Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jim McCarthy and John Hudson, 1963
Page Views: 1,955 total · 13/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 17, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

Begin fifty feet left of Balrog. Head up a weakness (same start as Country Roads, which continues through the roof via a crack), then traverse right for 30 feet and very little gear to another weakness in the roof. Past the roof here and up to a bolt anchor.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Went up on this September '77. Made mistake Blue Book cautioned against: "Despite bravado suggested by name, it's wise to think this through before attacking." I bolted over first roof and onto the face...onto the face...no hand holds. "Eyyagghhh!" 15-footer onto ancient pin. Ass dangling just above an angular boulder. "Trusty rusty" indeed. I haven't been back. Feb 19, 2008
There really is not much to this climb, but the crux is about 5 moves and really fun. There is a short vertical section to a long, easy, unprotected traverse, then the fun begins. Oct 2, 2008
Kalil Oldham
Brooklyn, NY
 
Kalil Oldham   Brooklyn, NY
 
Committing through the crux. 75 or 80 feet at most. Sep 15, 2013
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
Very fun single pitch that is getting a lot more traffic now that the Gunks app gives it 3 stars. Pin looks pretty good, you then make one reachy pumpy move and can slam in a good mid-size cam before safely pulling over/around the roof, which will avoid the 15 footer Joel experienced in 77.

Last move while in sight of the chains is weird and felt like the crux to me but the cam is at your waist. Nov 14, 2016
Adam Gellman
Jersey City/Burlington VT
 
Adam Gellman   Jersey City/Burlington VT
 
Surprisingly fun. Definitely a worthwhile climb! Feb 19, 2017
bridge
Brooklyn, NY
 
bridge   Brooklyn, NY
 
Repeated Joe's experience (albeit with 2 solid cams above the pin)...

I agree with the PG13 rating -- there's a solid 5.7/5.8 move with no protection in the initial vertical section (only possible pro is behind the loosest of flakes, and the 1st piece is too low to do any good at this point). Because the next satisfactory piece is so far along the traverse, this move is unprotected for the follower as well. Apr 15, 2018
Simeon d
Phila, PA
Simeon d   Phila, PA
Short but fun. Very good gear, even if pin wasn't there. Bolted anchor now makes it easy to climb. Note: a directional above the first 20 ft of 5.8 climbing is very necessary if the second falls before getting to the ledge. The traverse is easy but does not offer much gear. Nov 30, 2018