Elevation: 1,088 ft
GPS: 41.743, -74.181 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 60,843 total · 633/month
Shared By: JSH on Feb 26, 2011 with updates from Kurtz and 1 other
Admins: JSH
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Along the Cliff

last area: Guide's Wall | next area: Arrow Wall to CCK

Description

Major Features: This area is really a collection of smaller areas, with routes mostly 5.6 and above (except for Red's Ruin, which - trust me on this - you really don't want to climb). Don't miss: Raunchy, V-3, Cakewalk, Never Never Land, Absurdland, Wisecrack, Middle Earth, Sente, or Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. In addition, you can use one of several routes to get to the GT ledge at Middle Earth, then stay up there and climb several neighboring third pitches while enjoying the view.

We start this area at the Mantle Block: a 50-foot tall block leaning against the main cliff, with a 4' roof across its front face, home to the routes Dis Mantel and Dat Mantel, which must be pronounced, even in your head, with a German accent, even though you don't absolutely have to mantle them on ascent.

The northern extent of this area is marked by the "height of land" as the trail rises just after the Sente / Thin Slabs area; past Snake, just past the height of land, you'll find the Arrow wall and area.

Approach: For routes between the Mantle block and Cakewalk or so, use the
V-3 approach trail (note crossed dead trees on left). The next blazed trail is [[Thin Slabs]]110455096 trail. For the Middle Earth and Thin Slabs areas, follow
Thin Slabs approach trail. The next trail is [[Arrow]]110686713 .

Descent: Descend from the cliff top is possible for routes near Middle Earth via 3 single-rope rappels from bolt anchors. The clifftop anchor is next to the pine tree at the top of Middle Earth. And please be careful of climbers below - it's a very popular area.
V-3 has a pair of bolts above its first pitch, as do Cakewalk and Never Never Land.
From the top of Thin Slabs, heading north to the Arrow bolted rappel line is also a close-by option, and an easier way to avoid ascending parties.

43 Total Climbs

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Location: g. V3 - Middle Earth Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at V3 - Middle Earth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 91
Wisecrack
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 225
Middle Earth
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 262
V-3
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 88
Alley Oop
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 119
Cakewalk
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 157
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 204
Absurdland
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 113
Raunchy
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 60
Wonderland
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 73
Dry Heaves
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 129
Sente
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 59
Triangle
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 50
Gory Thumb
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 167
Never Never Land
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 59
Balrog
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wisecrack
 91
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Middle Earth
 225
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
V-3
 262
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Alley Oop
 88
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Cakewalk
 119
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct
 157
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Absurdland
 204
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Raunchy
 113
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Wonderland
 60
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Dry Heaves
 73
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Sente
 129
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Triangle
 59
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Gory Thumb
 50
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Never Never Land
 167
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Balrog
 59
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in V3 - Middle Earth »

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