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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth
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Absurdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beyond the Fringe aka Unappealing Ceiling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Blunderbus T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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City Streets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Deep Chills T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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HELP! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Monumantel T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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On Any Monday T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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PLEH! T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smegma Garden and Pigeon T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Sort of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Unappealing Creamy Feeling T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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V7 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Weber Line T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Wild Horses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yenta T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 41.74267, -74.18075 |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy and John Hudson, 1963 |
| Page Views: | 3,325 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Feb 17, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
Begin fifty feet left of Balrog. Head up a weakness (same start as Country Roads, which continues through the roof via a crack), then traverse right for 30 feet and very little gear to another weakness in the roof. Past the roof here and up to a bolt anchor.
Some info on the Direct Version of Commando Rave. BETA FOLLOWS.
Added an image for clarity.
There is two ways to go, one goes slight left, and up via supposed R rated moves
and one goes slight right via the "Nipple Scratching" start of Hardon Collider.
Roughly one or two moves of 10d/5.11- gets you on better holds. One more 5.9 move to get established on ledge below the finish of Commando Rave. These last moves are R rated but on good holds and rock.
Both versions seem equal in grade ( gunks apps has the direct left line TR at 5.11a ) the important difference here is that the right line option that we did takes gear until you are done with the hard moves
Gear from .2 down to the smallest green Z4 - 000 fit well.
Both versions straightens the line and avoids the long traverse and the shared start with City Streets.
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