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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim McCarthy and Patrick Cordier, 1971. FFA: Scott Stewart and Rich Romano, 1973.
Page Views: 1,949 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Oct 19, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

A slightly harder companion to Never Never Land.

Climb a very thin face with very polished feet plugging in very tiny gear where you can and clipping the only bolt on the route (crux; don't fall before clipping!), continue up more very thin climbing until the holds get bigger and the angle eases off.

Location

Located about 8-10 minutes from the East Trapps connector trail, just right of Never Never Land.

Protection

Tiny cams, nuts and one bolt. Ring bolts at the top.

Photos

SethG  
I think this is a great climb and very safe if you shimmy up the tree and sling it first, which is easy to do! Then, once you get to the bolt, you have to make a couple of moves above the bolt so it is exciting but not unsafe IMHO. Then you get bomber gear and it is PG the rest of the way, as Dick says in the book. I enjoyed the crux climbing more than NNL. I thought it was no more difficult than NNL and more enjoyable because J'Accuse isn't so polished and greasy. Oct 10, 2016
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
 
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
 
Not as good as NNL but still a great climb and worth doing. The start is sketchy, I tried to commit w/o the tree but ended up slinging it and back-cleaning. The last 30 feet are fun but I think a better option is to traverse left to NNL and finish on that, way more exciting. Oct 13, 2013
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b PG13
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b PG13
I always shimmy up the skinny tree and sling it, then come down and do the climb. There used to be a piton up and right from the bolt in the grass tufts. This piton had a crack down the middle, lots of people clipped it but few noticed the fracture. This section takes an assortment of .4-.75 cams. Mar 31, 2011
I have not climbed any of those routes on that wall this season, however there always was a tree directly behind the route. You can stem your way up a bit and sling the tree. This would keep you off of the ground should be fall before the bolt. I did this the first time that I led the route years back, but have not used the tree on subsequent leads. The route is a bit heady, but it is one of those where you won't get pumped, you just need to take your time and as long as you are climbing at that level the route should go without any trouble. That being said, since I have had kids I am far less willing to take risks like that with no pro right off the deck. If you are just getting into 5.10 then this certainly not one to try leading. Nov 8, 2010
JSH

JSH    
Nope, no piton. Even more oddly, the Grey Dick mentions a tree to be slung, in the intro text ...

Edit add: I've been corrected about the tree (see pic)! Nov 8, 2010
Anthony Baraff
Paris, France
  5.10b PG13
Anthony Baraff   Paris, France
  5.10b PG13
The Grey Guide suggests that there is a piton somewhere above the bolt. As of this past weekend 10/23/2010 there was none to be found. There are some challenging moves above the bolt (including several with no hands) until you get to the next spot where you can place any gear which makes the first 30 feet of the route very intimidating. Be sure to get gear before the bolt too. Oct 25, 2010

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