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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Willie Crowther, 1960, after placing the bolts on rappel.
Page Views: 4,275 total, 31/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jul 17, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


123 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the very few bolted routes in the Gunks and is a great warm-up for Never Never Land. The crux is a high-ball boulder problem with gear at your feet.

Start below 3 bolts, 15' left of Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. You can get great small gear in the second horizontal shelf. From here head up the bolt line, wandering left and right as needed, then up and right to the pine tree.

Protection

You'll need a light rack to supplement the 3 bolts.
Systematic
  5.9
Systematic  
  5.9
The flake system at the top of this route sounds pretty hollow. Heads up! Nov 10, 2016
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.9
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.9
Not sure if anyone else noticed but literally every bolt on this climb cross loads your biners against the rock!! I think it's best to basket the bolt with an alpine draw and clip both biners to your rope to avoid the crossload! Otherwise a fun "Gunks sport climb" Nov 1, 2015
A.wilk Wilk
Olympia, WA
  5.9-
A.wilk Wilk   Olympia, WA
  5.9-
Not a lot of love here for Sente but I think this is a really fun route. Not nearly a classic but still worth your time if you're in the area and this is dry. In Gunks style, a little bit of wingspan helps but like others have said it is not impossible or dangerous if you are vertically challenged. Dec 28, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I am 5'2" and I did not have any trouble reaching the horizontal that takes gear. The rest of the climb is very much in reach for this little shorty. Nov 8, 2014
cliffmama  
 
Love this climb, great for those who like thin, balancy moves. Dicey first moves until you can get gear in - I'm 5'6" tall and I have to use the slopey ramp as a hold until I can reach the big horizontal. Then three bolts make the hardest section a well protected sport climb - it's very thin here but if you fell, you won't go far. Then the rest is easy trad. Tree has sling anchor on it, so easy to set up top rope from here to TR Sente, and Thin Slabs with a directional. Apr 26, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.9
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.9
Awkward moves. Nothing special IMHO. Mar 30, 2012
S. Neoh  
I am 5'6" tall with short arms. I led this climb on-sight in 1996 and remembered some balancy but not hard moves before the 1st piece of gear. Sorry, can't say I remember more. I thought the climb was pretty good. I was more nervous leading Pas de Deux! Oct 31, 2010
kenr  
Agree with JSH: If less than 5ft 7inch / 170cm, unless have unusually long arms, would have to stand on really dicy crystals or something in order to reach hand up to the horizontal.
That comes before placing the first cam in horizontal, below the first bolt.
(Or else someone post the special beta for non-tall leaders.) Oct 29, 2010
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
  5.9
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
  5.9
Fun route. Very un-Gunks like slab climbing. Protects reasonably with #2 Yellow and #3 Orange Metolius doubled up at the first horizontal. Three bolts and a piton above that then one or two larger cams in the easy blocky stuff just before the end. Oct 15, 2010
JSH

 
JSH    
 
At my height (5'7", -2 ape index), there is a 9+ or 10 move *before* placing the first piece of gear - I can't reach the first horizontal with my feet on anything reasonable. This is why I'll never lead this route - that move is a committing highball for me. Other moves on this route seemed reachy as well, and the route is really .... just so-so. Just my $0.02. Sep 3, 2007
Mike fenice
Boulder, CO
 
Mike fenice   Boulder, CO
 
Adam,

There are three shiny new bolts that protect this climb. Aug 1, 2006
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
 
If you've done this route a few years ago the bolts were pretty mank. I hear the bolts were replaced recently; can anyone confirm? Jul 28, 2006