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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smegma Garden and Pigeon T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Dick Williams, Joe Bridges
Page Views: 1,792 total · 14/month
Shared By: monk on Jul 18, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Climb about 10 feet up to a piton (no pro). Clip that pin, continue up to a second pin. Backup the second pin with a small nut or a ball nut and make a couple delicate moves up to the overlap. Belay from the ledge about 15 above the crux. You can scramble down right from here or continue up Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct.

Location

~20 feet right of the Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct crack.

Protection

No pro before the first pin, but the climbing is straight forward. I'm 5'8" and have no trouble clipping the first pin from a good stance, but some partners have said this is harder if shorter. I used a ball nut to back up the pin at the crux. Small nuts may work there too (see comments below).

Photos

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paulmadry  
 
the knifeblade piton is suspect (looks good enough for aid but not far fall). I managed to add a blue a and black alien next to it. Jul 19, 2011
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10+
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10+
I got replacement cost + a six pack for whoever is skilled with piton craft and replaces that second knife blade pin.

Also, the moves to the first pin feel harder than 5.7 to me - maybe it's a reach thing, I'm 5'5" and to do a tenuous move to make the clip. Nov 4, 2012
Have not led it in a few years but that second pin is unnecessary as it takes gear, both aliens and small nuts. Nov 5, 2012
Lukasz Fidkowski
Seattle, WA
Lukasz Fidkowski   Seattle, WA
Fell at the crux today, pulled out the pin (2nd pin). Had a ballnut next to it that magically held... Nov 9, 2013
losbill  
Whoa! Nov 11, 2013
SethG  
Glad you emerged unscathed. Nov 11, 2013
kenr  
Crux might be fairly height+reach dependent.
We did it on top-rope. My partner was much taller, and it seemed that he could reach rock features which I could not -- not actual holds, but things he could use to pull/push himself more easily into balance over a critical dicey foothold at the upper crux. Not to mention that because he was taller his body was already more in balance over that foothold.

So he could get the move (with difficulty), while I could not even come close. But maybe I just need different beta - (or to first become a different better climber). Jun 3, 2015
JSH

JSH    
I think that might be right, Ken, Scott (monk) has just a little more reach than I do and I remember being just unable to reach the holds he did. Jun 4, 2015
Excellent thin, 3-move-wonder crux section. Third time I've heard of knifeblade pulling on this since mid-80s. We scrambled to ledge and top-roped, discretion dictating cowardice.... May 20, 2018
mnjsan  
To the right of the 2nd pin I fished a medium sized RP in that was quite good. Any similar sized nut should work. This gave me the confidence to tackle the 2nd crux as the pin is not overly inspiring. Sep 24, 2018
monk
  5.11-
monk  
  5.11-
I was on this again recently and edited my description. I agree the climbing before the first pin is harder than 5.7, so I took that out of the description. I also added a comment about clipping the first pin if shorter (both lucander and another partner have mentioned this). The first pin looks fine to me; I agree with nmjsan that you'd really want to back up the second pin. Sep 25, 2018

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