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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FFA John Stannard and Pat Milligan 1971
Page Views: 1,417 total, 16/month
Shared By: bheller on Aug 9, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Almost Heaven?

That John Denver is full of shit, man!

Country Roads is an OK route that really amounts to 30 feet of forgettable climbing culminating in a decent 5-move boulder problem (v3) -- pulling over the obvious roof, about 40 feet up. Too bad it's not just a boulder problem :) After surmounting the roof, it's easy climbing up a right-facing corner for about a body length and then a short traverse left to a slung-tree anchor.

For those who continue with pitch 2 (not many appear to), continue more or less straight up from the belay tree until about 20 feet from the GT ledge, where you then trend diagonally right. Build an anchor. 5.4, 150 feet.

Word has it this route used to go at a more reasonable 5.10 until that fateful year of 1995, when a block or flake fell out of the roof, rendering the crux more crux-y.

Location

About 30 feet right of V-3, at a vertical crack/seam that ends at a ledge 25 feet up.

Protection

There is good protection up the initial easy vertical crack, but once you reach the ledge, protection seemed to be lacking until you get to the face off the ledge to the roof (I didn't look too hard; 5.7 R?). Once you reach the right-facing flakes/corner in the roof, a couple of fixed micro nuts are available (you shouldn't trust these), and then the crux proper is protected with a cheater sling/cord that hangs with an oval 'biner (you really shouldn't trust this! RIP, 2014, see comments). The cord is fixed and tied off to a pin in the corner above. All you have to do is clip, trust that manky fixed cord/pin, and execute the boulder problem. Above the roof, protection is obvious, until the belay tree, and the climbing is much easier.

Pitch 2 requires a standard Gunks rack.

Photos

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Walt Heenan
New Paltz, NY
Walt Heenan   New Paltz, NY
Yup, it used to go at 10b if I recall correctly. I went up to lead it the week before the block fell out, in 1995. The party before me took a fall and ripped a pin at the roof. When I got up and pulled up onto the block, the whole thing shifted. I suspect the ripped pin had been holding it in place. It scared the crap out of me and we bailed. I mentioned it at Rock and Snow and the next week when we went back the block was gone. Jun 21, 2015
Alex CV
Greater NYC area
 
Alex CV   Greater NYC area
 
Fixed webbing in the corner has been removed. The pin is in bad shape. A so-so fixed wire is still there. May 18, 2014
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
 
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
 
A more difficult sibling to City Streets, lots of body English on this one. The fixed mank is in bad shape, clip it and hope you don't fall. Someone's gotta replace that stuff someday. Jan 10, 2012