Type: Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches
FA: 1950's
Page Views: 1,759 total · 23/month
Shared By: Paul Deagle on Nov 14, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Good first pitch for teaching new people to climb. The second and third pitchs were actually pretty fun. If you are in the area like I was, give it a go.

Pitch 1 5.0 PG Climb alcove, passing large tree on the right, continue up to the top, sharing belay ledge with Middle Earth's (100 ft).

Pitch 2 5.1 PG Diagonal up on ledges, then up (hollow) face to GT Ledge, again belay at a pine tree (80 ft).

Pitch 3 5.2 PG. Per the Dick Williams guide, "Climb corner for 30ft, passing oak tree to ledge. Traverse left for 10 ft, moving up and left to narrow ledge. From left side of ledge, diagnol up left (40 ft of 4th class runout on 4th class slab) to grassy ledge below short right facing corner". (100 ft) I'm not sure if this is what I did. I think it was but I don't believe the route gets climbed that much so I found a lot of lichen.

Location

Look for the next major crack system about 50' right of Middle Earth. To descend, rap down Middle Earth.

Protection

Standard gunks rack. Aliens helpful as always.

Photos

JSH

JSH    
While it's a good route for a new 2nd, it's NOT a good route for a new leader. As a well-experienced leader needing a vertical nap, I was simultaneously sleepy and horrified on this route -- very sparse pro. But very easy. Just don't fall. Apr 8, 2013
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
 
You have to traverse quite far left on P3 after climbing the left-facing corner. Otherwise, you end up on P3 of Snowpatch which has a 5.5 PG crux at the left end of the big overhang. The picture in the back of the Grey Dick is helpful. Jun 21, 2015
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.4 PG13
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.4 PG13
Well said JSH.

Pitch 1 is easy to follow, Pitch 2 wanders up right to a hollowish wall, then straight up a couple short faces. You'll see the left facing corner start of pitch 3 a few feet left above the last face. You'll need to cross a dirty slope (this is the GT ledge) with plenty of loose rock (if you actually check what's there) to the base of the corner. Gear is not the greatest. Yellow alien, #3 and #4 C4 were the best placements I could find, and only the yellow alien was bomber. A few feet below on the ledge is a decent tree I'd probably opt to use next time (there won't be a next time).

The final pitch (3) has a bouldery start. You can work your way up to just below the 5.5 PG section of Snowpatch and head left 30 feet to the short (clean) corner with the tree growing right on top of it. I found the corner with the tree was, shall we say, not "5.2"? Maybe only a grade or two harder(?).

The route is worth doing if you want to sneak in an adventure on a busy day. But I would caution any new leaders to hop on this as it's really a Gunks 5.2 for the 5.7 leader. Committing moves, at times sparse gear, and half the holds need a good raking. It's fun in a perverse way. Like off-width climbing. Oct 23, 2016