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Bombs Away Dream Baby
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.3 from 52
votes
Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Absurdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Blunderbus T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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City Streets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Deep Chills T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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HELP! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Intergalactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Monumantel T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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On Any Monday T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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PLEH! T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smegma Garden and Pigeon T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Sort of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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V7 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Weber Line T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Wild Horses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yenta T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ray Dobkin and Stan Hayes, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 3,475 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Feb 13, 2011 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
The first two pitches of Bombs Away are unremarkable, but the third pitch is one of three gems capping the Middle Earth area.
P1: Begin just right of Middle Earth at blocks below a tree. Wander up the face, pass a short overhang, then up a steeper face to the Middle Earth bolted station. Starting out, it may feel contrived to avoid Middle Earth, but the climbing later in the pitch is worthwhile. 5.6, 100 ft.
P2: Climb easy rock to the GT ledge. The Williams guide describes an independent line, but by now the only reasonably clean line is to run up P2 of Middle Earth to the big ledge. 5.4, 100 ft.
P3: There are three right-facing corners above. The middle corner, directly above a tree with roots that seem to be levering out some slabs of rock (this used to be the rappel tree), is Bombs Away. Gain the face by stepping right to a shallow right-facing corner, then traverse left to just below the major overhanging corner. Up you go, with your last pro at your feet -- I promise the jugs above are huge. Then follow the cracks and horizontals to the very enjoyable coda on tight white rock. 5.8, 80 ft.
Rappel from bolted stations; 3x60m to the ground.
P1: Begin just right of Middle Earth at blocks below a tree. Wander up the face, pass a short overhang, then up a steeper face to the Middle Earth bolted station. Starting out, it may feel contrived to avoid Middle Earth, but the climbing later in the pitch is worthwhile. 5.6, 100 ft.
P2: Climb easy rock to the GT ledge. The Williams guide describes an independent line, but by now the only reasonably clean line is to run up P2 of Middle Earth to the big ledge. 5.4, 100 ft.
P3: There are three right-facing corners above. The middle corner, directly above a tree with roots that seem to be levering out some slabs of rock (this used to be the rappel tree), is Bombs Away. Gain the face by stepping right to a shallow right-facing corner, then traverse left to just below the major overhanging corner. Up you go, with your last pro at your feet -- I promise the jugs above are huge. Then follow the cracks and horizontals to the very enjoyable coda on tight white rock. 5.8, 80 ft.
Rappel from bolted stations; 3x60m to the ground.
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