All Locations > New York > Gunks > Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth

Bombs Away Dream Baby

Name: Bombs Away Dream Baby
Rating: 2.4

5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

L › R R › L A › Z

	Absurdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
	Blunderbus T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
	Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Deep Chills T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	HELP! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Intergalactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Monumantel T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
	Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	PLEH! T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A3+ X
	Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Smegma Garden and Pigeon T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
	Snake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Sort of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wild Horses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 3 pitches
FA:	Ray Dobkin and Stan Hayes, 1980
Page Views:	3,211 total · 21/month
Shared By:	Orphaned User on Feb 13, 2011
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, RJ B Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

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Description

The first two pitches of Bombs Away are unremarkable, but the third pitch is one of three gems capping the Middle Earth area.

P1: Begin just right of Middle Earth at blocks below a tree. Wander up the face, pass a short overhang, then up a steeper face to the Middle Earth bolted station. Starting out, it may feel contrived to avoid Middle Earth, but the climbing later in the pitch is worthwhile. 5.6, 100 ft.

P2: Climb easy rock to the GT ledge. The Williams guide describes an independent line, but by now the only reasonably clean line is to run up P2 of Middle Earth to the big ledge. 5.4, 100 ft.

P3: There are three right-facing corners above. The middle corner, directly above a tree with roots that seem to be levering out some slabs of rock (this used to be the rappel tree), is Bombs Away. Gain the face by stepping right to a shallow right-facing corner, then traverse left to just below the major overhanging corner. Up you go, with your last pro at your feet -- I promise the jugs above are huge. Then follow the cracks and horizontals to the very enjoyable coda on tight white rock. 5.8, 80 ft.

Rappel from bolted stations; 3x60m to the ground.