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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Absurdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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City Streets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Deep Chills T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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HELP! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Intergalactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Monumantel T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Never Say Never T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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PLEH! T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A3+ X |
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Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smegma Garden and Pigeon T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Sort of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wild Horses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Dick Williams, Joe Bridges |
| Page Views: | 2,781 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | monk on Jul 18, 2008 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, RJ B |
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Description
Climb about 10 feet up to a piton (no pro). Clip that pin, continue up to a second pin. Backup the second pin with a small nut or a ball nut and make a couple delicate moves up to the overlap. Belay from the ledge about 15 above the crux. You can scramble down right from here or continue up Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct.
Protection
No pro before the first pin, but the climbing is straight forward. I'm 5'8" and have no trouble clipping the first pin from a good stance, but some partners have said this is harder if shorter. I used a ball nut to back up the pin at the crux. Small nuts may work there too (see comments below).
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