Type: Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dick Williams, Roy Kligfield, Al Rubin, Ivan Rezucha (1975)
Page Views: 2,962 total · 18/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 22, 2008
Admins: RJ B, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

This is a really nice pitch, with nice moves in the lower crack and some cool pebble-pulling at the crux. More climbing can be had by beginning at the rightmost edge of the cliff bottom, as described in Gory Thumb. Most people TR P1 after leading Raunchy. P2 is rarely climbed, but is worth doing if you're comfy on Gunks 5.10.

Ivan Rezucha: I was walking along the base of the Trapps when Roy Kligfield called down and asked me to join the FA, saying that they were going for the record of most people on a first ascent.

P1 - (5.8 PG) Begin on the blank face as for Raunchy and climb up to the ledge and tree at 10 feet (or go up and left to access the ledge and traverse right to the right edge). Alternatively, start from the right-facing corner below (Gory Thumb) up to the same ledge.

From the right edge of the ledge, go up and right to an obvious thin crack in the middle of the nice white face. Climb the crack (small wires) and continue up the face getting any gear possible to a ledge below a pebbly face. Climb the face using the exposed pebbles, making cool pinch moves, up to a large ledge. Traverse left to the belay bolts.

P2 - Climb the face to a bolt, then up a left- facing corner. Move around right to a stance below a face and fixed pin. Move up the face (crux, scary) to easier climbing, then continue straight up to the GT ledge and a bolted belay/rap station.

Location

On the blank face adjacent to Raunchy, about 50 feet past the obvious slumped "Mantle" block of Dis-Mantel.

Protection

Standard Gunks Rack + small wires.

Photos