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Routes in g. V3 - Middle Earth

Absurdland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alley Oop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Badfinger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Balrog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beyond the Fringe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Blunderbus T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bullfrog T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Cakewalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheap Thrills T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
City Streets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Commando Rave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Country Roads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Dat-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dis-Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Heaves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faithful Journey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Galactic Hitchhikers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Gory Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
J'accuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Large Hardon Collider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Never Never Land T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Never Say Never T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Nevermore T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
On Any Monday T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Raunchy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red's Ruin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Sente T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Set my bow in the cloud T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A3+ X
Sheep Thrills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Snowpatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Talus of Powder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
V-3 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wild Horses T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Wisecrack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yenta TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus, and Stan Gross, 1956
Page Views: 4,255 total, 32/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jan 13, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


79 Opinions

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Description

P1 (5.7, 80 ft) Climb the thin face (crux) right of Dry Heaves to a small stance below a shallow, right-facing corner about half way between the ground the roof. There is good gear at the stance, but not much below it (Dick Williams' guide says that the FA party used a three-man shoulder stand at what we now call a "bouldery start"). Continue to the right-facing corner, and then work up and left to the roof just right of the blocky corner. Pull through the roof (great protection, big holds) and belay at a pair of bolts just above and left of the roof.

P2 (5.4, 100 ft) A pretty typical 2nd pitch for this part of the Trapps. From the bolts, climb up and right to the first of two left-facing corners. Follow the corners to the ledge above with a small tree. Easy, low-angle climbing on big holds.

To descend, carefully walk left around the corner to a large tree with rappel slings and rap rings on it. Rap down to the P1 belay bolts (angle right) with a single rope. A second rappel from the P1 bolts takes you back to the base of the climb.

Location

Located approximately 12 minutes down the Carriage Road from the Uberfall area (about 2 or 3 minutes past Madame G, and about 8 minutes past the East Trapps Connector trail). Look for a large boulder beneath a low roof with a right-facing corner leading up to the left side. Alley Oop starts behind the boulder and right of the corner.

Protection

Standard rack. Small gear helps protect the initial moves. Two-bolt anchor at the top of P1, gear at the top of P2. Rap from a large tree left of P2.
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
  5.7 PG13
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
  5.7 PG13
Led this today, all the way to the top. There are no longer any rappel anchors on any trees, and based on the amount of lichen and plant debris as well and lush vegetation (grasses, bushes, trees..), the upper pitches are rarely climbed. From the ledge with the tree that probably once had a rap anchor, there is a faint trail to the right that leads through the bushes to more easy climbing.

If you do pitch 2 and beyond, realize that it involves bushwhacking through some vegetation and branches, and to get down you'll need to go all the way to the top and walk to another rappel line- or leave some gear at one of the trees. To get to the top feels more like two pitches, but you can make it most of the way in one long pitch, leaving just one short slabby scramble at the top, which you can probably do unroped.

The upper pitches are kinda fun, but messy and probably not worth the hassle. If you do them, bring lots of long runners, and maybe some webbing and a rap ring in case you change your mind halfway through.. Aug 26, 2017
SethG  
Yellow Alien as mentioned in the guidebook. Pocket seems too shallow but it locks in there like magic. Apr 11, 2016
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+ PG13
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+ PG13
First pitch crux is right off the ground with no gear so be solid at the grade. Great way to set up Cheap Thrills on toprope. Apr 9, 2016
john2.71
Montclair, NJ
john2.71   Montclair, NJ
The P2 as described above (and drawn on the photo) is Sheep Thrills, not Alley Oop. According to Dick Williams, Sheep Thrills goes right to the blocky corner system, while Alley Oop goes up and *left* on 5.4, then a short P3 goes straight up at 5.6. Aug 16, 2015
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
When rapping P2, the chains at the top of P1 are quite far to the right! The ends of your 60m rope will just reach another rapp station on a pine tree growing out of the cliff. You can rapp again from this tree (traversing right) back the start. May 10, 2015
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.7+ PG13
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.7+ PG13
Opening moves are thin and on the serious side of 5.7. The runout start is not long enough to rate R, but because of the blocky terrain below, it puts the leader in a no fall zone right away. If you miss a move, you will hurt yourself. Sep 8, 2014
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
First pitch is fun and worth doing. Rings at top. Crux at ground much easier if you are taller. Second pitch if blah. Third pitch definitely not worth doing as the only descent option visible was a rusty bolt on an ancient cordelette on a small tree. Aug 1, 2012
Steve Moulding
New York
  5.7+
Steve Moulding   New York
  5.7+
Though I only led P1 (we then rapped off), I really liked this climb. Technically the hardest part was the start but it was certainly fun all the way up P1 with some nice steep exposure moving up to and through the roof. Jun 8, 2012
divnamite
New York, NY
  5.7 PG13
divnamite   New York, NY
  5.7 PG13
Good and fun climb, the crux is really the start, so don't blow it. It's not as bad as it looks. The roof is fun and well protected. Go ahead and do it. Nov 27, 2009