Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: Hans Kraus, Ken Prestrud, Bonnie Prudden, 1954
Page Views: 13,615 total · 62/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Another classic Gunks 5.7 pitch, sustained and interesting.

At the cliff, look for a crack directly below a large V-shaped notch at the right end of a roof band.

P1 (5.7, 80'): Start just right of a boulder leaning against the cliff. Climb the cracks and corners, aiming for the exposed V-notch. Continue up a flared chimney to a 2-bolt anchor.

P2 (5.1, 120'): This pitch is easy but fun. There is a right facing corner system above the bolted anchor. Follow this system straight up to the GT Ledge. It is a long pitch. At some point in the middle you naturally step to the right of the corner. There is some hollow rock here, easily avoided, and then you step back left and continue. I also remember having to push past a bush at some point but overall the pitch is clean enough and the rock is good. Just before the GT Ledge the rock is cleaner if you move left and up to the ledge.

P3 ( 5.8, 30'): A short pitch with an entertaining roof. There is a blocky corner system to your left which arches up to a roof. Move just a few steps to your left and head up the face, meeting the corner system just a couple of feet below the roof. There is good gear at the top of the corner and in a downward-facing slot in the underside of the ceiling. Pull over the roof just to the left of this slot-- as soon as you pull into the roof there is another horizontal for gear and jugs to get you over. Once you are over the roof, the pitch is done. Combining pitches two and three is reasonable and the drag was nonexistent until I got over the roof-- and then it was all over and done anyway.

Descent: From the top, you'll need to do the easy scramble up the slab to the true top of the cliff and then go north to the Arrow rap line, where there's an easy step-down just past the bolts.  Or you can go south to the Madame G rappel, where you need to know landmarks, as you'll need to descend a bit to the bolts at the front of the buttress.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack; the route is very well protected.