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Elevation: 1,088 ft 332 m
GPS: 41.74267, -74.18075
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 128,033 total · 795/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Feb 26, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

Along the Cliff Suggest change

last area: Guide's Wall | next area: Arrow Wall to CCK

Description Suggest change

Major Features: This area is really a collection of smaller areas, with routes mostly 5.6 and above (except for Red's Ruin, which - trust me on this - you really don't want to climb). Don't miss: Raunchy, V-3, Cakewalk, Never Never Land, Absurdland, Wisecrack, Middle Earth, Sente, or Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. In addition, you can use one of several routes to get to the GT ledge at Middle Earth, then stay up there and climb several neighboring third pitches while enjoying the view.

We start this area at the Mantle Block: a 50-foot tall block leaning against the main cliff, with a 4' roof across its front face, home to the routes Dis Mantel and Dat Mantel, which must be pronounced, even in your head, with a German accent, even though you don't absolutely have to mantle them on ascent.

The northern extent of this area is marked by the "height of land" as the trail rises just after the Sente / Thin Slabs area; past Snake, just past the height of land, you'll find the Arrow wall and area.

Approach: For routes between the Mantle block and Cakewalk or so, use the
trail. For the Middle Earth and Thin Slabs areas, follow
.

Descent: Descend from the cliff top is possible for routes near Middle Earth via 3 single-rope rappels from bolt anchors. The clifftop anchor is next to the pine tree at the top of Middle Earth. And please be careful of climbers below - it's a very popular area.
V-3 has a pair of bolts above its first pitch, as do Cakewalk and Never Never Land.
From the top of Thin Slabs, heading north to the Arrow bolted rappel line is also a close-by option, and an easier way to avoid ascending parties.

48 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: g. V3 - Middle Earth Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at V3 - Middle Earth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 313
Middle Earth
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 136
Wisecrack
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 367
V-3
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 109
Alley Oop
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 158
Cakewalk
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 221
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 176
Raunchy
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 292
Absurdland
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 97
Dry Heaves
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 185
Sente
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 64
Commando Rave
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 253
Never Never Land
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 82
Balrog
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 26
Cheap Thrills
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
 14
Bullfrog
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Middle Earth
 313
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Wisecrack
 136
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
V-3
 367
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Alley Oop
 109
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Cakewalk
 158
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct
 221
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Raunchy
 176
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Absurdland
 292
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Dry Heaves
 97
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Sente
 185
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Commando Rave
 64
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Never Never Land
 253
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Balrog
 82
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Cheap Thrills
 26
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Bullfrog
 14
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in V3 - Middle Earth »

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