Type: Trad
FA: Andy Salo, Scott Barocas, Tim Keenan 2017
Page Views: 390 total · 25/month
Shared By: ChrisHau on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

A fun and recent addition to the list of Gunks hardman routes.

Begin on the block and perform a nipple-removing lip encounter to get established on a face. Engage in a tricky rightwards traverse before heading further upwards to a stance under the roof.

After fiddling an uninspiring microcam left under the overhang, do the thrutchy moves to get established in the roof. Ample gear in the finger sizes allow you to build a nice nest before engaging in the dynamic final boulder problem and a victory mantle.

Location

Currently the rightmost route that breaches this area's roof system. An anchor can be built about twenty feet right of the bolted anchors of Commando Rave.

Protection

Microcams to finger-size cams in the roof. No anchor, though you can set one up by traversing right from the bolted anchors at the top of Commando Rave.

The crux is well-protected, but sections on the face involve tricky climbing and small, fiddly gear. Heads up.

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JSH

JSH    
Thanks for adding this. Do you know the FA year or date? Oct 16, 2017
ChrisHau
Hanover, NH
  5.13a
ChrisHau   Hanover, NH
  5.13a
Added 2017 to the route FA. I'm basing this all off the info in the Gunks app - this route went up in the most recent update. Oct 18, 2017