Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and Dick Williams (1954). FFA Dick Williams (1964)
Page Views: 2,030 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


50 Opinions

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Description

Williams describes 2 pitches, but P2 is rarely done and contains some lichen. Most people rap or do P1 as a TR in conjunction with P1 of Raunchy and Wild Horses. I have not climbed P2, so cannot describe it accurately. See the Williams' guide for a complete description.

P1 - The original start was from the right edge of the small ledge with a tree; however, better climbing is had by starting from the ground and that is the way the climb is now described in the Williams' Guide.

Climb the face, angling up left to the corner and a small rooflet. Traverse right (moving past the thin crack of Wild Horses in the center of the thin white face) to the far right crack in that face. Climb up the crack (crux, sequency), then continue up easier rock past several horizontals to a nice ledge. Set up a directional, then traverse left to the bolt anchor.

Location

Begin on the face/arete at the far right edge of the lower Raunchy block, in a small alcove created by a corner.

Protection

Standard Gunks Rack.

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
It's a bit easier and positive to climb the face just right of the thin crack. Oct 19, 2008
2nd pitch of this climb is full value - steep 5.8 face... long, enjoyable, and fun... Oct 25, 2009
The beginning first 15ft is a highball problem with no pro - I could not fit any thin gear. You can connect with the Wild Horses crack, and then traverse right to follow the corner, 2 #2 C4s useful. I found the route easier than the 5.9 var. of Raunchy. Jun 20, 2011
Steve Moulding
New York
  5.9 PG13
Steve Moulding   New York
  5.9 PG13
Climbed this (P1 only) years ago (mid 1990s?). Onsight lead in good style. I seem to recall the protection was quite thin (v. small wires). Jun 8, 2012
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.9 PG13
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.9 PG13
The start is fun, maybe 5.7, but yes it is a high-ball with little gear possibility. Crux is fun but literally one move. Above the crux, staying out of the small right facing corner and moving straight up the face makes for a more interesting and consistent route in my opinion.

Also, this route is to the right of Wild Horses, but MP has it left of Raunchy so maybe an admin could fix that in the order listing? Got it - thanks! JSH Sep 22, 2014
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9 PG13
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9 PG13
The boulder problem at the bottom can be protected with a nut or micro cam but you have to take the time to finagle it in. The upper crux can be protected with a #3 or #4 brass offset and the same size RP/IMP (sorry, it was one of those two sizes). I found the crux to be rather a technical sequence, heady and reachy and certainly not a one-move wonder (I'm 5'6")...and there's an ankle-breaking ledge below you. After the crack it's smooth sailing.

Recommend linking to P2 of Raunchy. Interesting moves off the tree to gain the face and then some fun roofs, if a little loose in places. Aug 10, 2015