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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dick Williams and Art Gran, 1970
Page Views: 1,023 total · 19/month
Shared By: Kurtz on Oct 27, 2013
Admins: JSH

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Description

There is a granite spire in the Bugaboos named Snowpatch Spire that has a permanent snowfield on it. The Snowpatch rock route passes just left of the snow. According to Swain, this was the inspiration for this climbÂ’s name, which has a bit of white rock that looks like snow. We didn't notice it, maybe you will. Based on the water marks on the wall, it looks like it can be wet after rain. Having now climbed both routes, I will say the one in the Bugaboos is more memorable.

P1: Climb the corner and traverse right near a small mountain laurel below the pine tree with rappel tat and the ledge with a large block. It's your choice whether to go around right (easier, watch the rope drag) or through (harder, less drag). Continue up above the ledge past the second pine tree/rap station to a gear or tree belay at the GT ledge (140 ft.). 5.5

P2: Not really a pitch, more of a bushwhack. Scramble up over a curved pine tree then head 40 ft. left around some bushes to reposition the belay below a left-facing corner at the left end of a dark roof (40 ft.). 5.1

P3: Climb the corner, then up the face to a large overhang. Bypass the overhang to the left (very spicy crux) and head to the top (80 ft.). 5.5 PG

Location

Starts in a large, right-facing corner (with a 6" crack in back) at the left of the wall with Sente and Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. See this .

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. You don't need big gear for P1. There are small cracks.

Photos

Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
Agreed, Eric. That move is closer to 5.7 PG. P3 of Red's Ruin is an easier alternative. Oct 29, 2015
Eric Lutz  
 
The crux move on Pitch three definitely had me going "5.5?"!I didn't see great pro before making the step out Oct 28, 2015

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