Avg: 2.1 from 9 votes
Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth
|Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X|
|Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13|
|Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X|
|Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X|
|Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||FFA John Stannard and Pat Milligan 1971|
|Page Views:||1,417 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||bheller on Aug 9, 2010|
Almost Heaven?That John Denver is full of shit, man!
Country Roads is an OK route that really amounts to 30 feet of forgettable climbing culminating in a decent 5-move boulder problem (v3) -- pulling over the obvious roof, about 40 feet up. Too bad it's not just a boulder problem :) After surmounting the roof, it's easy climbing up a right-facing corner for about a body length and then a short traverse left to a slung-tree anchor.
For those who continue with pitch 2 (not many appear to), continue more or less straight up from the belay tree until about 20 feet from the GT ledge, where you then trend diagonally right. Build an anchor. 5.4, 150 feet.
Word has it this route used to go at a more reasonable 5.10 until that fateful year of 1995, when a block or flake fell out of the roof, rendering the crux more crux-y.
LocationAbout 30 feet right of V-3, at a vertical crack/seam that ends at a ledge 25 feet up.
ProtectionThere is good protection up the initial easy vertical crack, but once you reach the ledge, protection seemed to be lacking until you get to the face off the ledge to the roof (I didn't look too hard; 5.7 R?). Once you reach the right-facing flakes/corner in the roof, a couple of fixed micro nuts are available (you shouldn't trust these), and then the crux proper is protected with a cheater sling/cord that hangs with an oval 'biner (you really shouldn't trust this! RIP, 2014, see comments). The cord is fixed and tied off to a pin in the corner above. All you have to do is clip, trust that manky fixed cord/pin, and execute the boulder problem. Above the roof, protection is obvious, until the belay tree, and the climbing is much easier.
Pitch 2 requires a standard Gunks rack.
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