Type: Trad, 260 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dick Williams and Art Gran, 1970
Page Views: 1,098 total · 17/month
Shared By: Kurtz on Oct 27, 2013
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

There is a granite spire in the Bugaboos named Snowpatch Spire that has a permanent snowfield on it. The Snowpatch rock route passes just left of the snow. According to Swain, this was the inspiration for this climbÂ’s name, which has a bit of white rock that looks like snow. We didn't notice it, maybe you will. Based on the water marks on the wall, it looks like it can be wet after rain. Having now climbed both routes, I will say the one in the Bugaboos is more memorable.

P1: Climb the corner and traverse right near a small mountain laurel below the pine tree with rappel tat and the ledge with a large block. It's your choice whether to go around right (easier, watch the rope drag) or through (harder, less drag). Continue up above the ledge past the second pine tree/rap station to a gear or tree belay at the GT ledge (140 ft.). 5.5

P2: Not really a pitch, more of a bushwhack. Scramble up over a curved pine tree then head 40 ft. left around some bushes to reposition the belay below a left-facing corner at the left end of a dark roof (40 ft.). 5.1

P3: Climb the corner, then up the face to a large overhang. Bypass the overhang to the left (very spicy crux) and head to the top (80 ft.). 5.5 PG

Location

Starts in a large, right-facing corner (with a 6" crack in back) at the left of the wall with Sente and Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. See this
The start of Snowpatch .

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. You don't need big gear for P1. There are small cracks.

Photos

Eric Lutz  
 
The crux move on Pitch three definitely had me going "5.5?"!I didn't see great pro before making the step out Oct 28, 2015
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
  5.5
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
  5.5
Agreed, Eric. That move is closer to 5.7 PG. P3 of Red's Ruin is an easier alternative. Oct 29, 2015