Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Jim McCarthy, Rich Goldstone
Page Views: 5,455 total · 38/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 17, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Description

Begin just down and left of the pillar/ledge from which Alley Oop and Dry Heaves start.

Climb up cracks aiming for the huge, hanging, right-facing corner. Pull up into this corner (crux), and continue to a bolted anchor.

Protection

Standard rack.
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Finally, a gunks climb that works better for shorties. One move wonder. Jun 21, 2010
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
 
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
 
Some solid 5.8 moves get you to the crux. Protection at the crux is bomber. Williams' description is about right: if you get the sequence wrong, you can easily make this 5.10 crux into a 5.11. Take your time and figure it out. Also the route is about 75 ft, not 750 ft... Aug 15, 2011
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.10a/b
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.10a/b
Sweet climb. The crux is hard to onsight if you're climbing near your limit but you get a great rest to figure it out from and the gear is bomber. Oct 20, 2013
kevin neville
Oconomowoc WI
  5.10b
kevin neville   Oconomowoc WI
  5.10b
There's currently a fixed nut at the crux. Totally G-rated. May 27, 2014
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.10c
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.10c
No fixed gear as of 9/14. Crux super well protected but bring small stuff (000 C3 or wires) for the vertical crack below the roof. Sep 22, 2014
crackatoa Spiesbach
Boulder,Co
  5.10b
crackatoa Spiesbach   Boulder,Co
  5.10b
Crux is BETA INTENSIVE!! If you nail the sequence it really is very straightforward; if you are trying to muscle through the hard moves, you will find this to be very very hard!

Beta is available in forums if you want it, or if you think you can solve the riddle onsight go for it!

Sick climbing top to bottom. Mar 17, 2016