Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth
Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X | |
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 | |
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 | |
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R | |
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c | |
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X | |
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 | |
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c | |
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X | |
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 | |
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 | |
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R | |
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Type: | Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches |
FA: | Joe Kelsey and Roman Laba, 1967 |
Page Views: | 11,542 total, 82/month |
Shared By: | Denis O'Connor on Apr 12, 2006 |
Admins: | JSH |
Description
ROCKFALL WARNING: WEAR HELMETS, AND DO NOT LOITER AT THE BASE OF MIDDLE EARTH. Far above you, things are quite unstable.The rock below the GT is a 30'x10' plaque of loose blocks. Combined with an evolving anchor situation, these loose blocks make for substantial rockfall danger at the base of the cliff. For detailed explanation, see Mike Rawdon's comment below.
2016: There is no anchor (and no good trees, no place for gear) at the GT ledge, aside from a dead, levered-out tree. If you climb above the first pitch, plan on going to the top very, very carefully and rappelling with two ropes back to the first pitch, skipping the GT ledge. Or head north to Arrow to descend.
2017: The hangers and chains have been removed from the bolts at the top of the 3rd pitch. The fixed anchor has been removed from the big pine on the GT.
Note that volunteers are doing this work, and it can take time and not always be perfect...
A deservedly popular climb with good first and third pitches.
P1: Climb broken cracks for about 100', aiming for a nice ledge about 15' left of a large pine tree. The route wanders left and right at various places, so keep looking around. At a big ledge, rappel from a bolted station (almost exactly 30m). 5.6.
P2: Climb easy ground 60' up and slightly left, to the GT Ledge.
P3: Reposition the belay ~ 20 feet to the right. Climb up and left into a right-facing corner (crux). Clear it, then aim up and left towards a pretty white face and finish up that to the cliff top.
Rappel from rings on trees and/or bolted stations, a bit left of the climbing line. Walking a bit north to the Arrow rappel line is also an option.
Location
Just left of where the Thin Slabs ascent trail meets the cliff.From Absurdland, go downhill to the right, and about another 30' right once the trail flattens out.
Photos
10 Comments
Thanks for the comment
Slow down, you've reached your posting limit
Poughkeepsie, NY
The belay anchor opportunities at the top of the current P2 on the GT ledge are poor, a rotting stump being the most obvious possibility, with some rather small trees rather far to either side. I think that the best way to do ME to the top is to continue past the bolts on current P1, up the easy stuff to a nice large tree and belay there. Then climb the remaining easy stuff and the rest of current P3 from there. Jul 13, 2017
New Paltz
Update - March 29, 2016 - there are several rather large (~ 2 ft) rocks embedded in the dirt at the base of the route. I wonder if someone trundled the dangerous blocks I refer to above. Hopefully it was done on purpose, safely. I will have to go up there and see if in fact they're gone (they were still there on March 17th).
May 2016 - The blocks I mention above, as well as a few other large (2-3 ft) blocks, have indeed come down from immediately below the (new) bolts on the GT ledge that serve Middle Earth and the other climbs in that vicinity. Hopefully they were dropped purposefully/safely. But the thing is - there's now a messy dirt slope where the blocks used to be, and climbing through this is super insecure. It will wash off eventually, but as it does there are sure to be several smaller bits of rock that find their way downward. 3 golf ball size rocks came down while we were on Bombs Away today. YMMV but I'd suggest avoiding all these climbs on busy days for the next several months. If you want to see one of the blocks, look just R of the base of Bombs Away. I'd guess 300-400 pounds. Dec 15, 2015
New Paltz
Brooklyn, NY
New Paltz, NY
It's not easy to get *good* pro at the crux, because of the direction of rope pull, and the pumpy stance; and you're looking at hitting the ledge if you fall on bad pro. So I agree with Tim - I would not, not, not put a 5.5 leader on this pitch.
Repositioning the belay at the GT ledge, to just below the pitch, is a good idea. Aug 4, 2009
P2 is easy 5th class, but still fun.
P3 is tricky, with a vague book description, potential ledge falls, and a harder than rated crux. I would not put a new 5.5ish leader on the last pitch. Apr 2, 2008