Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: 1982 Russ Raffa, Bob D'Antonio, Russ Clune, Hugh Herr
Page Views: 541 total · 17/month
Shared By: Ryan Thomas on Nov 3, 2021 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb straight up from ledge on crimps into a vague, shallow left-facing corner. Where the rock bulges, veer slightly right, then back left to a good stance at the base of the orange rock which makes up the upper half of the route. The climbing up to here is roughly 5.9, with the passage through the swelling bulge mandating an approximately 10-15 foot runout. If desired, gear may be found out left on Alley Oop. Depending on your comfort at the grade, placing this additional gear is advisable, despite the nascent pendulum fall. 

When you get to the orange/whitish rock there is ample gear. After plugging something, 4 feet higher, in a finger width horizontal, more bomber gear may be found to protect the crux which follows. A fall off the first crux, especially at the end of the sequence, might result in hitting the lower angled rock below. 

After tensioning your way through the first crux, you come to another horizontal (surprise, surprise) where more bomber gear can be found. This spot isn't exactly restful, but it is worth taking a second to get something back to see you through the pumpy finale. 

The final overhang is broken at a conspicuous, jutting, left-facing horn about 8 feet right of Cheap Thrills. Less than two feet above said horn is a huge jug rail. While hanging on this rail, you can put in a small cam or two underneath the overhang. Save some juice for the exit moves. 

Once on the lichen-clad slab, you can put in directionals and traverse left to the Alley Oop bolted anchor. 

Location Suggest change

Same start as Cheap Thrills (though many who do Cheap Thrills actually start on Alley Oop). A jumbled 20 foot high pile of boulders provides a platform for take off. Left of the Land climbs and uphill and right of Balrog.

Protection Suggest change

single rack to 2", maybe some extra finger sized and micro cams.

Photos

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