Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Todd Swain et al
Page Views: 354 total · 12/month
Shared By: SethG on Oct 10, 2016
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This climb is listed as a variation to V-3 in Dick's guidebook, but except for the first fifteen feet up the initial slab it is completely independent of V-3.

Once you ascend the initial slab and reach the obvious, prominent left-facing corner, place bomber gear and commit to launching yourself up and around the corner. This is the 5.9+ crux and when you finish the move your gear will be at your feet.

Now you will be standing against a blank slab. There is a junky fixed pin up over your head and-- if you are tall enough-- you can clip it from the stance. If you are short like me (5' 6") you will have to make another thin move (crux number 2) to reach the pin, and there is good pro just above.

Climb up to the roof and figure out how to move up and right to get over it (crux number 3). Again your gear is below your feet as you escape the roof.

After the roof it is easy climbing up the slab and slightly left to the V-3 bolt anchor.

This climb is "just a variation" but it packs three interesting cruxes into its short duration. It is somewhat spicy, with no overhead pro for any of the cruxes. Recommended for those who feel solid at 5.9+.

Location

Same start as V-3.

Protection

Protection is good when you can get it but at the cruxes the pro is beneath you (as noted above).

Photos

Danny
brooklyn, ny
 
Danny   brooklyn, ny
 
The description is accurate. I found each crux to be thought provoking and committing. Awkward, non-obvious moves. At the third crux, while the gear is pretty far under you, and while it is good, there is the potential to fall below it and right onto the sharp corner of the first crux...
This was one of those 5.9+ routes that felt harder for me than some 10a's (but it was also the last route of the day.)
A fun and engaging challenge. Apr 2, 2018