Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus, and Stan Gross, 1956
Page Views: 5,469 total · 31/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jan 13, 2007
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


101 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

P1 (5.7, 80 ft) Climb the thin face (crux) right of Dry Heaves to a small stance below a shallow, right-facing corner about half way between the ground the roof. There is good gear at the stance, but not much below it (Dick Williams' guide says that the FA party used a three-man shoulder stand at what we now call a "bouldery start"). Continue to the right-facing corner, and then work up and left to the roof just right of the blocky corner. Pull through the roof (great protection, big holds) and belay at a pair of bolts just above and left of the roof.

P2 (5.4, 100 ft) A pretty typical 2nd pitch for this part of the Trapps. From the bolts, climb up and right to the first of two left-facing corners. Follow the corners to the ledge above with a small tree. Easy, low-angle climbing on big holds.

To descend, carefully walk left around the corner to a large tree with rappel slings and rap rings on it. Rap down to the P1 belay bolts (angle right) with a single rope. A second rappel from the P1 bolts takes you back to the base of the climb.

Location

Located approximately 12 minutes down the Carriage Road from the Uberfall area (about 2 or 3 minutes past Madame G, and about 8 minutes past the East Trapps Connector trail). Look for a large boulder beneath a low roof with a right-facing corner leading up to the left side. Alley Oop starts behind the boulder and right of the corner.

Protection

Standard rack. Small gear helps protect the initial moves. Two-bolt anchor at the top of P1, gear at the top of P2. Rap from a large tree left of P2.

Photos