V3 - Middle Earth Rock Climbing
Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth
|Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X|
|Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13|
|Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X|
|Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X|
|Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|GPS:||41.743, -74.181 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||JSH on Feb 26, 2011|
Along the Clifflast area: Guide's Wall | next area: Arrow Wall to CCK
DescriptionMajor Features: This area is really a collection of smaller areas, with routes mostly 5.6 and above (except for Red's Ruin, which - trust me on this - you really don't want to climb). Don't miss: Raunchy, V-3, Cakewalk, Never Never Land, Absurdland, Wisecrack, Middle Earth, Sente, or Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. In addition, you can use one of several routes to get to the GT ledge at Middle Earth, then stay up there and climb several neighboring third pitches while enjoying the view.
We start this area at the Mantle Block: a 50-foot tall block leaning against the main cliff, with a 4' roof across its front face, home to the routes Dis Mantel and Dat Mantel, which must be pronounced, even in your head, with a German accent, even though you don't absolutely have to mantle them on ascent.
The northern extent of this area is marked by the "height of land" as the trail rises just after the Sente / Thin Slabs area; past Snake, just past the height of land, you'll find the Arrow wall and area.
Approach: For routes between the Mantle block and Cakewalk or so, use the trail. For the Middle Earth and Thin Slabs areas, follow .
Descent: In this area, mostly by trees at individual routes. Descend from the cliff top is possible for routes near Middle Earth via 3 single-rope rappels from bolt anchors. The clifftop anchor is next to the pine tree at the top of Middle Earth. And please be careful of climbers below - it's a very popular area.
V-3 has a pair of bolts above its first pitch, as do Cakewalk and Never Never Land.
From the top of Thin Slabs, heading north to the Arrow bolted rappel line is also a close-by option, and an easier way to avoid ascending parties.
Classic Climbing Routes at g. V3 - Middle Earth
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season