Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim McCarthy and Patrick Cordier, 1971. FFA: Scott Stewart and Rich Romano, 1973.
Page Views: 2,137 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Oct 19, 2007
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You & This Route

37 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details


A slightly harder companion to Never Never Land.

Climb a very thin face with very polished feet plugging in very tiny gear where you can and clipping the only bolt on the route (crux; don't fall before clipping!), continue up more very thin climbing until the holds get bigger and the angle eases off.


Located about 8-10 minutes from the East Trapps connector trail, just right of Never Never Land.


Tiny cams, nuts and one bolt. Belay at the Never Never Land anchor.


Anthony Baraff
Paris, France
  5.10b PG13
Anthony Baraff   Paris, France
  5.10b PG13
The Grey Guide suggests that there is a piton somewhere above the bolt. As of this past weekend 10/23/2010 there was none to be found. There are some challenging moves above the bolt (including several with no hands) until you get to the next spot where you can place any gear which makes the first 30 feet of the route very intimidating. Be sure to get gear before the bolt too. Oct 25, 2010

Nope, no piton. Even more oddly, the Grey Dick mentions a tree to be slung, in the intro text ...

Edit add: I've been corrected about the tree (see pic)! Nov 8, 2010
I have not climbed any of those routes on that wall this season, however there always was a tree directly behind the route. You can stem your way up a bit and sling the tree. This would keep you off of the ground should be fall before the bolt. I did this the first time that I led the route years back, but have not used the tree on subsequent leads. The route is a bit heady, but it is one of those where you won't get pumped, you just need to take your time and as long as you are climbing at that level the route should go without any trouble. That being said, since I have had kids I am far less willing to take risks like that with no pro right off the deck. If you are just getting into 5.10 then this certainly not one to try leading. Nov 8, 2010
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b PG13
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10b PG13
I always shimmy up the skinny tree and sling it, then come down and do the climb. There used to be a piton up and right from the bolt in the grass tufts. This piton had a crack down the middle, lots of people clipped it but few noticed the fracture. This section takes an assortment of .4-.75 cams. Mar 31, 2011
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
Not as good as NNL but still a great climb and worth doing. The start is sketchy, I tried to commit w/o the tree but ended up slinging it and back-cleaning. The last 30 feet are fun but I think a better option is to traverse left to NNL and finish on that, way more exciting. Oct 13, 2013
I think this is a great climb and very safe if you shimmy up the tree and sling it first, which is easy to do! Then, once you get to the bolt, you have to make a couple of moves above the bolt so it is exciting but not unsafe IMHO. Then you get bomber gear and it is PG the rest of the way, as Dick says in the book. I enjoyed the crux climbing more than NNL. I thought it was no more difficult than NNL and more enjoyable because J'Accuse isn't so polished and greasy. Oct 10, 2016
An alternative to slinging the tree is placing a Yellow alien or equivalent in the horizontal about 4-5 feet below the bolt. The cam is bomb proof and protects a stiff move up to clip the bolt, but there is a very specific place in the crack that it fits. That being said the moves to get to the horizontal are not trivial and I suggest you being solid at the grade if you choose to do this. Apr 24, 2018
Simeon d
Phila, PA
Simeon d   Phila, PA
A bold lead if you're climbing it ground-up without using the worthless tree. There is a good piece of gear in a horizontal 10 ft off the ground. This was my most proud send of the grade on the Preserve. I thought the mental crux was climbing above the bolt to the next piece of gear. Ground fall potential is real. A good belayer is necessary. It's a bold line for the grade. I would not do it again. Nov 30, 2018