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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Hans Kraus, Ken Prestrud, Bonnie Prudden, 1954
Page Views: 9,382 total, 66/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


239 Opinions

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Description

Another classic Gunks 5.7 pitch, sustained and interesting.

The V-3 access trail is about an 11-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 7-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. This is just past a sitting boulder on the right. At the cliff, look for a crack directly below a large V-shaped notch at the right end of a roof band.

P1: Start just right of a boulder leaning against the cliff. Climb the cracks and corners, aiming for the exposed V-notch. Continue up a flared chimney to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.

It's also possible to continue with a very easy pitch to the GT ledge, and then do a third pitch above the GT ledge, but this would require two ropes to rappel.

from Kurtz : P2 was very easy and fun. You can just fly up. Pulling the overhang on P3 was great fun but 5.8ish. Takes great pro.

Protection

Standard Rack; the route is very well protected.
Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
Another vote for going all the way to the top. The second pitch was easy but fun, and the third pitch was short (30 feet?) and sweet, with great pro under the final roof. The "5.8" third pitch roof was easier than the "5.6+" Shockley's Ceiling for me.

Descent from top of p3: a short rap off a tree to climber's right off p3 back to p2 anchor ledge, then traverse ~100 feet climber's right to tree rap, then one more 70m rope stretcher rap to the ground, or two more if you have a 60m or shorter rope. Oct 30, 2017
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
 
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
 
Led the first pitch for the first time yesterday, and this is now one of my favorite One pitch climbs! Feels on the softer side of 5.7, maybe even more like 5.6+.

There's one section that's a bit runout but easy climbing, but as someone mentioned the crux protects exceptionally well (you can even thread a nut wire-first for absolutely bomber pro), and lots of solid gear overall.

Beta Alert: When you first get into the V there's no pro, but there's a nice rest and it's easy climbing at this point if you're comfortable stemming, and you soon reach a very solid piton. There are new bolts & chains at the top (but don't be a dick and hog the route for top roping..) Jul 27, 2017
There's a good nut placement about mid-notch.

It may also be worth mentioning that there are 2 ways to make the last few moves up to the notch. Climbing the crack in the steep right wall of the corner is the more obvious way, and seems to be what most leaders do their first time up there. But creative climbing allows a more direct approach, which can make for a better rope line, and is IMO more rewarding. It might just be 7+ however. Oct 3, 2009
David Kerkeslager
Brooklyn, NY
  5.7
David Kerkeslager   Brooklyn, NY
  5.7
I am kind of divided on my difficulty rating for this. Once you figure out the beta for the V, actually executing the moves is not particularly strenuous, maybe 5.6. But actually figuring it out on the fly would be harder than that. Sep 11, 2017
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
 
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
 
I enjoyed all three pitches, but the rappelling setup was not ideal. Next time I'd probably walk along the top of the cliff and rap off something else if that's possible.

Found the nut in the notch, seems ok, I wouldn't say textbook though - kinda shallow and bumpy. Maybe depends on the nuts you have? But the pro was so good just below the notch, and the fall so clean, that it didn't seem bad. Exciting though.

I also through p2 was enjoyable and way less dirty then expected, good for my partner who is a beginner leader (I hear on a not-dry day it's a lot worse?). And I actually found the p3 roof easier than the notch and other roofs on easier-graded routes I'd done that day. Good pro too.

Also, reminded me of Know Ethics at Rumney, which I did the week before. Jul 31, 2017
mnjsan  
There is most definitely gear in the V and it is very solid. In fact GunkieMike describes the gear earlier in this comment section. Jul 28, 2017
Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA
 
Steve Blevins   Central Coast, CA
 
One of the neatest pitches of any grade I have ever done! Jun 21, 2017
Ryan M Moore
Philadelphia, PA
  5.7
Ryan M Moore   Philadelphia, PA
  5.7
Very fun first pitch, gear wasn't as good as I would have liked in the beginning of the pitch, falls in line with the gray Dick PG rating. The V however was very easy to protect exceptionally well. Take some time to chill in the V and look down when you do this route. May 11, 2017
Fun and makes you think, I don't think it is actually that difficult. Once you are in the V, just think like a slug. Oct 9, 2016
Stvbrsn  
Andy W: Yep! I made that mistake when I onsighted the route about 20 years ago. I was desperate for rest, so I headed up right to that inviting ledge stance. Then looked up and saw a steep, licheny (at that time) blank face that looked about 5.9ish. Combined with the fact that I was NOT in the v-shaped chimney, it was obvious I was offroute. I Made the opposite choice from you, though! I wanted to regain the chimney, so I did a true "uber-fall" move and, with feet planted on the leftmost edge of the ledge, I leaned out with both hands and made the calculated "fall" of faith across to the far side of the v-notch. It worked! I didn't fall, and I finished in the chimney. In retrospect, having now climbed V3 more than two dozen times, I never did it that way again. And I probably would never recommend doing it that way deliberately. But it was fun and adventurous, and certainly a unique approach! Jul 14, 2016
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7
Anyone ever go out right as you enter the V? I moved up in the slot then stepped out to the ledge on the right. Pondered moving back in to the V-slot but decided to climb the steep slab/arĂȘte instead. Heady, but fun. Nov 2, 2015
Just FYI - a climber prying out a stuck nut today broke off part (a small part) of the two-handed jug you use to pull into the V. It's not any harder now, just a liitle different. And the broken edge may be a bit harsh on the hands until it gets a lot more traffic. May 18, 2014
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
Did all three pitches. P1 seemed easier than the other comments would suggest. Good pro. P3 is very short and makes rapping off a pain since there is no rapp station. We bushwhacked left and down (30 yards?) until we found a tree with slings. We encountered a rock that made eerie "breathing" noises. There was no wind. Could not figure out what caused the noise. Spooky! Jun 27, 2013
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
 
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
 
I definitely missed the supposedly great nut placement in the V. Would have been nice but you can definitely get pretty securely wedged in there. Fun climb. Oct 10, 2012
Galen Rahmlow
Woodbury, MN
  5.8
Galen Rahmlow   Woodbury, MN
  5.8
Wow, the V is awesome. For us the crux is getting up to get your shoulder in the groove. After that it's lots of fun. Gold and red c4's are helpful right under the groove. Apr 28, 2012
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
This is a great climb. You can make it harder by climbing the right face below the v notch and then traversing over. I probably climbed up and down the right side five times before I committed to getting into the v. Stick your shoulders on one side, feet on the other and just squinch your way up the chimney. You can get a great nut in the back of the chimney, then a couple of more squinchy moves to the pin. Lots of fun. Oct 4, 2009
Mike Caruso
  5.7
Mike Caruso  
  5.7
Did this years ago as an on-site. I remember cursing Hans Kraus below the v-groove and thinking what would I have done with hobnailed boots and hemp rope (well maybe things had evolved by '54). So I stood up and put my ass into it, then I laughed like hell. Apr 20, 2008