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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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City Streets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Never Say Never T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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On Any Monday T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X |
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Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smegma Garden and Pigeon T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wild Horses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Dick Williams and Art Gran, 1970 |
| Page Views: | 1,428 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Kurtz on Oct 27, 2013 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
There is a granite spire in the Bugaboos named Snowpatch Spire that has a permanent snowfield on it. The Snowpatch rock route passes just left of the snow. According to Swain, this was the inspiration for this climbs name, which has a bit of white rock that looks like snow. We didn't notice it, maybe you will. Based on the water marks on the wall, it looks like it can be wet after rain. Having now climbed both routes, I will say the one in the Bugaboos is more memorable.
P1: Climb the corner and traverse right near a small mountain laurel below the pine tree with rappel tat and the ledge with a large block. It's your choice whether to go around right (easier, watch the rope drag) or through (harder, less drag). Continue up above the ledge past the second pine tree/rap station to a gear or tree belay at the GT ledge (140 ft.). 5.5
P2: Not really a pitch, more of a bushwhack. Scramble up over a curved pine tree then head 40 ft. left around some bushes to reposition the belay below a left-facing corner at the left end of a dark roof (40 ft.). 5.1
P3: Climb the corner, then up the face to a large overhang. Bypass the overhang to the left (very spicy crux) and head to the top (80 ft.). 5.5 PG
P1: Climb the corner and traverse right near a small mountain laurel below the pine tree with rappel tat and the ledge with a large block. It's your choice whether to go around right (easier, watch the rope drag) or through (harder, less drag). Continue up above the ledge past the second pine tree/rap station to a gear or tree belay at the GT ledge (140 ft.). 5.5
P2: Not really a pitch, more of a bushwhack. Scramble up over a curved pine tree then head 40 ft. left around some bushes to reposition the belay below a left-facing corner at the left end of a dark roof (40 ft.). 5.1
P3: Climb the corner, then up the face to a large overhang. Bypass the overhang to the left (very spicy crux) and head to the top (80 ft.). 5.5 PG
Location
Starts in a large, right-facing corner (with a 6" crack in back) at the left of the wall with Sente and Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. See this ![]()
The start of Snowpatch .
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