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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and Dick Williams (1954). FFA Dick Williams (1964)
Page Views: 1,862 total, 16/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

Williams describes 2 pitches, but P2 is rarely done and contains some lichen. Most people rap or do P1 as a TR in conjunction with P1 of Raunchy and Wild Horses. I have not climbed P2, so cannot describe it accurately. See the Williams' guide for a complete description.

P1 - The original start was from the right edge of the small ledge with a tree; however, better climbing is had by starting from the ground and that is the way the climb is now described in the Williams' Guide.

Climb the face, angling up left to the corner and a small rooflet. Traverse right (moving past the thin crack of Wild Horses in the center of the thin white face) to the far right crack in that face. Climb up the crack (crux, sequency), then continue up easier rock past several horizontals to a nice ledge. Set up a directional, then traverse left to the pine tree belay/rap.

Location

Begin on the face/arete at the far right edge of the lower Raunchy block, in a small alcove created by a corner.

Protection

Standard Gunks Rack.

Photos

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9 PG13
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9 PG13
The boulder problem at the bottom can be protected with a nut or micro cam but you have to take the time to finagle it in. The upper crux can be protected with a #3 or #4 brass offset and the same size RP/IMP (sorry, it was one of those two sizes). I found the crux to be rather a technical sequence, heady and reachy and certainly not a one-move wonder (I'm 5'6")...and there's an ankle-breaking ledge below you. After the crack it's smooth sailing.

Recommend linking to P2 of Raunchy. Interesting moves off the tree to gain the face and then some fun roofs, if a little loose in places. Aug 10, 2015
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.9 PG13
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.9 PG13
The start is fun, maybe 5.7, but yes it is a high-ball with little gear possibility. Crux is fun but literally one move. Above the crux, staying out of the small right facing corner and moving straight up the face makes for a more interesting and consistent route in my opinion.

Also, this route is to the right of Wild Horses, but MP has it left of Raunchy so maybe an admin could fix that in the order listing? Got it - thanks! JSH Sep 22, 2014
Steve Moulding
New York
  5.9 PG13
Steve Moulding   New York
  5.9 PG13
Climbed this (P1 only) years ago (mid 1990s?). Onsight lead in good style. I seem to recall the protection was quite thin (v. small wires). Jun 8, 2012
The beginning first 15ft is a highball problem with no pro - I could not fit any thin gear. You can connect with the Wild Horses crack, and then traverse right to follow the corner, 2 #2 C4s useful. I found the route easier than the 5.9 var. of Raunchy. Jun 20, 2011
2nd pitch of this climb is full value - steep 5.8 face... long, enjoyable, and fun... Oct 25, 2009
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
It's a bit easier and positive to climb the face just right of the thin crack. Oct 19, 2008