put in a couple of good pieces for a directional and traverse right to the Middle Earth bolted anchor.

P2 - (Note this is not P2 as described in the guidebook, it's P2 for Middle Earth) Climb the low-angle face directly up from the Middle Earth belay tree to the GT ledge and an aging pine. Be careful here - the pine is almost dead and not a good anchor.

P3 - There are three pitches of climbing from the GT ledge. From left to right, the biggest right-facing corner that starts ~25' left is Wisecrack (5.6+). The next right-facing corner, almost directly above the olde rap tree, is Bombs Away Dream Baby (5.8); it is the steepest of the three. Another 15' right is a third right-facing corner; this is Middle Earth (5.6).

From the top, rappel from trees (3x60m). It's also easy to walk just a bit north (right) to the bolted rappel line at Arrow.

Location Suggest change

Same as for Wisecrack.

Protection Suggest change

G for normal route, R for direct start. Standard Gunks rack + Lowe Balls and screamer if the old fixed pin is still there under the first overhang.