Type: Trad, 230 ft (70 m)
FA: Paul Trapini, Joe Bridges, Faith Aubin 82
Page Views: 1,826 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Sep 1, 2010
Admins: RJ B, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details


It's fairly likely that you'll find this route free, even on a busy weekend... Even though the gear is not perfect, and you may be cleaning piles of pine needles from the holds, there is some fun climbing to be had on this one.

Pitch 1: Climb a bulge just left of the Middle Earth crack. Head straight up, aiming for a small left arching/facing corner. Gain jugs at the top of this little corner and traverse right to a break in the little overhang. Pass a little tree on the right, and when you reach the ledge you can step right to the Middle Earth bolted station. This pitch is 5.7 and makes a fun climb in itself.

Pitch 2: As for Middle Earth; ~80 feet of easy low angle ledges and horizontals up to the Grand Traverse ledge.

Pitch 3: Start a little right of the last pitch Wisecrack. Work up a poorly protected face to the overhang. Pass the overhang at a little right-facing corner (mid way between where Wisecrack and Bombs Away Dream Baby cross the overhang) and up to the top.


Right of Wonderland, and just left of Middle Earth. Rap the Middle Earth bolted rappel route.


Standard rack, small broom