Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Hans Kraus, Ken Prestrud, Bonnie Prudden, 1954
Page Views: 10,385 total · 65/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006 with improvements by Lauren LittleRedClimbingHood
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

268 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details


Another classic Gunks 5.7 pitch, sustained and interesting.

The V-3 access trail is about an 11-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 7-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. This is just past a sitting boulder on the right. At the cliff, look for a crack directly below a large V-shaped notch at the right end of a roof band.

P1: Start just right of a boulder leaning against the cliff. Climb the cracks and corners, aiming for the exposed V-notch. Continue up a flared chimney to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.

It's also possible to continue with a very easy pitch to the GT ledge, and then do a third pitch above the GT ledge, but this would require two ropes to rappel.

from Kurtz : P2 was very easy and fun. You can just fly up. Pulling the overhang on P3 was great fun but 5.8ish. Takes great pro.


Standard Rack; the route is very well protected.
Mike Caruso
Mike Caruso  
Did this years ago as an on-site. I remember cursing Hans Kraus below the v-groove and thinking what would I have done with hobnailed boots and hemp rope (well maybe things had evolved by '54). So I stood up and put my ass into it, then I laughed like hell. Apr 20, 2008
There's a good nut placement about mid-notch.

It may also be worth mentioning that there are 2 ways to make the last few moves up to the notch. Climbing the crack in the steep right wall of the corner is the more obvious way, and seems to be what most leaders do their first time up there. But creative climbing allows a more direct approach, which can make for a better rope line, and is IMO more rewarding. It might just be 7+ however. Oct 3, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
This is a great climb. You can make it harder by climbing the right face below the v notch and then traversing over. I probably climbed up and down the right side five times before I committed to getting into the v. Stick your shoulders on one side, feet on the other and just squinch your way up the chimney. You can get a great nut in the back of the chimney, then a couple of more squinchy moves to the pin. Lots of fun. Oct 4, 2009
Galen Rahmlow
Woodbury, MN
Galen Rahmlow   Woodbury, MN
Wow, the V is awesome. For us the crux is getting up to get your shoulder in the groove. After that it's lots of fun. Gold and red c4's are helpful right under the groove. Apr 28, 2012
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
I definitely missed the supposedly great nut placement in the V. Would have been nice but you can definitely get pretty securely wedged in there. Fun climb. Oct 10, 2012
Fort Collins, CO
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
Did all three pitches. P1 seemed easier than the other comments would suggest. Good pro. P3 is very short and makes rapping off a pain since there is no rapp station. We bushwhacked left and down (30 yards?) until we found a tree with slings. We encountered a rock that made eerie "breathing" noises. There was no wind. Could not figure out what caused the noise. Spooky! Jun 27, 2013
Just FYI - a climber prying out a stuck nut today broke off part (a small part) of the two-handed jug you use to pull into the V. It's not any harder now, just a liitle different. And the broken edge may be a bit harsh on the hands until it gets a lot more traffic. May 18, 2014
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
Anyone ever go out right as you enter the V? I moved up in the slot then stepped out to the ledge on the right. Pondered moving back in to the V-slot but decided to climb the steep slab/arête instead. Heady, but fun. Nov 2, 2015
Andy W: Yep! I made that mistake when I onsighted the route about 20 years ago. I was desperate for rest, so I headed up right to that inviting ledge stance. Then looked up and saw a steep, licheny (at that time) blank face that looked about 5.9ish. Combined with the fact that I was NOT in the v-shaped chimney, it was obvious I was offroute. I Made the opposite choice from you, though! I wanted to regain the chimney, so I did a true "uber-fall" move and, with feet planted on the leftmost edge of the ledge, I leaned out with both hands and made the calculated "fall" of faith across to the far side of the v-notch. It worked! I didn't fall, and I finished in the chimney. In retrospect, having now climbed V3 more than two dozen times, I never did it that way again. And I probably would never recommend doing it that way deliberately. But it was fun and adventurous, and certainly a unique approach! Jul 14, 2016
Fun and makes you think, I don't think it is actually that difficult. Once you are in the V, just think like a slug. Oct 9, 2016
Ryan M Moore
Philadelphia, PA
Ryan M Moore   Philadelphia, PA
Very fun first pitch, gear wasn't as good as I would have liked in the beginning of the pitch, falls in line with the gray Dick PG rating. The V however was very easy to protect exceptionally well. Take some time to chill in the V and look down when you do this route. May 11, 2017
Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA
Steve Blevins   Central Coast, CA
One of the neatest pitches of any grade I have ever done! Jun 21, 2017
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
Led the first pitch for the first time yesterday, and this is now one of my favorite One pitch climbs! Feels on the softer side of 5.7, maybe even more like 5.6+.

There's one section that's a bit runout but easy climbing, but as someone mentioned the crux protects exceptionally well (you can even thread a nut wire-first for absolutely bomber pro), and lots of solid gear overall.

Beta Alert: When you first get into the V there's no pro, but there's a nice rest and it's easy climbing at this point if you're comfortable stemming, and you soon reach a very solid piton. There are new bolts & chains at the top (but don't be a dick and hog the route for top roping..) Jul 27, 2017
There is most definitely gear in the V and it is very solid. In fact GunkieMike describes the gear earlier in this comment section. Jul 28, 2017
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
I enjoyed all three pitches, but the rappelling setup was not ideal. Next time I'd probably walk along the top of the cliff and rap off something else if that's possible.

Found the nut in the notch, seems ok, I wouldn't say textbook though - kinda shallow and bumpy. Maybe depends on the nuts you have? But the pro was so good just below the notch, and the fall so clean, that it didn't seem bad. Exciting though.

I also through p2 was enjoyable and way less dirty then expected, good for my partner who is a beginner leader (I hear on a not-dry day it's a lot worse?). And I actually found the p3 roof easier than the notch and other roofs on easier-graded routes I'd done that day. Good pro too.

Also, reminded me of Know Ethics at Rumney, which I did the week before. Jul 31, 2017
Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
Another vote for going all the way to the top. The second pitch was easy but fun, and the third pitch was short (30 feet?) and sweet, with great pro under the final roof. The "5.8" third pitch roof was easier than the "5.6+" Shockley's Ceiling for me.

Descent from top of p3: a short rap off a tree to climber's right off p3 back to p2 anchor ledge, then traverse ~100 feet climber's right to tree rap, then one more 70m rope stretcher rap to the ground, or two more if you have a 60m or shorter rope. Oct 30, 2017
Matt Wetmore  
If you clip the shiny new piton at the top of the V make sure to extend it or face the wrath of the rope drag after the roof. A short draw will create a heinous zig zag against the rock. May 24, 2018
Wolf L
New York, NY
Wolf L   New York, NY
The upper pitches are obviously climbed less. The second pitch has some vegetation. With a 70 meter rope we barely made the rappel from the top to the chain anchor above the V. Jul 31, 2018
David K
New Paltz, NY
David K   New Paltz, NY
I think this is my favorite Gunks 5.7 pitch so far--I'll definitely be back to lead it again. The difficulty leading up to the V builds and is interesting. The gear for the first 20 feet is a bit spooky--too spaced, too small, or too inward-flaring. But a 5.7 leader shouldn't have much trouble dispatching those moves. The gear at the crux is about as good as it gets.

There's a piton about 5 feet below the V which is bad for a bunch of reasons. It's rusty and you have to girth hitch it to avoid bending a carabiner across the rock, but the real problem is that if you fall on it and it holds, you get slammed into the slab below it. There's wonderful gear out right that drops you gently into space, so I didn't clip that piton at all. Mar 24, 2019