Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Joe Strutt, Roy Kligfield, Jack Hunt 1973
Page Views: 2,727 total · 22/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 30, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

Dis-Mantel is a short but sweet climb up the center of the "Dis-Mantel" block which sits to the left of the Raunchy area.

The "gear shift" knob broke off the 5.9 version of this route some time ago, and Dick Williams says the route is now 10b. For someone tall like myself, it doesn't make much difference, and the upper ceiling is still the crux.

To the left of Dis-Mantel is Dat-Mantel, 5.10, and to the right, starting around the corner is Kernmantle 5.8. I always wanted to add another route and call it Mickey Mantle, but couldn't squeeze in another line.

Start near the middle of the face and pass a bulge on its left side (new crux?). Angle right and over a tricky ceiling (old crux). A little higher get a directional for your second head up to the bolted anchor that is between the two Mantle routes..

Location

The Dis-Mantel block sits between Bitchy Virgin and Raunchy. Unnamed climbs are on the left side this block.

Protection

Single set of cams and a few nuts. Long slings.

Photos

monk
  5.9+
monk  
  5.9+
I was conflicted about gear on the last roof. I got a good cam at the lip of the roof but I'm unsure about the rock quality. I warned my belayer to put on a helmet in case I fell and broke the rock.

Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Was I stupid to place the pro there?

BTW, I think Ivan is right that the route is height dependent. I'm 5'8" and I can *just* reach the good hold on the first roof. If I were any shorter I think it would be much harder. Nov 5, 2008
Uhmmmm. 5.9+? Is this in the parallel universe where Gunks 5.9 + (=) 5.10? I got up to that first mantle and got shut down, not wanting to chance my gf catching me (and this was after three weeks climbing in Eldo and the Valley!)

Good gear though. Yellow alien below the first mantle if I remember right. Definitely one to try again when I feel stronger. Mar 12, 2009
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.10b
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.10b
It is a 5.10 in both Williams and Swain which I found to be about right and the first bulge is harder than the second "roof" for short people which is rated at 5.8 in Swain. Not that the difference between 5.9 and 5.10 is significant but I think that people who are substantially taller or shorter than average who rate climbs skew the ratings, particularly at the Gunks where many climbs are reach dependent.
5.10a for 5'9" or taller
5.10c? for under 5'9" Jun 23, 2009
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b
First crux took me several falls to figure out (I'm 5'5"), the second roof is probably 5.8ish but a grunt. Feb 1, 2012
kenr  
As Monk suggests, if shorter than 5ft8in w normal reach the lower crux is much harder - (perhaps more than 10b?). Not just finger strength, but a sort of awkward trick -- took me a lot of tries to work it out even after I saw it demonstrated. Aug 4, 2013
JSH

JSH    
Ouch, Jon, that sounds pretty close to the dirt.

I'm short: 5'6" with a -2" apespan. The first roof has always shut me down on toprope. I think I climbed it once or twice when I was a 5.9 leader, but maybe not even then.

Speaking of toprope, if you think your second will flail like me, be sure to use the horizontal under the 2nd roof to arrange the rope such that it is over the first roof (not to the right of the first roof). Apr 15, 2015
The grey Dick describes a second pitch at 5.7 PG. It's easily reached from the easier climbs (i.e. easier than 5.10) on either side of the big Mantle block. It goes up what looks to be an attractive piece of rock. The moves approaching the "first crux" overhang are fairly dirty however, and that's followed by a 5.5ish runout that is squarely in the R category IMO (DW calls it PG). Nice climbing however, so if you're looking for something to do after exhausting the Raunchy/Wild Horses lines, give it a look. Sep 1, 2015
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.10b
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.10b
There is a shiny new anchor chain on top of the route now. Kind of half way between Dat and Dis Mantel. You have to look for it. Jun 28, 2018