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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA: Jim McCarthy & Jack Hansen - 1959
FFA: Dick Williams - 1966
Page Views: 1,889 total, 13/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Turdland is a great face climb just left of Never Never Land. It begins on a large pillar of rock that separates the Never Never Land area from climbs like Balrog and Commando Rave.

Curiously, the book rates it at 5.10d, but it seems highly contrived to do this route at that grade -- the natural course will take you up much easier rock -- even still the wall is steep and the climbing (and protection) is continuously interesting. A few bolts protect the upper face.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Photos

The bolts have been replaced on this route, so there should be no worries. Sep 28, 2016
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
I've always gone straight up at the last bolt. It is a really fun, exposed move, that doesn't seem contrived to me since it is more direct. Its well protected assuming that old bolt is good..... Apr 26, 2013
paulmadry
  5.10c
paulmadry  
  5.10c
The direct variation (as described in guidebook) is a stiff 5.9, I do agree (unless you are quite short). But do not expect 5.9 at the upper crux. If you go straight up at overhang ( passing the last bolt a foot or so to your right) it is a hard ten (guidebook rates it 5.10d - why not). Pro is there, no worries. Aug 1, 2010
Tim Schafstall
  5.9 PG13
Tim Schafstall  
  5.9 PG13
Gotta agree with Ivan, the contrived 5.10d variation is neither fun nor the logical way to go.

Following the logical path this is a superb 5.9 climb with gear just when you want it. Move after move of fun. Apr 2, 2008
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
There's a "direct" variation where you climb straight up at the last bolt that's 10 something. I did it once and thought it was not that hard nor that interesting. The standard way is to traverse right past the bolt and then up at 5.9. Dick has apparently incorporated the variation as the official way to do the route and hence the upgrading. Nov 18, 2006
Mr. Malloc
  5.9 PG13
Mr. Malloc  
  5.9 PG13
You would have to work REALLY hard to make this a 5.10d. Actually, it is a stiff 5.9. The protection is good, but it don't always look good...so screw your head on straight first. Nov 17, 2006