Avg: 0.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||600 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Dillbag on Oct 10, 2018|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
For both routes (Smegma Garden, and Pigeon) follow the easiest (and dirtiest) line up and left, starting from the left edge of the Snowpatch & Thin Slabs area. As these trend left to stay on 4th class terrain, you will invariably be crossing climbers on much more superior routes. If you must climb this, do it on a weekday.
Route is G for the most part; however due to the dirt, pine needles, etc. built up on the ledges, it may not feel that way.