Type: Trad, 230 ft
FA: Paul Trapini, Joe Bridges, Faith Aubin 82
Page Views: 1,287 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Sep 1, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

15 Opinions

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It's fairly likely that you'll find this route free, even on a busy weekend... Even though the gear is not perfect, and you may be cleaning piles of pine needles from the holds, there is some fun climbing to be had on this one.

Pitch 1: Climb a bulge just left of the Middle Earth crack. Head straight up, aiming for a small left arching/facing corner. Gain jugs at the top of this little corner and traverse right to a break in the little overhang. Pass a little tree on the right, and when you reach the ledge you can step right to the Middle Earth bolted station. This pitch is 5.7 and makes a fun climb in itself.

Pitch 2: As for Middle Earth; ~80 feet of easy low angle ledges and horizontals up to the Grand Traverse ledge.

Pitch 3: Start a little right of the last pitch Wisecrack. Work up a poorly protected face to the overhang. Pass the overhang at a little right-facing corner (mid way between where Wisecrack and Bombs Away Dream Baby cross the overhang) and up to the top.


Right of Wonderland, and just left of Middle Earth. Rap the Middle Earth bolted rappel route.


Standard rack, small broom



Mark, can you be more specific about *which* right-facing corner this route climbs off the GT? So far as I know, it's Wisecrack on the left, next-right is Bombs Away, then comes Middle Earth's right-facing corner. Where does Faithful Journey fit in there?

It might be height, and I may have been tired, but I just about could not get off the ground here at all on P1, and 5.7 should be well within my abilities. Sep 2, 2010
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
Opening moves for about 20 feet are balancy and very committing on lead. But it's still 5.7

Great single pitch option. Felt it was overall more worthwhile than Wonderland. Several great, thin moves. Apr 30, 2012
Tough first few moves... thin feet and tough finger-side pull with right hand. After that, better, but still committing for a 5.7 Oct 31, 2015
With the anchor (bolts) atop P1 of Middle Earth now located several feet further left, I predict more folks will take a quick TR lap on this first pitch. And here's a suggestion - once you've done that, climb a line BETWEEN FJ and ME. Improbable but very satisfying smeary face climbing, felt 5.9ish. The rules are "if you used it to climb either of the other routes, you can't touch it".

May 2016 adding - several large (2-3 ft) blocks have come down from immediately below the (new) bolts on the GT ledge that serve Middle Earth and the other climbs in that vicinity. Hopefully they were dropped purposefully/safely. But the thing is - there's now a messy dirt slope where the blocks used to be, and climbing through this is super insecure. It will wash off eventually, but as it does there are sure to be several smaller bits of rock that find their way downward. 3 golf ball size rocks came down while we were on Bombs Away today. YMMV but I'd suggest avoiding all these climbs on busy days for the next several months. If you want to see one of the blocks, it's embedded in the dirt at the base, just R of Bombs Away. I'd guess 300-400 pounds. Dec 17, 2015
We noticed today that the bolts have been removed from the GT Ledge at Wise Crack/Bombs Away/Middle Earth. They have also been removed from the top of the route (slings and rings are back on the pine tree). I'm 100% in favor of removing those poorly placed bolts on the GTL. As I posted earlier this year, their location to the left of ME's 2nd pitch effectively routes the rope and climbers across a slew of deadly loose blocks, a few of which have already been dislodged. The anchor bolts at the top of the route are a different story however. They "protected" the tree from sling wear, and folks will continue to rap from there in their absence. Sep 20, 2016
Another observation on FJ's 3rd pitch - the "horn" (Swain's guidebook) that signaled where to pull the overhang on this route has broken off some time ago. I kind of suspected it as I looked up there on previous visits. But I climbed it today and confirmed that that very useful feature is indeed no longer there. A minor point perhaps; the heavy lichen above the move suggests this pitch doesn't see a lot of traffic. The move is still pretty much that same sequence but IMO it's a half grade harder than it used to be. Sep 20, 2016