Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA: Jim McCarthy & Jack Hansen - 1959FFA: Dick Williams - 1966
Page Views: 2,013 total · 13/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Turdland is a great face climb just left of Never Never Land. It begins on a large pillar of rock that separates the Never Never Land area from climbs like Balrog and Commando Rave.

Curiously, the book rates it at 5.10d, but it seems highly contrived to do this route at that grade - the natural course will take you up much easier rock - even still the wall is steep and the climbing (and protection) is continuously interesting. A few bolts protect the upper face.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Photos

Mr. Malloc
  5.9 PG13
Mr. Malloc  
  5.9 PG13
You would have to work REALLY hard to make this a 5.10d. Actually, it is a stiff 5.9. The protection is good, but it don't always look good...so screw your head on straight first. Nov 17, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
There's a "direct" variation where you climb straight up at the last bolt that's 10 something. I did it once and thought it was not that hard nor that interesting. The standard way is to traverse right past the bolt and then up at 5.9. Dick has apparently incorporated the variation as the official way to do the route and hence the upgrading. Nov 18, 2006
Tim Schafstall
  5.9 PG13
Tim Schafstall  
  5.9 PG13
Gotta agree with Ivan, the contrived 5.10d variation is neither fun nor the logical way to go.

Following the logical path this is a superb 5.9 climb with gear just when you want it. Move after move of fun. Apr 2, 2008
paulmadry
  5.10c
paulmadry  
  5.10c
The direct variation (as described in guidebook) is a stiff 5.9, I do agree (unless you are quite short). But do not expect 5.9 at the upper crux. If you go straight up at overhang ( passing the last bolt a foot or so to your right) it is a hard ten (guidebook rates it 5.10d - why not). Pro is there, no worries. Aug 1, 2010
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
I've always gone straight up at the last bolt. It is a really fun, exposed move, that doesn't seem contrived to me since it is more direct. Its well protected assuming that old bolt is good..... Apr 26, 2013
The bolts have been replaced on this route, so there should be no worries. Sep 28, 2016